EGR Code 32 won't go away

Discussion in '2.3L (N/A & Turbo) Tech' started by Eric Cecil, Jan 16, 2013.


  1. Eric Cecil

    Eric Cecil New Member

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    Have a 1989 Mustang 2.3 automatic, non-turbo
    Keep getting code 32 when I do a Key On Engine Running test. Have replaced everything imaginable but code remains. Code says "EGR is not functioning" yet when I hooked up my breakout box, the EGR is functioning, and is reading correct voltage (about .46v-.5v at idle and full throttle, ranging anywhere from .46v to upwards of 3v when cruising). Car runs great, yet I always get code 32, meaning it is running in closed loop mode and not efficient as it could.

    Here's what I have done/tested:
    -Replaced EGR valve
    -Tried 3 EVP sensors (they all seem to check out fine)
    -Tried 3 EGR Vacuum Solenoids (they all seem to function when grounded)
    -Checked vacuum pressure (EGR valve, hoses, etc. hold a constant 5lb of vacuum)
    -Checked wiring/connections from EVP sensor to ECM
    -Tried 5 (yes FIVE) differnet ECMs
    -Tested reference voltage at other sensors that feed off of the same 5v reference the EVP does
    -Verified coolant temperature sensor, map sensor, and throttle position sensor is working correctly
    -Verified grounds are good

    Acts as though it is an ECM issue since all the correct voltages are being read at the ECM, but 5 different ones has to be impossible. With the breakout box hooked up, I watch the voltage during the KOER test and the voltage jumps up to around .8/.9 volts during the self test--showing that it is sending a signal but not reading it. There has to be something I'm missing, anyone have any other ideas?
    #1
  2. 91TwighlightGT

    91TwighlightGT Active Member

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    Have you checked the EGR Tube itself and the ports on the intake? Heavy carbon buildup could be blocking the flow. It's pretty common, and it looks like everything else has been replaced.

    Are you the original owner of the car? Do you know any history behind it? I ask because if someone swapped wiring harnesses with a different year it could cause some issues.
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  3. Eric Cecil

    Eric Cecil New Member

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    Yes, I forgot to mention the tubing. I have taken it off and sprayed carb cleaner through it. If I take it off I can blow through it freely. I've looked in the intake ports and didn't really see anything. I ran Seafoam through it about a year ago so there shouldn't bee too much build up.

    I am not the original owner of the car, I believe I am the thrid. I know the owner prior to me though and I think he said the engine was rebuilt or replaced back in the 90's by the owner before him--I think. Other than that I do not think the wiring was changed out. It seems like the wiring is good if the signal is reaching the ECM
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  4. 91TwighlightGT

    91TwighlightGT Active Member

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    I just have to believe you have a wiring issue. I would thoroughly clean the connectors, and check the resistance in the wires, preferably with a helper wiggling them as you test. Incidentally, I would also make sure that the rubber vacuum lines are all new and well attached.

    http://www.oldfuelinjection.com/?p=43

    Check this, too.

    I wonder if it would be possible to bypass the current wiring with some test wires? Might be more difficult than it sounds.
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  5. 91TwighlightGT

    91TwighlightGT Active Member

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    Also, does the car get up to proper operating temperature? Found this one while searching...

    http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/477719-egr-valve-positon-sensor.html

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  6. Eric Cecil

    Eric Cecil New Member

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    I have been using the oldfuelinjection.com and have found all of my numbers are in range. I used a vacuum pump on the EGR vavle and the vacuum hose going to the EGR and they hold a solid vacuum. The car gets to operating temp, and via the breakout box the CTS is sending the correct voltage to the ECM depending on the temperture. I noticed the EGR does not work under low temperatures and under high temperatures. I sprayed some electrical cleaner in some of the connections, but I can try to probe the wires with a safety pin and run a jumper wire straight to the ECM like you said. If the breakout box is showing me the correct volts, it should be getting to the ECM because the breakout box is connected to the ECM 60 pin connector, you would think?
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  7. jka

    jka Member

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    Did you remove both battery cables for 30 min after replacing this stuff? Because if you didn't the computer will keep this code as a memory code and it will cause you problems. Most people remove the neg cable but doing this will keep the same setting as before and if the code is in the memory your car will run good at first but it will go back to running bad and it will throw the same code. I ran into this problem a long time ago.. i was getting 33 and 34. Also when you ran the koeo did you get a 11 pass and then for the memory code 32..because if that 32 is the memory code that's why it keeps popping up. Remove both cables for 30 min then connect then start your car and let it idle for a few mins then drive 10/15 miles..then recheck the codes.
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  8. 91TwighlightGT

    91TwighlightGT Active Member

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    I think it is possible that when you are checking the wires everything is looking good, but that as you are driving down the road you could be having intermittent loss of connection due to a bad wire/connection. Running the jumper with known good wires would help to eliminate them as a source of the problem. Since you have replaced everything else, we can only conclude wiring and/or ground issues.

    Definitely follow the advice given by jka first, though, to be absolutely sure we are starting from a solid foundation.
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  9. Eric Cecil

    Eric Cecil New Member

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    Tried doing exactly this today and I am still getting 32. Had both cables off the battery for almost an hour and then drove about 35 miles. I get code 32 with a key on engine running test and 11 with a key on engine off. My next step will be to try the jumper wire. The thing is that I drive with the breakout box connected and it is always showing a voltage ranging anywhere from .45v to 3.2v depending on speed/acceleration. I thought maybe it there was a vacuum leak and the EGR was not able to open up to the ECM specs but all lines seem to be solid. Does anyone know what the little vacuum canister does that splits off the EGR vacuum hose near the EGR valve? It had a crack in it so I plugged it to stop the vacuum leak but changed nothing.
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  10. jka

    jka Member

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    Does the code affect the way your car runs? Sometimes you will have to keep driving it and the computer will get rid of the code. It will take along time if that code been in the memory for a while. I had the same problems with code 33 and code 34...and when i replaced this stuff i had the same codes. But after miles of driving the code was gone. If your are not have problems with stalling or bucking.. give it time and see if the computer will get rid of this code.
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  11. jka

    jka Member

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    Also how does your pcv/oil separator look? something could be plugged. Do you have a pic of this canister?
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  12. Eric Cecil

    Eric Cecil New Member

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    Car runs great however I'm only averaging about 17 MPG (200-230 miles per tank) and most of that is freeway driving. I originally discovered this problem when it did not pass smog back in October. With all that time and all the ECMs I've tried it has to be something with the car. I know with code 32 the car is running in closed loop, causing the efficiency to suffer. I ran out and took a picture of the vacuum canister, and while I was there I took one of the PCV. There is a VERY small crack on the left side of the canister, but it is causing a vacuum leak.

    photo1.JPG photo.JPG
    #12
  13. jka

    jka Member

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    Looks like an inline check valve...you may want to hook that back up..that's for emissions control.. works with the egr system. Also does your pcv valve rattle when you shake it?
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  14. Eric Cecil

    Eric Cecil New Member

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    I will glue the crack in it and hook it back up. Yes, the pcv valve rattles
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  15. jka

    jka Member

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    Okay hook that back up do and the same stuff with the battery cables then drive and check the codes again.
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