door pin replacement?
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Starscream88
New Member
Ive done mine
You need a Little hacksaw or a air saw and you need to saw the existing ones in half,
Then use a punch and tap them out and discard them,
And then you will have the door off,
Have a helper there with you,
Lay the door on its side on something soft like a milk crate with a pillow on it, (i used 3 sofa cushions) the Missis wasn't too pleased
Anyway tap the new bushings in place,
Then have your helper "help" you line it up,
Place the new pins in place and tap them home with a punch,
Done
Its a lot easier than it sounds,
You need a Little hacksaw or a air saw and you need to saw the existing ones in half,
Then use a punch and tap them out and discard them,
And then you will have the door off,
Have a helper there with you,
Lay the door on its side on something soft like a milk crate with a pillow on it, (i used 3 sofa cushions) the Missis wasn't too pleased
Anyway tap the new bushings in place,
Then have your helper "help" you line it up,
Place the new pins in place and tap them home with a punch,
Done
Its a lot easier than it sounds,
I've done mine but it wasn't that easy. Starscream was right on how to do it but my stock pins didn't cut that easily and I had an air saw. Once I finally got them cut I had to beat them like crazy to get them broke loose, but it can be done. Once you replace them though it's like brand new doors!
DTT92LX
New Member
"Brand new doors" no doubt!!! I had to beat mine out too. Also, the new top pin barely fit past the top of the door panel when going in. Had to be careful not to chip the paint. Unfortunately I had no air saw, or small saw so I friggin' took the hack saw blade out and cut 'em by hand. Only took about 45min each pin...and a couple of aching hands!
Also, beware of the hinge being worn out. My bottom bushing was only half there and the old pin had worn at the hinge a bit. The new bushing still fit almost perfect but if it didn't, I would have had to make the bushing hole bigger and use 2 bushings to make a tight fit.
Also, beware of the hinge being worn out. My bottom bushing was only half there and the old pin had worn at the hinge a bit. The new bushing still fit almost perfect but if it didn't, I would have had to make the bushing hole bigger and use 2 bushings to make a tight fit.
just did it a week or two ago. much easier than cutting them in half (dremel and air grinder), is to grind the heads off the mushrooms (flared part on top). then use a long punch to press the pins out. when the pnch doesnt fit through the hole anymore, i used vice grips on the pin. i hammered the vice grips, which lowered the pins.
i used two jack stangs with thick towels on them to support the door. the outer hinge held the door even with no pins. getting the old bugger bushings out can be a pain, as was pressing new ones in. they are soft, dont beat them too much.
if you find that your outer hinge (that bolts to the frame) is spread out, so that the cotter pins wont go it, use vise grips to hold the top two pieces (the pieces that the bushing is in between), and the bottom two pieces together. the frame part of the hinge will be pulled up to the inner hinge (its boxed and stronger). then slide the cotter pin in.
which reminds me, when you push the pins in, try to get the hole for the cotter pin where you want it (read: so you can get the cotter pin in). i chose to use hitch pins, as they were easier (shorter) and went in easy. will be easier to remove.
thanks to Mustang Mikey and others whom gave me advice doing this.
i used two jack stangs with thick towels on them to support the door. the outer hinge held the door even with no pins. getting the old bugger bushings out can be a pain, as was pressing new ones in. they are soft, dont beat them too much.
if you find that your outer hinge (that bolts to the frame) is spread out, so that the cotter pins wont go it, use vise grips to hold the top two pieces (the pieces that the bushing is in between), and the bottom two pieces together. the frame part of the hinge will be pulled up to the inner hinge (its boxed and stronger). then slide the cotter pin in.
which reminds me, when you push the pins in, try to get the hole for the cotter pin where you want it (read: so you can get the cotter pin in). i chose to use hitch pins, as they were easier (shorter) and went in easy. will be easier to remove.
thanks to Mustang Mikey and others whom gave me advice doing this.
The Shape
Founding Member
It really is pretty easy if you have some help. I cut my pins in half with my dremel and beat them ou with a punch then my helper just walked away with my door in hand. I put the new bushings in lined the door back up and beat the pins in. One thing I did that no one else has mentioned is cut up an old towel and taped it on the edge of my fender and another piece on the edge of the door to avoid scraping up the paint.
Shape, good point. i thought about that when i did it, but didnt care since i was swapping doors and its getting painted. i did nick both the door and fender. nice idea. even a strip of duct tape or two on each surface would help a lot (clearance is tight).
glad you all had it easy. i had to fight mine, since the old door was backed into and the new door was whacky. had to play with the hinge that bolts to the frame to get it to align. not my kinda fun.
glad you all had it easy. i had to fight mine, since the old door was backed into and the new door was whacky. had to play with the hinge that bolts to the frame to get it to align. not my kinda fun.
The important thing to remember is that the hinge pin isn't supposed to move once you are finished. If it does, then you will end up like me - the pin moved, it wore the door hinge instead of the replaceable bushings. Now in order to fix it right, I have remove the whole thing again and drill out the hinge to the same size as the bushing and use 2 sets of bushings in each hinge rather than one set.
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