DP-90

[67GTA-FB429]

As some may remember, my car went to the body shop back in July. I got it backa few weeks ago. After extensive body alignment, frame pulling, welding, me running out of money and credit...the car is back out my house. All of the big items are fixed, but I am quickly learning how to use body filler to cover welding scars. So my questions are:

1) Is DP-90 a sealer, primer or both?

2) now that I have filled and sanded, there is bare metal showing and also body filler. I am going to use DP-90 again, do I shoot it on bare metal and the filler? Or do I need some other prep in there (besides sanding and grease removal)?

My understanding was that the DP-90 was a sealer. The car returned with DP-90 all over it, and I was told that I would need to use a primer before paint.

The filler I am using is Evercoat Maxum Xtreme (I really like it, too. Way better than Bondo brand) and I am using USC Icing as my glaze. Basically I have been playing some since I don't have to pay labor charges anymore.

 

[Fostang]

Jesus man my car may not have a motor but at least it checked up on the frame machine at the body shop next to VD.

 

[67GTA-FB429]

Jesus man my car may not have a motor but at least it checked up on the frame machine at the body shop next to VD.

Hey Fos...ssshhhhhhhhhh, you can almost hear your motor running.

Actually, all of the frame pulls were for 1/4" or less adjustments. The only thing that was really bad was that the pass side A-piller had been laid back and that was screwing up the roof, trunk, and pass door. But all of it is fixed now...and I still have an engine in mine.

 

[abadtb2]

From what I understand DP-90 is a sealer. You will need to shoot primer over it.

 

[1970 slantroof]

Ditzler DP 90 is a sealer that is intended to be shot over bare metal and provides corrosion protection as well as good adhesion for your sandable primer. I have used it with good success.
Howard

 

[67GTA-FB429]

The shop told me that it was a sealer, but there is some sort of yellow primer or something under the black DP-90 and I don't know what that is.

 

[10secgoal]

When I shot mine with the sealer, it was not to be sanded. And the directions said to have the primer shot right after the sealer, within like an hour of spraying the sealer.

 

[67GTA-FB429]

So I attempted to spray some DPLF-90 yesterday, sanded, masked, washed, dried, wiped down with oil and grease remover...still got fish eyes.

After doing some research...the little red shop rags (you can get at the store in a pack)...those are manufactured with an oil in them and it stays there even after being laundered. So I get to sand it all down again and clean with something else.

But, I just wanted to pass along a non-engine related tip to anyone that might be trying to self-paint.

 

[gp001]

Seems like you might have answered most of your questions, but here is the ppg sheet on the DPLF primer/sealers

http://www.ppg.com/refinishftpsite/docs/P-196_DPLF_Epoxy_Primer.pdf

 

[67GTA-FB429]

Seems like you might have answered most of your questions, but here is the ppg sheet on the DPLF primer/sealers

http://www.ppg.com/refinishftpsite/docs/P-196_DPLF_Epoxy_Primer.pdf

Thanks GP. Geez, those stupid rage really pi$$ed me off. Now the whole quarter is back down to metal. I have even ground out most of the body filler that was there. Oh well, live and learn. And it is cheaper than paying $60/hour at a shop. Get eveything smoothed out and cleaned Monday and Tuesday and I am hoping to re-shoot on Wednesday. Wish me luck. FYI: DP90 is $25/qt and then you still have to buy catalyst...

 

[gp001]

FYI: DP90 is $25/qt and then you still have to buy catalyst...

It's more than that here in tree hugger California, and my whole car is "painted" with it and clearcoat $$$$

 

[69 Rustang]

the little red shop rags (you can get at the store in a pack)...those are manufactured with an oil in them

Just use plain old paper towels when degreasing. Sure, you go through a lot of them, but they are not pretty cheap. You can also buy a paper towel like product through your paint vendor for the purpose of degreasing and cleanup of your paint equipment. I think there is one that dispenses itself out of a box somewhat like Kleenex.

One other point of concern--I really had problems with getting good air through my compressor. I have filters galore on the air coming out of my compressor to remove water, oil and any other contaminents. That too can cause fisheyes.

Sorry to hear about your problems. Good luck!

 

[candy-a-Mach1]

The local paint guy that use PPG told me this:

1) Use DPLF as a sealer over bare metal
2) Add body filler and K36 or K38 as a sandable primer
3) After bodywork is complete, shoot a reduced coat of DPLF over the entire car
4) Add the topcoat (and clearcoat) within a day or two (1 week max).

The PPG dealer said the same thing. I'm still in step 3.

Good luck

 

[67GTA-FB429]

The local paint guy that use PPG told me this:

1) Use DPLF as a sealer over bare metal
2) Add body filler and K36 or K38 as a sandable primer
3) After bodywork is complete, shoot a reduced coat of DPLF over the entire car
4) Add the topcoat (and clearcoat) within a day or two (1 week max).

The PPG dealer said the same thing. I'm still in step 3.

Good luck

That is what I have learned lately too. Where I got confused was when adding the filler and feathering the edges, I sanded back down to metal...do I re-shoot DPLF or just go straight to the K36?