SN95 Does Anyone Use Stage 8 Locking Header Bolts?

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by StangRider1, Nov 29, 2013.

  1. I'm planning to install a set of BBK long-tube headers on my '95, and want to use the best setup so I don't have to retighten them once a month... Stage 8's, or does anyone prefer to use the ARP Stainless bolts with a dab of Locktite on them?
     
  2. Nope.
    Hardware store allen head bolts with lock washers here.
    Never a leak.
     
    mikestang63 likes this.
  3. I use the stage 8 bolts and they work as advertised. A little spendy, but they don't rust like others. Make sure you get them in a 1" length.
     
  4. I use the Stage 8s. On the 1 and 3/4" Leonard headers the d clip fittings will work. On the 1 and 5/8" primary headers make sure you get the finger ends. They are a little bit of work to get on, but work very well.

    Kurt
     
  5. I used them previously with success.
     
  6. Thanks for the great answers, guys! I see there's more options than I thought. Madspeed, I like how the Proform bolts work, I'm just wondering if you had trouble putting them in tight spaces where they are difficult to access. I've read that 12-point bolt heads can make for easier installs. Does anyone here use or have experience with the ARP bolts?
     
  7. They arent any more difficult than any regular header bolt. 12 point would be a bit better if your planning on removing them much, but i sure dont!
     
  8. SOLD! :)
     
    #9 StangRider1, Nov 29, 2013
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2013
  9. Bingo. I've used SS allen head bolts with lock washers for years. Tighten them up and then once more after a few heat cycles and never worry about them again. 1" for iron heads, 3/4" for alum. Stage 8 are a PITA to get the clips on and twice the amount.
     
  10. I have Stage 8's, they work fine.
     
  11. You can make shorter turns with the wrench with the 12-points, which comes in handy in tight spots. Especially in the PITA area's nearest the firewall, and inside radius bolts on the 1 and 5 cylinders. That's not to say the 6-points are a bust, but if given the choice, the 12-point bolts are far easier to work with.

    I'd actually recommend 1" bolts in either head. I've got the 3/4" bolts in my GT40X's, with the BBK LT's and I'm lucky if I'm getting 3-4 threads inside the head. Makes me very nervous tightening them down. I actually had to pick up a 1" bolt to even get my dipstick into the stock mounting point as the 3/4" bolt wouldn't even start.
     
  12. Depends on how big your primaries are. If you have 1 and 3/4" primaries, you have to use the open end of the wrench, the box end won't fit. In such case, a 12 point bolt won't work.

    Kurt