Progress Thread Flghtmstr1's 700 Rwhp Build

Discussion in '1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-' started by Flghtmstr1, Sep 3, 2010.

  1. Flghtmstr1

    Flghtmstr1 Member

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    Work and life has been incredibly busy, so I haven't been able to spend a whole lot of time on the build recently. Nonetheless, I have been able to make some progress. Here are the latest updates:

    I installed the transmission:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Followed by the blower:
    [​IMG]
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    I hope the hood clears!
    [​IMG]

    Installed a new starter (a "while you're in there" decision):
    [​IMG]

    Followed by the collectors. I had Meineke weld in an O2 sensor bung for my LC1 wideband on the driver's side:
    [​IMG]

    On the passenger's side, the collector had to be rotated in order to fit, and I had to grind the transmission a bit so there would be enough room for the O2 sensor on that side:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I also noticed that the weight of the transmission caused the engine to shift on its mounts, making the oil pan touch the K-member. I used a Sawzall to clearance the K-member, and sprayed the area with rustoleum to prevent corrosion:
    [​IMG]

    Next, I installed my driveshaft loop.
    [​IMG]

    I had to remove the front seats and peel back the carpeting to tighten the bolts. You can also see the 8 gauge wire I ran from the fuse box to the trunk for my fuel system:
    [​IMG]

    Unfortunately, I forgot to take pictures of the new tank, pumps, or wiring. After running the feed line up to the engine bay and installing the fuel rails, I discovered some interference between the new intake elbow and the fuel rail. I had to grind both down to make everything fit:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The next problem was finding a place to put the fuel pressure regulator. The instructions said to put the regulator on the driver's side strut tower, but there wasn't enough hood clearance. Instead, I decided to use the fuel rail pressure sensor port:
    [​IMG]

    Doing so necessitated removing the EGR system:
    [​IMG]

    And that's where I am now. I still have to run the return line back to the tank, put the x-pipe on, and plug in all engine bay wires / connectors before I can start the car. I'll keep you all posted; it should be soon!
     
    #61
  2. tank_567

    tank_567 Active Member

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    Looking good!
     
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  3. Stumbaugh

    Stumbaugh Member

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    Very nice.
     
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  4. CobraRed_96_GT

    CobraRed_96_GT Active Member

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  5. Flghtmstr1

    Flghtmstr1 Member

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    Update: I tried to start the car yesterday, and the starter never clicked on or attempted to turn over the engine. It's a brand new starter, so I'm thinking I forgot to plug something in or wired something incorrectly. If anyone has ideas, I'm all ears. Is wmburns still on this site? I could really use a factory wiring diagram. Also, can anyone tell me off the top of their head what is attached to their engine mount grounds? All I have at the moment is a chassis ground strap on the driver's side, but I seem to remember there being other things when I pulled the engine.
     
    #65
  6. tank_567

    tank_567 Active Member

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    Make sure the red wire goes to the fuse box and the black gets ground to the car, can take more pics of the wiring harness if needed

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    #66
  7. Flghtmstr1

    Flghtmstr1 Member

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    Thanks Tank! The red wire is connected to the fuse box, and the black ring terminal is grounded to a lug on the front cover. Would it be possible for you to take more photos of the positive (red) side of that harness? I want to see what other connectors are up there.
     
    #67
  8. Flghtmstr1

    Flghtmstr1 Member

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    #68
  9. Flghtmstr1

    Flghtmstr1 Member

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    After almost two years of work, I finally started the car tonight! The initial start-up tune is very rough, but it was close enough to get the car to idle for a while and get a good data log:




    I'm running open cats because the down pipes don't fit around the transmission (fail on my part) . I'm going to have an exhaust shop modify them so they fit, but first I have to get the car to the point where it's driveable.

    Ever wonder what cats look like inside as they're working?


    Next steps are to wait for Jon Lund to modify the tune so it's driveable, and then drive it directly to the dyno.

    EDIT: If you're interested, I posted the resolution to the no-crank problem in this thread: http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/mustang-new-engine-wont-start.855095/.
     
    #69
  10. usaf_branham

    usaf_branham Member

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    awesome. what is your idle rpm set at??? 300 :eek:

    I have been watching your build for a while. Im VERY curious to see what kind of numbers you make.
     
    #70
  11. Flghtmstr1

    Flghtmstr1 Member

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    I don't know what the target idle speed was set to, but it was idling at about 500 - 550 rpm.
     
    #71
  12. Stumbaugh

    Stumbaugh Member

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    Congrats on getting to hear it run. I can't imagine your excitement.
     
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  13. Flghtmstr1

    Flghtmstr1 Member

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    Thanks, you're right. I've been on cloud 9 all day.
     
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  14. Winters98GT

    Winters98GT Whoop...whoop-whoop-whoop-whoop...GANGNAM STYLE!!!
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    Get that tune dialed in! Congrats on the build, I don't frequent here much except for the "squeaky wheel" section on stangnet, but I have been following your build.

    Just curious, why so much smoke? I know you said the idle is way low, is the car dumping a ton of fuel, header coating heating up, etc? That's a lot of smoke and I would just want to pinpoint that everything is ok. Good luck, and keep us updated!
     
    #74
  15. Flghtmstr1

    Flghtmstr1 Member

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    I think it was just dumping a lot of fuel; the smoke went away when the cats lit off (as the third video shows).
     
    #75
  16. tank_567

    tank_567 Active Member

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    Updates?
     
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  17. Flghtmstr1

    Flghtmstr1 Member

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    Nothing yet. I'm still waiting for Jon to send me the modified tune. I emailed him on Wednesday asking if there were any updates, and he said "Yes when I get thru the other 250 emails... Sit tight I will get to it". Jon seems to have become a victim of his own success, as he's so busy he's apparently not even accepting new customers right now. It is frustrating having to wait like this, but in the scheme of things, a few extra days are nothing.
     
    #77
  18. tank_567

    tank_567 Active Member

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    I know what you mean, im going through the same stuff right now with my engine, I hope its done next week.....
     
    #78
  19. Flghtmstr1

    Flghtmstr1 Member

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    Update:

    Bad news everybody. I discovered that my intercooler core (inside the intake manifold) has been leaking coolant into the intake manifold (and therefore, into the cylinders). One of the o-rings that seals the tubes carrying coolant through the wall of the intake manifold had an entire section missing:

    [​IMG]

    Now, I have to remove the blower, remove any coolant that has collected in the intake manifold's valley, pull all the plugs, blow out each cylinder, run a compression test to make sure I didn't bend any valves / cause other damage, and put everything back together.

    It's always the little things...
     
    #79
  20. Flghtmstr1

    Flghtmstr1 Member

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    Turns out everything is okay. Cleaned the water out of the intake manifold, replaced all four o-rings, installed fresh oxygen sensors, and started the car. It runs fine now, and it even moved under its own power today (for the first time in almost 2 years)! So now it's back to waiting for a new tune from Jon. I'll keep you all posted.
     
    #80
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