Engine Build

[klaw]

I have an '07 GT with a Whipple HO running 10 psi boost. I also have a second '07 GT engine with 5200 miles (bought it out of a wreck). I've been thinking about putting a rotating assembly into my second block this winter and then swapping it in. I would do cams and valve springs at the same time.

Has anyone done something similar? Am I better off to go with a shortblock or just install the rotating assembly myself? What companies have people had success with (SHM, Livernois, etc). Should I stay stock bore/stroke or go stroker or stroker & overbore? I've seen kits up to 5.2l for an 4.6l block. Any issues with the aluminum 4.6 block at higher HP?

I'm looking for ideas/suggestions?

 

[StonePony]

You can save a lot of money if you can do the rotating assembly yourself. You just need a good machine shop for all the machine work. I have not seen anyone make much power from stroking, but if you do stay at 298 cubes. Eagle makes a reasonable priced rotating assembly and Livernois has been selling a lot of 3-valve kits.
The aluminum 4.6 should be good for up to 1000 RWHP.
You really cant bore them though, because of cylinder space issues.
You can buy a complete FRRP Aluminator shortblock for like 4500 and JPC is pushing 1000 RWHP on one of those. I would do the build yourself though if you know how to assemble a modular block. If not experinced then buy a complete shortblock and save yourself some trouble.

 

[TGJ]

You can Bore and Sleeve an aluminum block 4.6L to displace 5.0L( 304 CI ). I have one of these in my 96 TBird.

 

[klaw]

You can Bore and Sleeve an aluminum block 4.6L to displace 5.0L( 304 CI ). I have one of these in my 96 TBird.

I actually bought the second 3V engine and harness etc to swap into my '95 T-Bird. The original 2V in that one is very tired and a little limp compared to these 3V's. I'd love to hear more about your T-Bird as that's a project I'm doing this winter with my son.