drop-in alternator upgrades?

Kerpal

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Aug 9, 2004
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I know about the 3G, but are there any other alternators that can be used as an upgrade from the stock 75 amp? How about a 100 amp unit from an 5.0L Crown Vic or something like that?

I was wondering because mine went out on me today, and I had to put in another stock one since I didn't have the tools avalible to put in a 3G... made me wonder if there's anything out there that will drop in without any grinding or wiring harness changes.
 
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Personally, I would not put an amp more than the stock alternator output through the stock charge wires.

For the 'grinding', you literally can use a small hack saw (dont ask how I know). Said saw is like 5 bucks at the home store.

I know it's not what you wanted to hear, but the upgrade is well worth the time and extra expense. You can buy a prefabbed kit with the alt, fuse, holder and cable (there's a good lookin kit I've seen from a Corral member whom sells them on Ebay, for instance). Or just do it yourself with help of the official write-ups that Jrichker posts, along with more shadetree info from Steve and Anthony (both had nice write ups and part numbers for doing it on the cheap with a parts-store fuse holder, fuse, etc).

Good luck.
 
I'm with JT on this one.
I would not run anything bigger than stock with the stock wiring and the little bit of grinding can be easily done with a $3 grinding bit on a drill.

The 3G is really the way to go on this one. It is one of those things that "Should" have com from the factory and finally did in 94.

For harnesses and alternator products, I have had nothing but great luck with the products from FFI. :nice: It may be slightly more than buying the stuff seperate, but you will be sure you get what you need.

http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=67
 
genericstang said:
I think that's him. I cant remember his ebay name vs what his Corral username is though. I'd hit him up on the forum and see if he offers a 'forum discount' ;) if you choose to go that route.

I only mentioned it because it's a complete kit, which is nice for busy people. Otherwise, were I doing it again, I think I'd get the cable kit that Kevin used (from FFI). I might get my next alt from there too. :shrug:

Or just grab a J/Y 3G for right now and do the wiring upgrade with parts store supplies. Kevin, for the first time doing the upgrade, whatcha' figure it takes - maybe an hour or so? Something in that ball park. It's a real simple thing to crank out in an evening after dinner.

Anyhow, good luck.
 
HISSIN50 said:
Kevin, for the first time doing the upgrade, whatcha' figure it takes - maybe an hour or so? Something in that ball park. It's a real simple thing to crank out in an evening after dinner.
Yeah, for a mechanically inclined person such as yourself JT. Might be an hour and a half to two hours with running the wires and the little bit of grinding.

After the grinding and wiring is done, it's not even a 10 minute job to replace.
 
http://www.wwe.com/superstars/raw/liliangarcia/
Ford Mustang alternative alternator replacement
1987-93

Ford Mustangs in 1987-93 were equipped with a 65A alternator. For the carburetor Mustangs of the past, 65A was more than enough. Add a better than stock stereo system and/or a smaller pulley to an 1987-93 and many Mustang enthusiasts were left with charging problems.

A wide-spread alternative is to use Fords 130A alternator, but this requires modification to the alternator bracket. Here, you will receive information on another Ford alternator. This one is rated at either 95A or 105A (depending where you get the info). That is more than enough to run a good stereo system AND run a pulley that is smaller than even a Motorsport pulley without problems. The advantage? It's truly bolt-in. No bracket modifications required.

The alternator in question is one for a 1994 Ford Aerostar van w/ 3.0L and A/C (air conditioning). This alternator is listed as other applications, but unknown what exactly. If you go to an auto parts store, just ask for the 95A or 105A alternator for that year/model van. You should have no problem (assuming the parts person is compliant).

UPDATE: I recently found out that this is the same alternator found in the Motorsports M-10300-A351 kit. Still check autoparts stores. You might get a better deal since you wont be paying for the name, Motorsport.
 
Jkstang78 said:
http://www.wwe.com/superstars/raw/liliangarcia/
Ford Mustang alternative alternator replacement
1987-93


I think the link is for if you want someone to come out and just rip chunks of the bracket out, so you dont have to do the cutting. :D

Nice lookin alternator though. There's a joke with headlights, 3G's and that link but I won't do it. :D
 
04sleeper said:
I'm with JT on this one.
I would not run anything bigger than stock with the stock wiring and the little bit of grinding can be easily done with a $3 grinding bit on a drill.

The 3G is really the way to go on this one. It is one of those things that "Should" have com from the factory and finally did in 94.

For harnesses and alternator products, I have had nothing but great luck with the products from FFI. :nice: It may be slightly more than buying the stuff seperate, but you will be sure you get what you need.

http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=67

i thought someone said that with the 3G upgrade you should use 4Gauge wire. FFI uses 2Guage?

whats the story on that?:nice:
 
4 AWG is the accepted gauge cable for a 3G. FFI chooses to use 2 AWG, which is even larger (able to carry more amperage).
 
Jkstang78 said:
Ooops sorry about that. Was looking to see if Stacy Kebler was still with the WWE Love her.

But here is what I wanted to post.
http://wcfords.com/articles/tech/alternator/alternator.html
The link you posted uses only the two stock 10 gauge wires. The current capacity of the two wires is only 60 amps. That is not enough to carry the 95-100 amps the alternator is rated at. This is not a good plan, and can lead to under hood fires.

I'm sure no one wants to burn up his/her car because they didn't spend a few extra bucks for some 4 gauge wire, fuseholder and a fuse. Do a job right and you won't have any regrets.
 
I also didn't happen to like the way the stock wires are cut. I chose to use Jrichker's method of using a Y-splice on the stator wire (and otherwise insulating and tucking away that same connector with the two OEM charge wires) to allow one to go back to stock with as little fuss as is possible.

Good luck.