Drive shaft weld and balance costs

Can anyone give me an idea of the costs for cutting/welding/and balancing either a steel or aluminum driveshaft?

Also, stock or billet steel flywheel. What are the benefits of billet steel and do they justify the cost difference?

Thanks for the input!
 
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I can't tell you what a driveline service would charge, but I've done 'em in about an hour and balanced in another hour. At the time we charged $60/hr so you figure can calculate it based on your shop's rate. It's really quite simple so don't let anyone BS you into thinking it's a super-complex job.
 
Thanks, I'm guessing that alum would be a little more $ since it is a little harder to work with but that gives me a good reference point. I'll wait until I install the trans to see what length shaft I need then decide if it makes sense to find a junkie alum shaft or have my steel one cut.
 
Had my stocker cut and rebalanced, painted, and spicer's installed, $130. That was in Boise, rates are a little higher there.

Solved a lot of problems though, harmonic vibration, gone!!
 
Can anyone give me an idea of the costs for cutting/welding/and balancing either a steel or aluminum driveshaft?

Also, stock or billet steel flywheel. What are the benefits of billet steel and do they justify the cost difference?

Thanks for the input!

Personally, unless you racing and the rules require a billet SFI rated flywheel, I don't see putting your money there. For a street car it's a "wow", "gee whiz" thing. Use the extra dough toward another more practical part. Maybe fuzzy dice :rlaugh:
BTW, if the reason for the drive-shaft question has to do with a recent auto to manual tranny swap, hold off until you get the tranny completely installed, then measure. As in some cases, a drive shaft change is not needed, if within known parameters.
Happy Motoring!
 
mom and pop type old school driveshaft shop near fontana raceway socal.....626 334 2418....his work was above and beyond anything I expected....$78 for new u joints, cut shaft down, rebalance it and even throw a spraycan paint job on it, lol...

it's been working flawlessly. Guys name is randy
 
The flywheel issue solved itself, the one that I removed (not sure if it was original or not) had a lot of tooth wear and some hot spots on the surface. I ordered and installed a new steal flywheel.

My driveshaft is at the shop now but has been finished (just need to pick it up). I had calculated that 3/4" should be cut off but waited until I had the trans installed and took a measurement to be sure. Yep, 3/4". I wound up using the stock steel unit and had them install new Spicer greasable u-joints and balance it for $150.