Emergengy, P- brake, what's involved?

Discussion in '2.3L (N/A & Turbo)' started by racer_inboston, Jan 17, 2007.

  1. racer_inboston Founding Member

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    Just wanted to see what is involved cause I'm being charged about $200 to have the cable that runs from the e-brake handle and the other 2 that connect to the drums.
    Thanks
  2. evintho Member

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    If that's for labor only, you're getting reamed to the tune of about $150! Take 10 minutes, crawl under your car and see what's involved. They basically disconnect from inside the backing plates, thread through the unibody and connect underneath the E-brake handle. If you've never worked on a car before, it's something you could do in an hour!
  3. stykthyn Commander of the snuggie cultists

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    is this from the same mechanic that made your car crap out???
  4. racer_inboston Founding Member

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    no this is another mechanic. but it sieems like they all try to screw me, just got another quote for about $165 which sound more reasonable since i do need all 3 cables.
  5. stykthyn Commander of the snuggie cultists

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    that's their job, they all have extensions they have to put on their houses and so forth. do yourself a favor.
    buy a Chiltons and a mustang shop manual and learn to turn a wrench. the parking brake cable is a great place to learn as it is relatively easy to install.you will be amazed how much you save and you will look at your car a whole new way b/c you are the one that is personally making it run.
    nothing like pulling off a repair in your driveway and getting that sense of accomplishment when the vehicle works better than the day you bought it b/c of something you did. so go for the gusto:nice:
  6. racer_inboston Founding Member

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    stykthyn ,

    I am a bodyman by trade and don't need amanual to do it myself. I'm mechanically incline have done the brakes (rotors, spring swaps, conversions from drum to disc etc..) BUT here in Boston it is 8 drgrees Ferenheight and too cold to do this in my driveway, wait I dont have a drive way. SOrry if I sounded a bit upset, I know if I get down to it i can change it if it was warmer out. I have 1 day before my rejection sticker expires and it's not getting any warmer here so I HAVE to have a mechanic do it. I just moved to this area and do not know any of these shops to know if they are reliable and honest. P.s the guy was charging me for 3 hrs worth of labor, I seriously doubt that if he needs an extension on his house he has to overcharge. As farf as the first mechanic I took the car to, there are sev eral complaints from the BBB when I called them for dishonest work done to other people's cars.

    Thanks.
  7. stykthyn Commander of the snuggie cultists

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    yeah, being down here in FL I tend to forget how cold some other parts of the nation gets. sorry bout that
  8. racer_inboston Founding Member

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    It's cool bro, you are so lucky with the nice FLA weather.
  9. 91rangerturbo New Member

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    My parking brake is partially stuck on my car too. Is yours broke or just stuck?
  10. racer_inboston Founding Member

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    Mine is not stuck. The cable that runs from the brake lever in the middle console snapped. The reason why it snapped is due to the rear (2) cables being faulty. 3 cables need to be changed along with a rear drum brake job while its being done.
  11. BlackBird Founding Member

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    Personally, I found doing the cables on my 93 Coupe to be a bit of a PITA. The end of the cable that goes up to the console was very hard for me to get at with the driveshaft in place. This may be because of my big hands, but who knows? Now I guess this only applies to 1993 models as older ones have cables where they clip in back by the control arms and then are exposed cable all the way up to the console. My '93 has the cables that are in the sheath all the way to the front. So I guess YMMV.

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