Exhaust install.....

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pretty straight forward. you will have to cut out the stock cat-back, or lower the rear axle for clearance to remove it. the biggest pita was that the damn tranny stayed hot the entire time we were working, so disconnecting and reconnecting the O2 sensors became a bitch. get some PB Blaster to use on the exhaust manifold studs. let it soak for a good 20-30 minutes to do its job, then take those fuggers off. good luck! and yeah, the computer will adjust.

oh yeah, disconnect the battery before doing anything else.

one more thing, for the passenger side manifold nuts, you will need a few extensions and a 3/8" drive swivel/universal, and a medium-deep well socket. i fotget what size,....want to say 15mm
 
ok, I have all the extensions and universals I need, so that shouldnt be a problem. And I will be very generous with the liquid wrench as I alway am.

Im not sure if the lift Im using is gonna hold the car up by the frame or by the wheels. If it one that holds the car by the frame, will I be able to get the stock catback out w/o cutting? I guess Ill bring the sawzall just to be safe. Ill try to arrange it so the tranny has time to cool as well.
Thanks for the response.
 
the lift i used supported the car by its wheels, and we planned on using a sawz-all anyway. you may be able to get it out of there on a different lift.

your in NY right? its probably getting pretty cold up there, si im sure if you give the car time to sit outside it will cool quickly. i grew up in PA. my how i miss it.
 
that i cant tell you. my CEL never came on, and to be honest i didnt notice much of a difference in performance/mileage from when i first installed it to a few weeks later. didnt notice a difference at all
 
Here's my advice:

For the midpipe, disconnect the wiring harnesses first, then unscrew the o2 sensors. If you do it in the opposite order, you'll twist the hell out of the wires, and end up with a weird MIL code like P0059 like I had. You don't need a special wrench, just a regular open end (7/8's I think) to get the o2 sensors out. Make sure to keep the fronts together and the rears together and install them in the same position you pulled them from.

The guy who recommended to disconnect the battery is spot on. That lower passenger side nut requires you to bang whatever combination of sockets you use right against the starter, so disconnecting the battery is an absolute must. Take your time with that lower passenger side nut. It's a PITA, even with PB blaster. My car had like 5 thousand miles on it when I did my midpipe swap, and it was still a bitch to get off. If you strip it, you can hammer on a socket of the next lower size to make it work.
 
helty said:
one more thing, for the passenger side manifold nuts, you will need a few extensions and a 3/8" drive swivel/universal, and a medium-deep well socket. i fotget what size,....want to say 15mm
Yeah, the medium-depth socket was a must. A regular deep-well would not go on the nuts straight, and it would round them off in a hurry. The medium depth goes straight on them, so you don't have to worry about rounding them. And, yes, it is a 15mm.
 
Don't forget to disconnect the battery before the install, so you don't arc the starter with a ratchet, etc.

Plus, you will need to have the PCM reset to take best advantage of the new exhaust setup. Good luck!