Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by Bullitt347, Dec 14, 2011.
Went to the track first time. Fun...fun...fun.....first day was great, it was a bracket race and my first time to the line on the practice run I stalled at the start.....OOOOOOPS...restarted and got a 16 at 123MPH. Could not hook in first and second and my 60ft times were 2.2. I won 4 of my races in the bracket and was sitting pretty for 2nd at least when I stalled again at the start and I was eliminated. Long story short my best time 11.5 at 137mph with a 60ft of 2.1. It was fun catching all these cars with big bad as slicks doing monster burnouts at the big end of the track. They would whip me off the line then after screwing around in 1st and second spinning my wheels I would hunt them down when I got to 3rd and 4th and pass them at the end.
The second day is another story, wish I would have stopped on the first day. On the second practice run my belt cam off at the end of the track in 4th gear and car overheated as the water pump was not turning. Lost some coolant and when I pulled the radiator cap it was at 3/4 and some brown crap was on the cap. Not sure if it was sluge that got sucked up from the bottom of the overflow tank which had some crap at the bottom as well. I was able to get the belt back on and ran it home with no overheating and engine and oil pressure was good, oil looked good as well. It was able to take a hard boosted pull in 3 and 4th without overheating so maybe....fingers crossed it was just crud from the bottom of the overflow tank on the radiator cap.
Nitto drag radials 315/35 17
87 degrees Strong head wind
Non prepped track it was an airport used for drags 3 times.
137 mph with a lousy 60 foot..................this is a 9 sec. ride if you could get it hook up. Great job and glad to see something other than dyno #'s. I like big dyno #'s as much as the other guy but if you only make it a dyno queen, then whats the point? I also love watching small tire cars run faster than the tubed steamroller cars. At our last race one of the guys we run against pulled the front wheels for over 200 ft. and scraped paint off of the rear bumper cover with only the 26X8.5 Hoosier tire! Still ran 5.74 @124+ in the 8th mile with that monster wheel stand! Proves that you don't need to tub it and back-half it to go fast.
I need to keep my belt on if I want to go back to the track. I already realigned my power steering pump but need 2.5" 8 rib blower pulley with belt guides like you guys have. What is your source for pullies with belt guides. I'm still using the 10mm bolt.
We generally use Billetflow pulleys for the supercharger and idler/tensioner positions. We had Auto Specialties make the alternator and crank pulleys to the dia. that we needed. The alt pulley is 4" in dia. because we run a 7.8" crank pulley and at 8,000 rpm the alt was frying from the massive over-spin.
Are they steel or alum and if alum at 2.5 inch that's a lot of heat on a small pulley. Ay issues with them. I looked at billet flow and I didn't see a 2.5" pulley only their hub design and the smallest pulley was 2.75" are you guys using a 10mm bolt.
Steel hub with aluminum pulley attached to hub. 2.76" pulley is what we are using with a 10mm bolt, grade 10.9 so far no issues with the 10mm bolt or the pulley and that is spinning the bejezzus out of it.
sorry............we switched up to a 12mm bolt as we were breaking the 10mm bolt, that is what led us to modifying the supercharger snout and shaft.
How is the aluminum pulley holding up for you, any wear from heat and friction.
The pulley we use is the steel hub with an aluminum pulley ring..turns out the aluminum surface of the pulley the belt rides on holds up great. It is the hub where the pulley bolts too the snout that takes the abuse and needs to be steel. A solid steel pulley is too heavy breaks the bolt off when you launch the car or on the 1-2 shift and an all aluminum pulley the hub breaks down and starts spinning on the snout....even then we re engineered the snout for a 12 mm bolt at the pulley end to better take the abuse that 8000rpm engine and 22000 rpm blower speeds dole out.
Finally broke through with the launch on the convert. We made a nice jump in performance too....new best of 9.06 1/4 149.9 mph and 5.80 in the 1/8. pics and video to follow!
anyone else coming close to this with a kennebell powered sbf!? ANYBODY?!
Wow! Great performance from the KB! I think that will be hard to beat...
Walter.......post up the time slip
Unbelievable guys you will be snatching the 8 second time slip soon. Hard work dedication and a passion for the twin screw coursing through your vanes. I would like to know what got you there. What was your timing, act temps air fuel ect. And my time slip is not even in the same ball park street car going sideways down the track, ill bet our power level area close though.
I want to share with you guys some success in reducing the temps of the kenne bell case. I had my liquid cooled KB setup like you guys using the engine coolant. I found that my blower got so hot and within minutes that I couldn't even touch it anywhere without burning my fingers and this always disturbed me because before non intercooled version 2.1L seemed it would take a lot to get it that hot like that. The engine coolant being 200 degrees really seems to super heat the blower then with the sc generating its own heat and couple with the exhaust header blasting heat to the side of the case , it's just to hot. I feel kenne bell lacks some direction here in that when they developed this front liquid cooled case they really had the air to water crowd in mind and with that I believe it works fine as long as your not using ice. As far as any application without an alternate source of cooling aside from engine coolant kenne bell kinda half ass says you can route it this way but in my opinion this is a big mistake and only worsens the issue, you would be better of without if plumbed this way.
What I did was use a small engine radiator a small Bosch electric coolant pump mounted in the lower left corner between my radiator and intercooler and then run the overflow line spliced into my current radiator overflow line.
I have it wired to a lighted switch in my dash to a relay to turn the pump on and off if needed. It works like magic and the difference is unbelievable I can run the car all day in the streets stop open the hood and I can lay my full hand on the compressor...yes it's still hot but won't cook your hand. The front cover is a little cooler than the case and when I touch the small radiator its always luke warm. I can only imagine this will translate to longevity of the bearings and seals. I've also noticed the gear oil no longer builds up in my catch can. Must be the lower temps keeps the oil from aerating.
You can see the small engine radiator with cap, it has black plastic honey comb air straightener in front of it. The electric fan from the radiator actually pull air through it.
^ I am slightly worried about your intercooler falling off, I'm not sure one sheet metal screw is going to go the distance...
Nice homebuilt intercooler though!
My only question(s) is this:
First let me preface by saying that all I know about the LQ KBs is the little blurp I read on their website. One of the things that I recall is that they cautioned about running ice-water to cool the blower. Made a point to talk about/ensuring that engine cooling system was used... Aren't you at all concerned that with it's own self-contained and much cooler system, that the blower oil won't be warm enough to properly handle the bearing speeds that you're putting them through? The KB oil is a straight weight, isn't it? They probably assume a certain viscosity from heated oil at full tilt.
The Kenne Bell fluid is the equivalent of 50w Redline synthetic oil. In our application, the run time on the supercharger is so small that using engine coolant (water with water wetter) heat is really not a problem, although the supercharger case is certainly hot after a 1/4 mile blast and then idling 1/2 mile back down the return road. We have 2 fans we use to cool off the engine/supercharger after each run. For a street car I can see where your idea has some real merit, although it would be interesting to data-log the actual supercharger coolant temps in and out of the front case.
We are running a total of 27* of timing. Mind you this is with C-16 race fuel. Boost after air/water intercooler is around 22 psi. Air charge temps at end of 1/4 mile run vary from 120 degrees to as high as 160 degrees depending on outside air temp, how long the staging lane line is, how much ice we put in the water tank ect. We could have lower air/charge temps if we wire the intercooler pump to a separate switch so that it does not circulate the ice water until after the burn out. Right now the intercooler pump runs anytime the ignition switch is in the run position. As far as air/fuel goes...the target air fuel is 11.8:1 and usually runs right in that area. Sometimes we see 12.0:1 as the leanest. We could certainly make more power with a target a/f of 12.0:1 but Walter plays it conservative as we are at or beyond the HP rating of the crank that is currently in the engine and he does not want to "rattle" the engine during a run.
Wow...so you guys picked up a couple psi with the bigger throttle body and air to water core. Outstanding work all around your design is really proven its strength.