EGR cap?! Where the hell is it?!?!

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CManT1914 said:
Yea but I'm not paying $20 for a stupid nut that I'll never need to take off. My friend who's a plumber is gonna get one for me tomorrow.

Yeah, I know.... It's not SO bad if you are ordering something else (and essentially don't have to pay the shipping). I didn't break down and get it until I was wondering if I had an exhaust leak there, which can screw with your O2 sensors (and thus fuel mixture). I could have cranked on the 5/8 and most likely fully sealed it off, but I didn't want to f up the threads....

After all the other $$$ the stang has sucked up, what's another 20? :rolleyes:

Rick
 
Are you guys trying to DELETE the egr? It looks like a delete kit in the pic. Like ..a block off plate and ..is the cap for the header threads where the EGR normally connects?

Reason I ask is mine has a leak and I think the EGR is dying anyway. Fumes are a killin me too! I want to delete it.
 
Pokageek said:
Are you guys trying to DELETE the egr? It looks like a delete kit in the pic. Like ..a block off plate and ..is the cap for the header threads where the EGR normally connects?

Reason I ask is mine has a leak and I think the EGR is dying anyway. Fumes are a killin me too! I want to delete it.

I've already deleted my EGR. There isn't really any point in doing it except for aesthetics. Well, actually, mine wouldn't reach back up to the intake with the lower intake spacer on, so I took it off. I have the ports in the intake closed off, just the EGR bung on the header is open because my nut that closed it fell off the other day. The nut on the left in that picture is supposed to do the job, I just can't find one. If your EGR is on it's way out, you can delete it, however I would not recommend this unless you have some way of deleting it from the PCM as well, like via a chip or tweecer or PMS.
 
Cool. BTW, where can you get the delete kit? I can't seem to find one on-line. You would think they would include that bolt in the delete kit but maybe I missed that. I did not read every post.
 
Since I too went with the 5/8" cap (not the metric one) I put some RTV copper in it and on the threads then sued a 1/2" ratchet to really put it on there, no leaks yet.

Remember the cap is brass and the headers are at minimum steel (better yet SS) so you will not harm the threads on the headers... The brass will deform first every time.
 
My buddy couldn't get off work in time to bring those caps by. So I went to Home Depot just to look one more time, and I found them!! So I bought two, just in case. Anybody need any? I can pick some up and mail them to you. They were $2.50 a piece though! :scratch: I thought they were cheaper. Oh well. :shrug:
 
CManT1914 said:
My buddy couldn't get off work in time to bring those caps by. So I went to Home Depot just to look one more time, and I found them!! So I bought two, just in case. Anybody need any? I can pick some up and mail them to you. They were $2.50 a piece though! :scratch: I thought they were cheaper. Oh well. :shrug:


2 caps.....$5.
7 Trips to different stores.....$200 in lost wages
85 gallons of fuel.........$240

Getting an ErEcTiOn over finding a couple of nuts.........PRICELESS!!!!! :hail2:

RC
 
Well I got the cap on. It actually threaded on further than I figured it would. I just doused it with some locktite, it shouldn't be going anywhere. If anybody needs one, lemme know. I can pick some up and mail them out for whoever needs them. :banana:
 
Ok, Ok, now I pay a pretty penny to machine these caps out of solid steel hex bar stock. They are metric. You will not find the cap anywhere. The only caps that size have a hole in them for ford egr tubes. If you want a deal I will ship you one cap for $12.00 total. This offer is only good for you CmanT1914. I can't see you farkin up your threads for a couple of bucks. The problem with brass caps is that it sure gets tight, but the inverted flare seal inside doesn't seat. Paypal address is [email protected] Offer good till Friday midnight Dec. 16th.

Mike Wazee