door hinge kits how-to?

[smellmygas]

i bought a kit from cjpony parts
it came with 4 silver pins and each 1 has 2 copper things on it
any help for when i install these tomorrow, any thing to make this easier would help...and where exactly do the copper things go to?
thanks in advance

 

[BarnStang]

I got mine from 5.0resto. Ths job was painful. I used a cutoff wheel to split the old pins and a punch to drive them out. The copper bushings go on the hinge that's attached to the door. They should be a tight fit. You will need to CAREFULLY drift them in with a punch. Keep the head of the punch to the outside to avoid damaging or dimpling the inside radius of the new bushing. Take your time with this part.

What if it's not a tight fit? Not too much you can do. I have one like that. Driver's side of course. The bushing should NOT turn when the door moves. Do a search for this. jricker has a thread on this.

I wrote to 5.0resto about getting oversized bushings to solve this problem. They wrote back that their supplier does not offer this, but they have submitted a request for it.

My understanding is that the only fix is to replace the hinge. Which means re-hanging the door...no thanks.

The problem is that if one of the bushings are loose in the hole, then it will wear the hole bigger and bigger.

Also, the retiaing clips would not fit the pins. I had to remove the pins several times to drill out the hole for the clip bigger and bigger untill I could just slip the retaining clip in. I also beveled the end of the retaining clip so it would slip up and into the other side to ensure a tight fit. I think the hole was misplaced or the pins were too short. Only by mear fractions of an inch though. Enough to piss me off pretty good...

My doors close like new again though. Untill the drivers door wears down again.

Hope that helps...

I think I got that backwards. The bushings go on the hinge attached to the chassis, not the door...whichever part is smaller. You will see the old bushings that need to come out to be replaced.

 

[smellmygas]

thank u!!
did u take the door off or maybe put a jackstand under to hold it up?

 

[BarnStang]

I put a jack with a 2x6 board under the door. Helps greatly to have someone help hold the door...

 

[Qwk88LX]

How much does the kit cost? I need to do the same eventually on my driver side door, getting tired of doin the lift & push...

 

[jrichker]

Barn Stang's right about my OOOPS...

The important thing to remember is that the hinge pin isn't supposed to move once you are finished. If it does, then you will end up like me - the pin moved, it wore the door hinge instead of the replaceable bushings. Now in order to fix it right, I have to remove the whole thing again and drill out the hinge to the same size as the bushing and use 2 sets of bushings in each hinge rather than one set.


The fix for the OOOPs was very time consuming and if you aren't up to some very interesting machine work, do it right so you won't have to do it again. I fixed the OOOps but I had $43 worth of drill bit and specialized reamer plus pulling the fender off to fix it. It took two days, mostly because I didn't have a helper.

 

[smellmygas]

i just realized that the kit didnt come with the cotter pins? is that weird or do i need them or what?
i just saw that there is a hole at the bottom of all the pins...so i am guessing that its for a cotter pin
anyone?

 

[BarnStang]

Yes, there should be four retaininjg clips. A cotter pin will work, but mine came with small spring clips. And they are required. I have a bottom pin I blew off fitting the clip cause of the hole spacing, and it's worked it's way up and the door dropped again. I will be fixing that today...

 

[Bart03Mach1]

Barn Stang's right about my OOOPS...
...The important thing to remember is that the hinge pin isn't supposed to move once you are finished. If it does, then you will end up like me - the pin moved, it wore the door hinge instead of the replaceable bushings...

I just replaced my driver door pins and bushings. The pin does move some with the door movement, the bushings do not move at all. I'm concerned because of your comment. All the new pins I've checked (Ford, NAPA, 5.0 Resto & aftermarket) ALL are a smooth finish and may move. The originals were ribbed at the bottom to prevent movement, the replacements are not. So how do you get the pin not to rotate? The Ford parts guys said this is normal so long as the bushings stay put - I doubt it and think in time it would do the damage you described.

Anyone solved this?

Thanks,

Barry

 

[jrichker]

Tack weld the pins so that they don't move.

Or get creative with the pin used to keep the hinge pin from moving. Do something like make them extra long so they rest against part of the hinge.

Even some real thick super glue or JB Weld might work to keep the hinge pins from moving.

 

[Ray III]

Oil the bushings.

The door has to be removed at least part way in order to change bushings. SO if you are doing this yourself, and don't have a way to support the door with a strap around the windowframe, it would be easiest for you to find the door wiring connector behind the kickpanel inside the car and pull that out and remove the door entirely, then you can set it on pillows to work on.

 

[Bart03Mach1]

Tack weld the pins so that they don't move. Or get creative with the pin used to keep the hinge pin from moving...

Actully, I was considering going that route & probably will. Kind of a bummer that you can't find replacement pins with the ribbing to prevent movement.

Concerning taking the door off, a trick I used to support the door worked very well and let me do the change with the door on. I used a portable hydraulic engine hoist and with the window down looped a strap thru the window opening to hold the door. That way I coud easily adjust the door angle exactly where I wanted it and noone had to hold it for me. Granted not everyone has a portable hoist, but if you do, it works great.