First mod that is cheapest?
- Thread starter JuggalotuStang
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I vote for sub frame connectors, cat-back (not flowmaster), underdrive pullies, maybe even synthetic oils, stuff like that. I wouldn't change the gears unless your auto, just my opinion.
PonyGrl420
Founding Member
gears are a good bang for the buck mod. Exhaust is good too, wount give you as much go but a mustang with good exhust sounds sooooo good.
Is it auto or manual? If its auto a shift kit will help a lot.
Is it auto or manual? If its auto a shift kit will help a lot.
oldskolbus
Founding Member
Qwk88LX
Member
Cheap beginning mods
-Yank the air silencer out (free)
-Put in a K&N (40, or do a cold air, no HP gain really, but it looks good)
-FMS 9mm plug wires, or MSD (50-80, dramatic diff if you still have stock wires like I did- of course do cap, rotor, and good plugs at this time)
-Crane PS-91 coil (50, might make diff, hard to say, I noticed a little)
-Bump timing from 10 degrees BTDC to ~13 BTDC (free, unless you don't have a timing light- get one)
-Check your TPS voltage (free, unless you don't have a multimeter- get one)
-Don't bother with synthetics, expensive and no point when you have a high mileage motor. I like Valvoline 20-50 VR-1 Racing, but I also in in SoCal where it rarely gets cold enough to be an issue.
-Gears are a big bang for the buck, (90-199, plus install, don't try it at home) I like 3.55 for a street car. Unless you race often, 3.73's will just waste more gas and make your car less fun on trips.
-After the gears is a great time to do a good shifter, lets you enjoy your new gears more.
- I would definately do exhaust next, price really ranges here, I have ~700.00 in my exhaust...
Have fun!
-Yank the air silencer out (free)
-Put in a K&N (40, or do a cold air, no HP gain really, but it looks good)
-FMS 9mm plug wires, or MSD (50-80, dramatic diff if you still have stock wires like I did- of course do cap, rotor, and good plugs at this time)
-Crane PS-91 coil (50, might make diff, hard to say, I noticed a little)
-Bump timing from 10 degrees BTDC to ~13 BTDC (free, unless you don't have a timing light- get one)
-Check your TPS voltage (free, unless you don't have a multimeter- get one)
-Don't bother with synthetics, expensive and no point when you have a high mileage motor. I like Valvoline 20-50 VR-1 Racing, but I also in in SoCal where it rarely gets cold enough to be an issue.
-Gears are a big bang for the buck, (90-199, plus install, don't try it at home) I like 3.55 for a street car. Unless you race often, 3.73's will just waste more gas and make your car less fun on trips.
-After the gears is a great time to do a good shifter, lets you enjoy your new gears more.
- I would definately do exhaust next, price really ranges here, I have ~700.00 in my exhaust...
Have fun!
On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...
Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100-$200 or so to complete the brake upgrade.
94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. You need a $25-$35 flange adapter from Pro-M to fit the stock air ducting. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1
95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.
3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$80. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.
Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.
*1.) Pro-M has revised their website lately, but here's what I found.
http://performancepartsmall.com/detail.asp?id=224 plastic adapter
http://performancepartsmall.com/detail.asp?id=223 metal adapter.
I got a metal one from Powered by Ford for $35 and tax. That was about a year ago.
Powered By Ford
1516 South Division Avenue
Orlando, FL 32805
Hours 0800-1800
Phone 407-843-3673
Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100-$200 or so to complete the brake upgrade.
94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. You need a $25-$35 flange adapter from Pro-M to fit the stock air ducting. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1
95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.
3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$80. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.
Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.
*1.) Pro-M has revised their website lately, but here's what I found.
http://performancepartsmall.com/detail.asp?id=224 plastic adapter
http://performancepartsmall.com/detail.asp?id=223 metal adapter.
I got a metal one from Powered by Ford for $35 and tax. That was about a year ago.
Powered By Ford
1516 South Division Avenue
Orlando, FL 32805
Hours 0800-1800
Phone 407-843-3673
SuperStang83
Founding Member
MustangMulch
New Member
Definitely do gears next. 3.73's will be perfect. Don't listen to people about gas mileage, you really won't notice much difference, but you will notice a huge difference in your cars performance.
Qwk88LX
Member
I agree with the rest, gears first.
HOWEVER, don't bother with exhaust. It's not gonna get you any more power on a stock 5.0, and is a HUGE waste of cash performance wise. Granted that's the first thing I did, but if you're on a strict budget and want nothing but speed from your mods, exhaust won't do it.
I also wouldn't waste too much time on the intake either. Without heads and cam, a better intake isn't gonna get you your $500's worth that you're gonna spend (unless you locate that explorer intake)
people tend to overmod their cars before they adress the basics. My friends hitting 13.7's on a heavy ass 89 vert with 240k original miles and bone stock long block including intake.
here is what will get you into the 13's
1. Gears.
2. REAR CONTROL ARMS --what use is that power if you can't get it to the ground??
3. drag radials or slicks.
4. all the other cheapies after that. Air filter, timing, under drive pullies etc.
you can hit the 13's without ever changing your throttle body/maf/intake/injectors or cam.
HOWEVER, don't bother with exhaust. It's not gonna get you any more power on a stock 5.0, and is a HUGE waste of cash performance wise. Granted that's the first thing I did, but if you're on a strict budget and want nothing but speed from your mods, exhaust won't do it.
I also wouldn't waste too much time on the intake either. Without heads and cam, a better intake isn't gonna get you your $500's worth that you're gonna spend (unless you locate that explorer intake)
people tend to overmod their cars before they adress the basics. My friends hitting 13.7's on a heavy ass 89 vert with 240k original miles and bone stock long block including intake.
here is what will get you into the 13's
1. Gears.
2. REAR CONTROL ARMS --what use is that power if you can't get it to the ground??
3. drag radials or slicks.
4. all the other cheapies after that. Air filter, timing, under drive pullies etc.
you can hit the 13's without ever changing your throttle body/maf/intake/injectors or cam.
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