Direction I Should Go With My Build?

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by ry94stang50, Aug 26, 2013.

  1. ry94stang50

    ry94stang50 Member

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    Is the eco short block the one that's $999? And would it be a better optu on then rebuilding my engine? I thought about that because I can kinda build that motor over time and drop it in here when its finished...if it is that cheap I can pick that up prettt soon...
     
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  2. ry94stang50

    ry94stang50 Member

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    Atleast at that point I would be half way there lol ill buy an engine stand sace up for the top end kit...when its finished what kind of power would the eco short block matched with the trick flow top end kit put out? And would it be reliable enough to be a daily driver? I want a dd woth a good amount of power but want to keep the overall cost around 4-5 grand....and add a power adder down the road for a little more power....would love something around 425hp to the wheels
     
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  3. 90lxwhite

    90lxwhite I'm kind of a She-Man

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    Yeah I'm talking bout the $999 short block. It doesn't come with forged internals but neither do ours stock either I don't believe. I'm no expert but w that shorty and the trickflow top end I'd guess you'd be around or a lil over the 300 mark at the tires. People put topend kits on worn motors and make that or abouts so I'm thinking w new parts you'll be good since you know you'll have good compression. As far as being cheaper than rebuilding your own it'd be cheaper than paying someone labor to do it and if you're rebuilding yourself and have never done it you wouldn't have to worry bout operator error when assembling. If you have an engine stand and are just mating a topend to a bottom it should be cake with the only learning curve being a cam install. Now take this w a grain of salt because these are only assumptions but I think I might be right on the money
     
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  4. ry94stang50

    ry94stang50 Member

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    For about 800 $ more I can go the forged route but in reality its probably going to be a long time before I'm even thinking forced induction....so is there anything after a top end kit to make more power other then a supercharger or turbo?
     
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  5. 90lxwhite

    90lxwhite I'm kind of a She-Man

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    N2o2? And I guess bolt on crap, exhaust, tb's n ****...
     
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  6. A5literMan

    A5literMan Mustang Master

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    I'd piece together a h/c/I setup. Used intake and new heads/cam/valvetrain and gaskets etc. and add a nitrous kit when you're at the track or what not. With supporting mods ie. fuel sys and ign. You can make anywhere from 400-500+ HP pretty easily.
     
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  7. 90lxwhite

    90lxwhite I'm kind of a She-Man

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    What would you estimate that setup would cost?
     
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  8. FastDriver

    Mod Dude

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    If you go used, you should be able to do better than this:
    http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/products/Mustang-Top-End-Engine-Kits
    http://static.trickflow.com/global/images/chartsguides/t/tfs dyno k514-360-350 .pdf

    I'd say add another $1k to do a nitrous system right (WOT switch, window switch, Hobbs switch, bottle warmer, electronic valve), though you could definite do a used system cheaper.

    Don't forget additional costs like labor and tuning. You're probably gonna want a few gauges to keep track of everything
     
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  9. 84Ttop

    84Ttop They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
    SN Certified Technician Mod Dude

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    I am always Leary of used nitrous parts... Plates and fogger nozzles are one thing, but I would never buy used solenoids. Who knows what abuse they have seen, whether they have rubber or Teflon plungers if they have ever been rebuilt? Have a used fuel solenoid stick closed or a nitro use solenoid stick open, that money you just saved could go towards a new motor..... Plenty safe if done right, one power adder that you can't really skimp on
     
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  10. 90lxwhite

    90lxwhite I'm kind of a She-Man

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    Ry, I realize you want 500 horse, who doesn't but if you went with the shortblock and topend kit or even pieced together a topend the end result would be a brand new motor. That in my opinion is the more "adult" thing to do. You might not come out wih gobs of power but you'd have reliability and possibly more resale value. While its nice to throw out that I have 500 or 930 horsepower how often are you going to be using all that grunt? This is his daily driver fellas he's probably not going to be turning 7500 rpm on his way to work or to run to the grocery store. So I say get it rebuilt and reliable, 300 rear horse is plenty quick for a daily driven 20 year old primary mode of transportation. Then one day if you get another ride make that one a playtoy go wild put nitrous and beat the hell outta er or whatever but until then play it smart. Get all the bugs worked out i.e. overheating, rebuild the motor, get er back to new again and enjoy er. Nothing worse than a 1000 horsepower sitting in the driveway and walking to work because you blew it up at the track.
     
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  11. 90lxwhite

    90lxwhite I'm kind of a She-Man

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    Nitrous on a daily driver..... Money well spent, get to use it once a week maybe. during season that is.
     
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    Last edited: Aug 27, 2013
  12. A5literMan

    A5literMan Mustang Master

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    I had an 89 lx as my only mode of transportation for 3 years. It had all the bolt ons and a bottle. It never had a problem. And I ran a lot of n2o passes on the weekends at the strip and on the street. (I was young and dumb). Did go through a couple trans but power shifting a stock t-5 with a bottle will do that. My previous post was in response of trying to have a nice streetable setup that can make 400 rwhp fairly cheaply. And I wouldn't buy a used n2o kit. I was saying buy some of the stuff used and some new and I'd have at least new bearings/rings/gaskets etc done. Or the late model restoration short block. It just can be done for under 5k easily and make a crap load of streetable daily power. IMO
     
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  13. A5literMan

    A5literMan Mustang Master

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    Also that's what my present setup is. A used stock longblock which I overhauled,ported the heads with new guides,seals etc. added an e-303 cam(I know it sucks) a used typhoon intake 70mm mas-tb and a NOS kit. It's not a DD but I can drive it anywhere I want and knock out low 12's
     
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  14. ry94stang50

    ry94stang50 Member

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    Definitely not gonna do any NOS I'm gonna do the the setup involving the short block and some type of top end kit as long as I'm at or near 300 rwhp ill be plenty happy with a new 300rwhp engine..and one day ill pick up a jeep after I'm happy with where this build is....then ill rip into this car with a supercharger or nos or both and go all outl....just for ****s and giggles is a coyote swap possible in this 94 gt? I know that motor is well over ten grand...but is it possible I think that would be absolutely sexy.
     
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  15. ry94stang50

    ry94stang50 Member

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    It would prob be a wase of noney especially since the motor would be worth more then the car..
     
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  16. ry94stang50

    ry94stang50 Member

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    N evermind a 412 coyote crate engine is onle 6200 $
     
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  17. 90lxwhite

    90lxwhite I'm kind of a She-Man

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    I read a blog awhile back somewhere where they did a coyote in a fox. They had it running but had all kinds of "bugs" to work out. Might be better "kits" now but I'm not sure. Will a t-5 mate to it?
     
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  18. A5literMan

    A5literMan Mustang Master

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    I looked at a coyote swap as a possibility going forward in my build. They are cool. But for all the $$ you have to spend for all the extras I've decided to go 427w build and make more HP and torque. They are comparable to a well built 331-347 build but more expensive.
     
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  19. ry94stang50

    ry94stang50 Member

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    How much does a decent 331 build cost I would love to add more displacement.
     
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  20. A5literMan

    A5literMan Mustang Master

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    If you're using a stock block setup you can get it done for under 2k if you assemble yourself. And then add your h/c/i,fuel sys,misc xtras. Somewhere around 4-5k total. If you want to build it real well with an aftermarket block and real nice heads etc double that. Remember all the little things add up real quick. A coyote build extras include the computer/wiring harness,special read expensive headers,k member,fuel system,etc. and it will kill a t-5. That swap actually costs more than double the 6200$ price tag of the engine alone. Stock t-5s will not hold up to any power increase if you drive it hard. Their torque rating is only 300 ft lbs. you'll have to budget for a trans upgrade also if you're going to drive them moderately hard(which we all do)
     
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