dyno tune

[radimm]

your definetly to lean.. should be around 11-11.5:1. You really need to see how much boost your pushing. Also remember once you change your mass air, your tune that you just got is worthless. the MAF parameters will be different and will require a new tune. but it looks like the tune you have isn't too great anyways. I'm not a fan of C&L meters especially with blowers so i think your on the right track with the the new meter and headers but i would retune it and get the a/f down to around 11-11.5 and total timing around 20-22 degrees and see how it responds. you may also want to look into an ignition box at some point.

Thats exactly what I'm thinkin. I will install the maf and headers. Because of the lean tune I paid for I hope to convince the tuners to give me the additional tuning free or at least with a good discount.

 

[radimm]

All right, hooked the boost gauge. I have seen well over 9psi at like 5800rpm. I have 8 groove 3.33 SC and 6.87 crank pulley. OK thats enough I'm not driving the car until new headers and MAF will sit in. Vacuum at idle is like 16-18 steady.

 

[FordRangerFan17]

was that more or less boost then you had expected?

 

[TheRedBlur]

yeah man, I'd get a 6al box, plus I've heard that the fms wires are sucky, Ilike the accel 300+, longtube headers are also a good idea. I've got an idea about the choppiness. It might be due to an unstable valvetrain, you could try a rockerstud gidle, it could also be due to lack of port scavenging throughthe exhaust

 

[FordRangerFan17]

ya, that's what i was thinkin to, that's an awful lot of pressure from the boost being forced through those stock manifolds.


other guys fix this problem w/ an aluminum driveshaft, not too expensive at all.

 

[Wknd_Warrior]

Wow, your about 100 hp too low! That a/f looks too lean for a "tuned" blower car. I would guess you would want the a/f to be in the 11's. A few things I would look into are, a better maf (pro m 80mm) 255 high pressure pump and 42lb injectors. With the 42's, you can ditch the fmu. Then take it to a place that knows how to tune. I have a friend w/a very similar set up and he's making over 400rwhp with a very safe tune (and his car isn't 100% perfectly tuned either)

I agree.

 

[radimm]

I don't understand why I'm seeing over 9psi of boost with intake and heads. I think when stock pullies on a stock engine are rated for 8-10psi shouldn't the boost be lower on a car with heads and intake? I spliced the boost gauge into vacuum line going to ignition retard box is this correct?
BTW installed BBK unequal shorty headers last week the new MAF is due tomorrow and then back on the dyno.

 

[radimm]

Got new update!!
Installed 80mm ProM MAF and shorty headers. New dyno numbers are 330rwhp/351rwtq SAE with A/F 12.2. So I picked over 18hp. But I still need more HP.
I did a lot of homework research since then. I was thinking - when I changed heads on my car two years ago I put old valvetrain back exactly in the same order. I mean rockers with pedestal shims and pushrods in exact positions as were before. I didn't check for correct geometry because I was not familiar with that. It most likely means valves are not adjusted right. That is one problem I developed with my own stupidity. The other - when I bought the car there were no cats I didn't know that. To make this long story short - shop installed two cats but only one has the inlet for air pump connected the other is plugged I suspect this one or booth of them are clogged. That is maybe why I have seen over 11psi of boost at 6000 once or twice - I'm not taking it that far again. So now I'm looking for cheap off road X or H pipe and 1.6 roller rockers (Scorpion or FMS). I will adjust them this time since I will have the valve covers off and install the MSD BTM ignition I purchased (thank you Shawn). Then back again dyno to see what happend.

 

[radimm]

I got an update, it's been a while since I posted last time here. I usually hang on Corral forum but it is a bit slow tonight. I had the car on the dyno again. Jerry from Fordchip did the tuning. They did just one baseline run, then some keystrokes on a computer then second run was 409.1rwhp and 394.1rwtq. Jerry is the man and he knows what is he doing! I newer believed in chips but this experience makes me believe now. All I can say is WOW what a difference.

 

[ponyboy19]

nice improvement.. what was your a/f ratio and total timing,

 

[radimm]

Thanks. The A/F is 12.1 I don't know the total timing. Was so happy with the numbers so I forgot to ask.

 

[88Koupe]

it is my opinion that the choppiness in your graph is because the computer does not know what to do with your combination. I have a custom burned chip in my car, tuned by randy haywwod and it was choppy when he started the tune and he smoothed the graph by changing timing and fuel every 100 rpm's. (It took 7 pulls on the dyno.) A custom burned chip was a miracle for me. My car is smooth and responsive. Stock heads and valves with port and polish made 338 rwhp and 360 rwtorque. I aslo do not have a radical cam it is the trick flow stage one cam. I watched the boost gage on the pulls and at appx 56-5700 rpm i was making 7lbs of boost. if you were near nc, Randy is the only one i would trust with the tune of my car.

i have been wrong alot, these are just my thoughts.