Emissions Test

5.0 Nostalgia

10 Year Member
Feb 28, 2003
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CT
I have to take my car for emissions and need some tips. My motor is a 331 with 10.5:1 compression, 30lb. injectors, fuel pressure at 40psi, timing at 16*. At the current time the car is running pretty rich. My plans are to set the timing to 12* and lower the fuel pressure a little.

So far I put a 16,000 mile stock h-pipe on that I borrowed from a friend but there is a leak on the driver's side where the header and pipe meet. I have a McCleod scattershield on and it takes up a lot of room so I don't know how much I will be able to wedge the thing around to get it to fit better. Will this be a problem?

What other tips are there for getting this thing through?

Thanks
 
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slip the guy a lil $$$ ? lol works here for me! i actually know a guy here in canada and i just bring my exploder into him! he runs it on the test machine puts in my vin# for the stang and it passes everytime! good thing cause i have no polution control at all!! might not be able to do something like that where you are but it works here!
 
How to pass emissions testing:

High NO - high combustion temps - retard timing, check EGR for operation.
High CO – Rich condition - fuel pressure too high, check O2 sensors, replace air filter, Clean MAF element.
High HC – Lean misfire, vacuum leak, common misfire due to worn or weak ignition system components. On rare occasions, an overly rich mixture may be the cause. Do the ethanol/E85 fill up as suggested.
High CO & HC - Cat converters, smog pump, and smog pump controls.

How to pass emissions testing:

1.) Make sure all the emissions gear the car was made with is present and connected up properly. That includes a working smog pump and cats.

2.) Make sure that you have fresh tune up with spark plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, fuel & air filters. An oil & filter change is a good idea while you are at it.

3.) Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/

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IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

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89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

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Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is less than $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/p-7208-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx– It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.


4.) Post the codes and get help to fix them. Don’t try to pass with codes not fixed. Clearing the computer just temporarily removes them from memory, it doesn’t fix the problem that caused the code to be set.

5.) Be sure to do the testing on a hot engine. Drive for 15-20 minutes prior to taking the test to get operating temps up into the normal range. Do not shut off the engine while waiting for your turn on the test machine. An engine up to full operating temperature puts out fewer emissions.
 
Thanks for all the help. My engine is pretty much new. I noticed the exhaust leak when I started the car after putting the stock pipe and emissions equipment on. When I took it off to try and fix it, there was what I could only assume to be unused gas leaking out. The #5 plug was black and had some build up on the ring, so I am assuming the car will probably fail due to a rich mixture. Is it ok to drive the car with the exhaust leak. It smells pretty strong in the engine bay when the car is running and I can hear the popping.