Crankwalk is ONLY a 2nd gen issue- they have weaker internals anyway. Most of your oil issues and leaks are caused by one simple thing- aftermarket pcv valve. There is an item- GOD SEND for ANY blown/turbo car - KRANKVENT www.krankvent.com - here's the quickie The PCV is a one way valve, typically connected to your intake tract- vacuum pulls the oil mist out right? Well, most guys with n/a motors just disconnect- say atmosphere is an old hot rodder trick and are done with it. There is more than a few problems with this- but the main one comes with forced induction- pressurizing the cylinder before the compression stroke increases blowby which will actually pressurize the crankcase- anyone who deals a lot with engines can tell you that positive pressure behind the rings means oil contamination, poor sealing and reduced power. Now add to the mix high boost pressure, problems with detonation - you'll go boom... So you don't disconnect the pcv tube- what do you do? Most everyone has found on DSM's and any FI car using a pcv - that most pcv springs can't handle over about 5psi (most wastegates are 6-8psi - meaning minimum boost you can run). So what happens is with you pcv connected- you bleed your boost thru the pcv valve and into the crankcase! That's why you get people who can't keep a FI car together- the little things that don't mean crap on n/a mean TONS on forced induction. In terms of reliabilty and prevention of detonation- the krankvent with a catch can is about perfect- and any blown or turbo (or even juiced) stangs might do well to look into it. You can go on and on about a type of vehicles reliability- but most of it comes down to the maintenence- and therefore the person who owns it- if you switched to synth from dyno on your turbo car- you run higher chance of leaks, if you didn't switch to synth on your driveline fluids you risk breakage, if you just turn boost up without monitoring knock, a/f (on a wideband), EGT - you go boom. There is more to know about the FI AWD cars- knowing it- means you can have a 12 second $3000 car (including purchase price) that runs crap radials and manages it on 93 octane- I dunno about you, but that's not shabby. My personal cars ran mid 13's stock, with a couple hundred in them ran low 13's, the Stealth ran LOWLOW 12's (high 11's if I had driven better) and all of them had over 100,000 miles on turbos, trannys, t/c, motors (never had the valve covers off either). I put 50,000 miles a year on these cars- don't say reliability isn't there. I just hope the mustang makes it after it's not so solid start It's simply a matter of where you want power, how much you have to spend, and what you like.