Door Skinning Issues

Discussion in '1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-' started by 65-Fstbk, Mar 31, 2014.


  1. 65-Fstbk

    65-Fstbk Member

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    Hi Guys,

    Anyone have much luck re-skinning a door? I did mine yesterday and am not really happy with it. Started with a Dynacorn skin but I don't think there's any issue with that. I used a air operated door skinning tool which did not operate as easy as they make it look in the video. Right on the tool head it says "Max Air 60#" but I had to turn my flow up to 100# to get it to start folding the flange over. At 60# it wouldn't tear a wet paper towel.

    Anyway, look at the pic. The lower line on the door was rippled due to the tool and I will need to do some work there to smooth but it's not too bad. Can be fixed. I'm more worried about the gap above the rocker as it's fairly consistent all the way along but then gets really tight at the last 4 or 5 inches on hinge side. The door is up as high as possible on the hinge end and the body contours line up good on the other end.

    I have not tack welded the skin yet.

    Any suggestions??

    Chris Car Door.jpg
     
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  2. robert912005

    robert912005 Member

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    i would have done it by hand with a hammer and dolly.... the air tools tear up the door too much... It also looks like the skin is on crooked or you didnt fold enough metal in the front of the door... you could always grind the edge to make it look right, then weld it back up...
     
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  3. horse sence

    horse sence Please don't call me Mom SN Certified Technician

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    I always do a door skin with a hammer and dolly as well. It looks like the air tool pulled the folded lip down as you went ,not much you could do except grind and weld . The problem is you cant fold a short area tight with out pulling the fold down ,it has to be folded slowly and evenly the full length of the fold.
    With the door shell setting in place in the outer skin, gradually fold the lip as you go . i found setting the door on a piece of plywood,as the dolly, you can work the fold with out denting the out side face , you may have to lift the door to keep the fold edge to the plywood .Only use the dolly to tighten the fold when it is as close to tight as you can get it on the plywood .Plywood will only work on the bottom edge you will have to use a dolly on the ends .Do the bottom first then the sides . also hit the flap as close to the bend as you can to keep the fold the same and force it to bend on the bend. I hope this makes sense .
     
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  4. horse sence

    horse sence Please don't call me Mom SN Certified Technician

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    lets start with a simulated door .It is 20 gauge sheet metal so close to a real door ,we have a box channel for the door shell and a flat face with a 1/2 inch lip for the door skin. With the shell setting in the skin and on my plywood
    _MG_4473.JPG
    Start hitting the flap in a slight angle to start the metal bending on the fold .go all the way down the skin with light hits just enough to get it to bend,do not try to bend it all the way just a slight bend at a time keeping the hammer blows one beside the other . _MG_4474.JPG _MG_4475.JPG
    keep working the full length just a little at a time with light hits keeping the skin tight to the plywood or dolly what ever you use .It should take at least 4 passes to bring it down snug. _MG_4477.JPG _MG_4478.JPG After you have made it to this point your hammer blows should over lap ,this will even out the folded edge an finish tightening up the fold . _MG_4480.JPG
    Nice tight fold and a straight edge _MG_4479.JPG We even have a dent free front surface .the fold is at the top of the bottom pic _MG_4481.JPG
    You will need a curved face dolly for the ends to get into the curls .if you should happen to get wobbles in the outer edges of the finished skinned door you can knock the edges in or out to remove the waves or wobbles .You can bend the edges enough to make them line up with the quarters ,rockers or the fenders if you need to.
     
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  5. horse sence

    horse sence Please don't call me Mom SN Certified Technician

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    You could try hitting upward on the edge where it hangs low ,it will distort the front a little but hammering the fold again may straighten the line .It looks good except for that last 4 or 5 inches .what it looks like it did was fold very slightly before the bend causing the skin to drop low at that last few inches.
     
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  6. 65-Fstbk

    65-Fstbk Member

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    Thank you guys. I'm going to try and fix based on your suggestions. Great pics Horse and really nice work.

    Gad I hate it when I screw up! I'll keep you posted.
     
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  7. CochinoFilipino

    CochinoFilipino Founding Member

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    Have you put a straight edge on that rocker? To me, it looks like the rocker rises making the gap tighter.
     
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  8. 65-Fstbk

    65-Fstbk Member

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    Must just be the visual in the pic. Checked it with a straightedge and it's dead straight. I pulled the skin off the door. Think I am just going to spend a few extra bucks and throw a Dynacorn shell at it. The door shell I used was not original to the car and it had some rust in the front corner. I had to cut out the rust and dolley a new section to weld in. The bottom flange that the skin folds over was not perfect along the base either. It's likely more cost effective for me to put a new shell on. I've heard the Dynacorn shells are darn near perfect. Any thoughts?
     
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  9. horse sence

    horse sence Please don't call me Mom SN Certified Technician

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    Dynacorns door outer skin is fantastic,You could spray it black as it is .
    _MG_3636.JPG _MG_3638.JPG
    The inner shell is very nice ,but the grain texture is not correct .The fit was great .
    _MG_3634.JPG
     
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  10. 65-Fstbk

    65-Fstbk Member

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    Thanks Horse, I think you sold me. I had heard that the grain wasn't perfect to original which means I should likely do both doors. It's just money right!!!
     
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  11. 65-Fstbk

    65-Fstbk Member

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    Forgot to ask, where you got yours from? I can find them for just over $300 ea incl shipping.
     
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  12. horse sence

    horse sence Please don't call me Mom SN Certified Technician

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    I got them through Stang-Aholics .I can't remember exactly what they cost but it was somewhere around $300 each and well worth it ,especially when you consider no more rust and no body work.
     
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  13. candphall

    candphall Member

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    Horse in the photos above are those door skins or shells? Or both?
     
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  14. candphall

    candphall Member

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    Last year I was in NPD in Ocala Florida picking up parts. They have a scratch and dent section to the side of the counter there I found two door shells each with a minor dings 95 bucks each. Should have bought both!
     
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  15. horse sence

    horse sence Please don't call me Mom SN Certified Technician

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    They are full doors . I don't know what they used to fold the lip but it is dent free.
    Almost looks like it is pressed . I could not find even a small ding in the outer skin or any where . The 65 -66 are the only ones i have used so far ,if the other years are as nice i wouldn't even think of skinning a door .
     
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  16. horse sence

    horse sence Please don't call me Mom SN Certified Technician

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    Soon as i can afford it i will be buying a set of 67 -68 s i just hope they are as nice as the 65-66
     
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