i have the o.e. shelby style, and feel that though it is a pretty lightweight piece, it would be effective in case of U joint failure. it mounts to the seatbelt bolts, (uses longer seatbelt bolts, along with a pair of tubular spacers.) and is situated in the center of the driveshaft, more or less, and prevents either end of the 'shaft from dropping to the ground if that end of the shaft is loose...
Might want to check these specs out: Straight from the 2008 NHRA Rulebook>>
In place of a crossmember, in the vicinity of the front universal joint, all cars in competition using open driveshafts, must have a retainer loop 360-degrees of enclosure, 1/4-inch (6.35 mm) minimum thickness and 2-inches (5.1 cm) wide, or 7/8-inch (22.2 mm) x .065-inch (1.65 mm) welded steel tubing, securely mounted and located within 6-inches (15.2 cm) of the front universal joint f or support of the driveshaft in event of U-joint failure. Recommended the loop be round rather than oblong to minimize loading on loop.
MUST be within 6 inches of front U joint. And YES!!! There is a reason for this.
I had a friend that broke his driveshaft on a mach 1 and his car lifted up a few feet of the ground didn't look like much damage but when we got under the rear to remove the shaft and replace the u-joints we noticed it had a 2-3 inch gap from wheel to wheel.So who knows what could of happened if he was going faster.Actually........the pole vaulting thing never happens. Metal will come up through the floor though, and rip tranny lines which spew fluid, which is not good for traction.
Dennis, did you have to make holes into the floor pan for the 4 bolts on each side like what BrianJ said? are the nuts on the interior or exterior? your setup looks great by the way.
anyone try the METCO loop sold by Year One??
yeah, i caught that. it wouldn't be as sturdy as yours, but it'll get the job down...