do it your self & cheap HP
- Thread starter BAHRAINI_STANG
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thats odd...i usually run at least 1/2 a quart extra...as do all of my buddies...
i see the concept your going behind here, but im assuming that if your looking for cheap do it yourself horsepower that your not driving a highly modded car in the first place. your gonna see very minimal gains from this and its just a risk im not willing to take.
cheap, fast, reliable...you can only pick 2
DMAN302
My mom says thanks for the pearl necklace.
Do not decrease oil capactiy....this is not the way to go for power....there are litterally dozens of options for power add and sacraficing engine lubrication is not one of them. You want cheap...bump the timing..pull the codes an ensure the system is up to par, do a complete tune, Go to a nice underdrive pulley swap, electric fan, WEIGHT REDUCTION, maf upgrade, exhaust upgrade...etc.
DMAN302
My mom says thanks for the pearl necklace.
there are no 'new tricks' sacraficing engine lub is not worth 5 hp...good portion of us have been playing with these cars since new...I know I have...there are ways of making power..some good some bad...IMO this is not the way to go. Pull the mill and install a windage tray, hell while your at it swap out the heads 
there you'll find some lost HP
there you'll find some lost HP i can guarantee you that your not gonna find "new tricks" with an engine that has been around as long as the 302...not cheap do at home tricks especially. like i said before....cheap, fast, reliable....you can only choose two
DMAN302
My mom says thanks for the pearl necklace.
In the time it takes from exiting the air inlet tube to passing the TB section and entering into the intake itself there is no sufficient time to truely cool or heat the air just too much velocity.
87ttopstang
Member
DMAN302
My mom says thanks for the pearl necklace.
Now lets think about a liquid or compressed o2 injection system...that would cool the air...hhhmmmm...much like the copressed air used to clean computer key boards....now were talking cooling effect. Possibly use a purge like system ......hit da button at WOT....ah likely wouldn't work 
Now lets think about a liquid or compressed o2 injection system...that would cool the air...hhhmmmm...much like the copressed air used to clean computer key boards....now were talking cooling effect. Possibly use a purge like system ......hit da button at WOT....ah likely wouldn't work
Or you could stick a whole bunch of electronic peltier coolers to the TB. lol
well here's something i HEARD works. by-pass the coolant line going into the throttlebody.... they say it cools your throttlebody, and cooler air means more HP. like i said, i dont know, its just something i heard. try it at your own risk. let me know if it works though
Getting rid of that coolant line doesn't equal cooler air going past the throttle body. It equals all the bleed off heat from the EGR system infects (for lack of a better term) the TB, whereas before, that circulating coolant would've helped move that heat away.
Anyway, Ford didn't design these, or any of their vehicles with some huge HP mods left wide open. If it were possible to remove one bolt, or block off some hose, and gain 50hp, Ford would've done it from the factory.
Removing the air silencer and bumping the timing are about the 2 best free mods you can do to these things.
Remove the air filter. I wouldn't try it myself though
hell, along with that go ahead n remove the doors, hood, hatch, all but the driver seat (driver seat too if your real hard core...you can always sit on a bucket), all the carpet and accessories...you dont need any of that stuff to go fast and its all FREE!!!
Well if you want cheap upgrades then go to the junkyard goodies in this site it will tell you all kinds of cheap things that can be had in the junk yard that will help preformance. but the best thing is ditch the fuel injection and go carb you can do it for about 600 or less put some timing in it and pick up 50+ hp. The runn a mark 8 electric fan set of shortie headers, alummin driver shaft out of ford areo star and some other little tricks some all ready listed (except the 1 quart low)and you cam pick up another few hp but you will be limlted by cam and heads. Or you cna for about 250 with gaskets pull the heads and mill them this will raise compression.
Im not a carb guy, but in this day and age of fuel injection and electronics that has to be the dumbest thing I have ever heard. Not to mention not just 50 horsepower, 50 PLUS horsepower. cough cough BULLcoughSH1T.
I dont know about you but I prefer to climb the technology ladder and not fall down it, which what your stating above would be doing.
fivespeedsteed
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
how do i go about asking for someone to pull codes? who can do this? how much?
also i been thinking about bumping my timing. my friend knows how to do timing and he has a light. what i know its at 12* (or 10*?) and you advance it to 14* initial but what is it advance? thanks.
adding to the real thread: synthetic oil...weight reduction, my interior is out right now becuase of a water leak and i felt a big diff on the highway. heres the junkyard stuff (this is jrichkers)
On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...
Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100-$200 or so to complete the brake upgrade.
94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a $25-$35 flange adapter to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1
95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.
3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$120. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.
Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.
Aluminum driveshaft: (courtesy of shawn13) It needs to be from a 92-93-94 Aerostar AWD and you will need the u-joint, part #353 from NAPA. It should bolt right up after the u-joint swap.
*1.) metal flange adapter
http://www.kustomz.com/cat3.html
Buy the TR70 for $44.95.
also i been thinking about bumping my timing. my friend knows how to do timing and he has a light. what i know its at 12* (or 10*?) and you advance it to 14* initial but what is it advance? thanks.
adding to the real thread: synthetic oil...weight reduction, my interior is out right now becuase of a water leak and i felt a big diff on the highway. heres the junkyard stuff (this is jrichkers)
On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...
Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100-$200 or so to complete the brake upgrade.
94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a $25-$35 flange adapter to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1
95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.
3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$120. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.
Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.
Aluminum driveshaft: (courtesy of shawn13) It needs to be from a 92-93-94 Aerostar AWD and you will need the u-joint, part #353 from NAPA. It should bolt right up after the u-joint swap.
*1.) metal flange adapter
http://www.kustomz.com/cat3.html
Buy the TR70 for $44.95.
