Pissed Beyond Belief

[bart]

as some of you know, ive swapped a stang motor into my little bronco 2, ive had problems with the swap every so often now. so heres the thing. last week sometime, my truck wouldnt start. as in the fuel pump would not come on. well i was told an assortment of things to do and it fixed it. well it did it again. so anyhow in the process of trying to solve the problem i noticed that the relay was extremely hot and was making a sizzling sound. so i tak the relay apart....burnt. so i replace it. truck starts up no problem. i drive to school next day no problem. now it wont start again. this relay is ok, though. my engne builder said he thought it sounded like the eventual death of the computer. bottom line of this story, im sick and tired of this bull**** and im just about ready to destroy something. eventhough, i love the efi.........im about ready to toss it. (i have had other problems) so, the question is, would it be worth my time to swap it out? do any of you carb'd guys have any regrets? will i pick up/lose any power or torque? anybody have any suggestions (for a fix or for new parts)? what would i have to do throttle and kickdown cable wise (i have an aod)? what about the fuel pump? new or get a regulator or what?

i have an ecam, hooker LTs, gt-40 heads, with 1.6 rr's.

 

[jerry beach]

Dont toss the EFI, this is a fuel delivery prob. It would be much cheaper and easier to just fix it. Have you tried jumping out the inertia switch? I have seen them fail intermittantly, drove me nuts trying to find that. That Bronco has 2 pumps, a low pressure one in the tank and a high pressure one in the frame rail on the drivers side, correct? Check your grounds for the FP circuit with an ohmeter. Re-ground the circuit if you need to and go from there. I would prolly pull the tank and put a pick-up tube in it, then intall an aftermarket stand alone pump in place of your high pressure pump. (inline pump) Make sure your new relay didnt go bad too. New parts are not always good parts. And most of all, calm down before you start messing with it. I just take a break when I start to get amped up.

 

[93 LX]

Well if the relay gets hot then it seems you have an excess current draw. Could be the pump is going bad and sticking. What you may want to do it pull the pump and either replace it with an after market unit or get an external pump for the time being. Remember the computer only turns on the relay and not the pump. The relay switches on the pump. I am not sure what your mechanic ment by the death of the computer. I have a friend with an 82 Stang that had been retrofited with EFI and he used all the stock componets from a doner 87. No problems now but he did have some problems in the install for a few months after.

-a

 

[bart]

ok, i can jump the relay and the pump will kick on. the relay still clicks when i test it. i traced the wires, found no problems. Inertia switch was still good. teh only wire i cant trace...cuz i dont know where it goes is a black/yellow stripe wire.

my b2 doesnt have 2 pumps, thats a pre 89 thing. and mine is an 89. my main reason for the whole gettin rid of the efi, is because this is a constant problem. teh truck surges like crazy, even with my cleaning out the iab and i have my tps at .94, then it does this crap on a continuous note, especially days that i NEED to be somewhere. sometimes i have injectors that dont want to fire, have to pull over and wiggle them. id say that i have to fix something at least once a week. hell my dads effie is a carbd 5.0 and i dont thinks hes EVER had to mess with anything, other than typical tune up. this is just gettin old for me and i dont feel like messin with it i guess. sorry for the vent.

 

[bart]

death meaning, ya know how you can hear the click for the eec when you trun the motor on and off. well it doesnt do that anymore

 

[bart]

ok this makes absolutley 0 sense here, but i got out my evtm for the b2, went outside a traced wires. the P/Bl wire comin from the inertia switch, it goes to the tank, i found it on the driver side on a connector, wiggled it and the pump now kicks back on. WTF??

 

[jerry beach]

Pull the connector up there. It may have corrosion in it. You have just done a wiggle test and gotten a response in that area, so look into it further. Your wiggling injectors is prolly not fixing it. The bad connection at the tank may be causing your relays to burn up. Perhaps the wire is pinched and arcing to ground sometimes. You know, you may have to drop down the tank some in order to find it.


As for your suging, try removing and cleaning the TB real well. Also, if you have mass-air, and a cone filter in the engine bay, fan wash can make the MAF signal surge. Also, have you cleaned the 10-pins? And pulled the codes again? You will get it sorted out. I suggest to you, buy the Charles O. Probst book. How to understand, sevice and modify Ford Electronic fuel injection. You can get it from many sources, its a lifesaver.

 

[bart]

ight thanx alot jerry, ill get out here and check out this connector and back. now just a stupid question...but whats the 10-pins? ive never heard that, and obviously never cleaned it

 

[jerry beach]

10-pins are the salt and pepper shakers. They are white and black and hang out just behind the TB. Sometimes they corrode inside too, and you have to take them apart, clean them and deform the females ends a bit in the connector. These connectors contain the wires for all the injectors. I have never seen it personally, but have read many times they are sometimes connected to a surge.

 

[proxses]

Dude, hang in there!
I had many, many problems after my 5.0 Ranger swap. You will sort them out.
Also, what about rewiring the pump completely? That is what I did with mine.