Eibachs or H&R Springs

99 silvr35th

New Member
Jan 23, 2004
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Long Island
any sugg. on which is the best way to go, i have 99' gt 16k miles, want to get a lower stance car, sits way too high. Which would u guys recommend and whick kit, pro-kit, sportlines, sports, or super sports, assuming i stay with stock shocks, or should i put on bilstein HD and get the lowest drop. Does anyone have a diff. set-up that is better? Thanks..
 
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99 silvr35th said:
thanks. car sits sweet! So i just need to put the spring no cc, right? r those the bullit rims? looks nice! where did u get them and how much If u don't mind me askin'?
Thank you sir for the compliment. In some cases caster/camber plates are necessary but for me they weren't needed. Each car is different so you may just have to put the springs on and check alignment and go from there.

The wheels came from www.wheelreplicas.com and they are 17x9 in the front and 17x10.5 in the back with 315 BFG Drs back there. I believe they were in the neighborhood of $725 or so shipped to my house.
 
Thanks alot 4 your help, gonna go with the pro-kit. Gotta ques., maybe u can help, i'm getting a check engine light (code P1074, per auto zone). I originally got the code after installing exhaust 8 months ago, got the prob fixed, installed C&L boom light again tried C&L richer calibration drove for 50 miles, code again, same P1074, too lean. Think it's the C&L or the MIL's acting up, any advice would be appreciated as i'm about to pull my hair out. And am i huting the car driving around with this lean code? Thanks again.
 
99 silvr35th said:
Thanks alot 4 your help, gonna go with the pro-kit. Gotta ques., maybe u can help, i'm getting a check engine light (code P1074, per auto zone). I originally got the code after installing exhaust 8 months ago, got the prob fixed, installed C&L boom light again tried C&L richer calibration drove for 50 miles, code again, same P1074, too lean. Think it's the C&L or the MIL's acting up, any advice would be appreciated as i'm about to pull my hair out. And am i huting the car driving around with this lean code? Thanks again.
What corrected the problem the first time?
 
mil's weren't plugged in all the way and changed the passenger side O2 sensor, the stock O2 was barely reaching the pipe so it would pop out. Yesterday, the guy at auto zone is telling me the O2 by the mid pipe needs to be changed, not sure on there knowledge of stangs.
 
99 silvr35th said:
mil's weren't plugged in all the way and changed the passenger side O2 sensor, the stock O2 was barely reaching the pipe so it would pop out. Yesterday, the guy at auto zone is telling me the O2 by the mid pipe needs to be changed, not sure on there knowledge of stangs.
Go back and have him print out what you need to check for that code. You'll get a page of diagnostics to run so it's not as cut and dry as they make it seem but he could be right. Those guys only have the capability to retrieve the code that is stored in your computer, not actually tell you what needs to be replaced or what specifically is wrong. I know you said the code showed a lean condition but have you noticed your gas mileage deteriorating at all or do you smell gas? Typically (not always) when an O2 sensor goes bad the car will run a bit on the rich side so that's why I ask.
 
Sportlines with all isolators still in. Have 2 1/2 fingers in rear and 2 fingers in front.

198118_34_full.jpg
 
micool said:
The wheels came from www.wheelreplicas.com and they are 17x9 in the front and 17x10.5 in the back with 315 BFG Drs back there. I believe they were in the neighborhood of $725 or so shipped to my house.

What make and size tires do you have up front. I saw on your site that they are 275's, but what's the sidewall height?

I'm debating between 17" and 18" rims. I know what the 18" rim combo that I like costs, but I'm cosindering saving a few bucks and go with a 17" combo. I like how yours looks :nice:

Thanks
 
micool said:
I'm happy with the Eibach Pro Kit. Stock shocks/struts and caster/camber plates as they weren't necessary on my car.

NICE...i think thats the route im going to go. Where did you get your pro kit from? Where's the cheapeast place to get them? Did you replace the stock isolators...i think i've will need to replace them because the stock suspension is kinda clinking sometimes if you know what i mean? But im not sure isolators will fix that.

So the stock shocks with hold up and not let the car bottom out? The eibach springs have basically the same spring rate as the stock springs thats why im asking.

kirkyg
 
Could be the tire combo making mine look lower, don't know. Seems like that front splitter has something to do with it too maybe. Maybe making the car seem lower than it is.

I bought my springs from a local speed shop so in terms of the best prices I couldn't tell you exactly where to go as they were definately higher than most online vendors.

I bought the pro kit along with eibach front and rear sway bars for my car. My intentions were to buy the eibach struts/shocks as well but in speaking to them found that it was a waste of money unless I was replacing the factory stuff due to wear. My car had 300 miles on it when I put the springs on it and according to Eibach there would be no noticable difference in replacing stock shocks/struts with such low mileage.
 
micool said:
Could be the tire combo making mine look lower, don't know. Seems like that front splitter has something to do with it too maybe. Maybe making the car seem lower than it is.
QUOTE]

ya i agree with that mainly talking about the wheel gap beteen the fender and tire though... ya know? as i've told u before it looks great on ur car and lower compared to people with springs that are supposed to lower their ride more than yours to me your ride looks like it has sportlines or super sports even though u dont have that.
kinda makes me rethink of what im going to get if i can get that same drop making the wheel to fender look the same for cheaper ya get what im saying?

since obviously it would be alot more expensive to have to add c/c plates and shocks/struts (if needed)
 
00redGT said:
What make and size tires do you have up front. I saw on your site that they are 275's, but what's the sidewall height?

I'm debating between 17" and 18" rims. I know what the 18" rim combo that I like costs, but I'm cosindering saving a few bucks and go with a 17" combo. I like how yours looks :nice:

Thanks
Thank ya. :) I run 245/45/17s on the front with 315/35/17 BFG DRs on the back.
 
zgarske1038 said:
micool said:
Could be the tire combo making mine look lower, don't know. Seems like that front splitter has something to do with it too maybe. Maybe making the car seem lower than it is.
QUOTE]

ya i agree with that mainly talking about the wheel gap beteen the fender and tire though... ya know? as i've told u before it looks great on ur car and lower compared to people with springs that are supposed to lower their ride more than yours to me your ride looks like it has sportlines or super sports even though u dont have that.
kinda makes me rethink of what im going to get if i can get that same drop making the wheel to fender look the same for cheaper ya get what im saying?

since obviously it would be alot more expensive to have to add c/c plates and shocks/struts (if needed)
I understand completely. I was fortunate to not have to use caster/camber plates and as of right now (12k miles on the car) the ride is as good as it was at 300 miles when I put the springs on the car.
 
How do you decide wheather or not to use cambler plates? I have the prokit with the mach one struts and shocks by tokico and steeda plates. I'm taking them off cus I think they are shot and I'm puttin g the stock CC plates back in. I doubt it makes a different which car the cc plates are on. If you drop 2" or more you need CC plates.

Get the Prokit and be happy.....its a nice ride (close to stock) and it makes your car tight in turns. You'll notice a huge difference when you launch.....no more fish tail.

I got my suspension from gefracing

www.gefracing.com (talk to rick)