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42s , pro m meter , fuel reg , aeromotive 340 in tank and tune


Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
Why fuel regulator one more time? Is it so he can "dial it in by hand" so he can drive it to the tune shop? Mario you're getting a tune, you don't need an aftermarket regulator.
 
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42s get into that range where on startup the car will be super rich until it starts reading the o2s, even with a calibrated maf (there is a lag time). An afpr may be able to help trim this down some, at least enough to drive it to a tuner and get the startup sorted.

If you want to know what too much fuel in startup can do, look at RacEoHolic330's build thread.
 
Talk with your local tuner, see what he's familiar with because sooner or later you'll need some help (or at least a dyno tune) with it whether its a megasquirt, pms, quaterhorse, custom chip, holley efi, etc.

On that note, people have been running basic vortech setups for years on stock (tuned/chipped) ecus, as long as you're not exceeding its physical rpm limits (6500-7000) it works well, and is fairly adaptable. Aftermarket setups are better of course since most use a wideband o2 and faster hardware (and data logging), but with what you have it may be a bit overboard.
 
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Talk with your local tuner, see what he's familiar with because sooner or later you'll need some help (or at least a dyno tune) with it whether its a megasquirt, pms, quaterhorse, custom chip, holley efi, etc.

On that note, people have been running basic vortech setups for years on stock (tuned/chipped) ecus, as long as you're not exceeding its physical rpm limits (6500-7000) it works well, and is fairly adaptable. Aftermarket setups are better of course since most use a wideband o2 and faster hardware (and data logging), but with what you have it may be a bit overboard.
I'm running the Vortech v3 kit w the infamous fmu. Stock 95 ecu, sct chip and dyno tune. Runs strong drives w out issues. The a/f ratio is right on the mark. It wasn't prior to tuning but it wasn't off enough to cause driveability issues.
 
Should I plan on getting rid of pulley driven accessories?
An electric fan might be something to think about. Not so much in a horsepower since but just so you can control it when to come off and on. Then again the clutch fan might due you justice, maybe Some of the H/C/I fox guys will chime in w their experience w the stock fan. If you're a/c works I wouldn't mess with it by getting an "a/c delete kit." Whatever you do stay away from under drive pulleys, they're horrible. Pretty much steer clear off all mods that claim an increase in power due to less parasitic horsepower loss. They're another example of a gimmicky type mod.
Another thing that came to mind is you're gonna need colder spark plugs if you're gonna go w forced induction. I can't recall a part number off the top of my head. Just curious, how solid is the rest of the car? What's your suspension situation? Does it have the original clutch? What rearend gear does it have?
 
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Factory rear, factory AOD...I just bought some ford racing plug wires and new plugs(not sure specifics) but that was way before I dove in the deep end... Supercharger wasn't in the original plan just yet but I got a smokin deal (I think) on a brand new v3 sci... With that said I was just youtubing some stuff and they mentioned rear end not being worthy.
 
Why fuel regulator one more time? Is it so he can "dial it in by hand" so he can drive it to the tune shop? Mario you're getting a tune, you don't need an aftermarket regulator.
No so he can set it to 42psi like I was advised to by everyone who I asked about through my build . No disrepect man but this isn't my first rodeo setting up a blower car - or a boosted car etc .


Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
 
Factory rear, factory AOD...I just bought some ford racing plug wires and new plugs(not sure specifics) but that was way before I dove in the deep end... Supercharger wasn't in the original plan just yet but I got a smokin deal (I think) on a brand new v3 sci... With that said I was just youtubing some stuff and they mentioned rear end not being worthy.
if you are not pounding it at the drag strip it will hold up but its definitely gonna need gears ! if you are staying aod 373 . I have the stock 28 apline stuff with 355s and it held up to 435hp no Prob


Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
 
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Being 4 lug isn't the problem. 28spline stock rearend is a problem but only if you have sticky tires. I would run 3.55 or 3.73 years. The trans should have the proper mods to live and perform satisfactorily.
 
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No so he can set it to 42psi like I was advised to by everyone who I asked about through my build . No disrepect man but this isn't my first rodeo setting up a blower car - or a boosted car etc .


Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
None taken. I was under the impression that the computer would compensate for the fuel needs via tune (which is one of the factors one "needs a tune")and that the adjusstable regulator was just a "bandaid" these days to get the adequate fuel requirements. Is this not so? And who is everyone that did the advising, forum members or tuners?
 
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I have.
Hey all! I'm doing my first build and have a ton of questions as I'm a noob!
I'm building a 88 gt and so far have the following:
Trick flow twisted wedge fast as cast, bbk cold air, 97 explorer upper and lower, trick flow roller rockers, 24lb injectors, ford racing plug wires... All this is waiting for a throttle body, exhaust including headers and a a Megasquirt with o2 sensors as for I have speed density set up. I was told a speed density can make more hp and less headache than a mass air conversion, opinions or experiences on a density vs mass air? Also was told the made in Mexico factory blocks have a 700hp rating, truths? If so do you know of ways to ID what I have? Do you think a 65mm tbody will be a good size? I'm targeting 375-400hp. I'm new and inexperienced so I'm asking in efforts to learn and hope you guys will go easy!
Thanks stangers!
Mario
I have a 91 gt with 373 gears gt 40 upper and lower intake 65mm throttle body with egr delete 24lb injectors with 98 cobra mass air and cold air intake, 2 flow masters and belly piped. Got more planned
 
None taken. I was under the impression that the computer would compensate for the fuel needs via tune (which is one of the factors one "needs a tune")and that the adjusstable regulator was just a "bandaid" these days to get the adequate fuel requirements. Is this not so? And who is everyone that did the advising, forum members or tuners?
computer trims fuel distribution through the injectors but does not affect base pressure . I know there is a reason for the higher base pressure as all my friends do this and even Kris asked me when I had the car tuned if I had it set there .


Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
 
computer trims fuel distribution through the injectors but does not affect base pressure . I know there is a reason for the higher base pressure as all my friends do this and even Kris asked me when I had the car tuned if I had it set there .


Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
Its because it gives a slightly higher lb/hr rating to whichever set you're using, meaning less duty cycle for that power level. The right size injectors at the stock 39psi would do the same thing, but the larger you go from the stock 19lb injectors, the more it needs to be tuned, calibrated maf or not. 42s are a pretty significant step up from stock.