Flooding Gas or Harmonic Balancer

[Strype]

Hey guys,

My 93 (5 speed, 66k) was running great after the H/C/I install last year. The problem was that my timing was either set at or skipped to 30*. I can't remember. I upped the fuel pressure to 50psi like an idiot.

The car started backfiring. I brought timing back down to 14ish (realizing it was at 30*). I also dropped the fuel pressure back down at the same time. It hasn't run since.

It sputters and backfires through the intake. Blows through plugs just going down the street. Smelled oil and it smells like gas.

I have found a couple of of posts on some forum that says it's one of 2 things:

1) The harmonic balancer is toast
2) Way too much gas is causing such a high initial timing because it takes longer to burn it all.
(My friends and I suspect that I blew the diaphragm on the FPR.)

Cam was installed dot to dot. No leaks that I can find. Vacuum lines are snug but not clamped.

Can anyone think of anything else before I blow money on another Adjustable FPR and a Harmonic Balancer? Am I on the right track here or am I missing something more obvious?

Thanks as always,

Strype

PS: This car has been sitting for almost a year since it was last driven. It either gets fixed or I trade it in pieces at the swap meet for a nice comfortable chair.

 

[BlackGT89]

If the diaphram in the FP Regulator has ruptured you should be able to tell by just pulling the vacuum line off and seeing if it's sucking gas up through it. If the hose is dry inside then you should be okay.

A bad harmonic balancer will just give you a heck of a lot of vibration related to engine RPM.

If you've had backfires there is a good chance you may have blown some vacuum lines off somewhere, so check them all. I just found a vacuum leak on my car the other day under the upper intake. Listen for hissing sounds, it sounds crazy but I found my leak by just using a flexible vacuum cleaner hose up to one ear and it worked like a charm...

 

[Strype]

If the diaphram in the FP Regulator has ruptured you should be able to tell by just pulling the vacuum line off and seeing if it's sucking gas up through it. If the hose is dry inside then you should be okay.

A bad harmonic balancer will just give you a heck of a lot of vibration related to engine RPM.

If you've had backfires there is a good chance you may have blown some vacuum lines off somewhere, so check them all. I just found a vacuum leak on my car the other day under the upper intake. Listen for hissing sounds, it sounds crazy but I found my leak by just using a flexible vacuum cleaner hose up to one ear and it worked like a charm...

We were just discussing that - And I found gas in a vacuum line on the intake. I will check that tonight!

We have a couple of thoughts... All dealing with vacuum. The thing is dumping gas somewhere and it keeps fouling out pistons so it's either timing, fuel or vacuum I'd like to think.

 

[Strype]

Hose is dry and it's not fuel in the intake, it's oil. Harmonic balancer seems ok since I see no fuel in that hose. This car was doing this bucking and spitting and dieing BEFORE the h/c/i job just not this bad. You can't even get it out of the driveway now. Timing is at 12. Fuel pressure is at 40.

Computer?

Do these cars have crank sensors?

Will dumping the codes tell me anything?

The car was running fine until I lowered the timing and upped the fuel pressure. Ran fine at 30 deg

 

[foxbodymike87]

Harmonic balancer seems ok since I see no fuel in that hose.

What do you mean? isnt the harmonic balancer the crankshaft pulley??

 

[jrichker]

No crank sensor on a 79-95 5.0 Mustang.

Dump the codes. Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.

Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Post the codes you get and I will post 86-93 model 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes. I do not have a complete listing for 94-95 model 5.0 Mustangs at this time.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. On a manual transmission car, be sure to press the clutch to the floor.
Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.

If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and driveablity problems

Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off, and clutch (if present) is pressed to the floor, and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/p-7208-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx– It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

 

[jdwyer25]

Sounds like the time is off and the sputtering and back firing is the residual fuel burning off. If you aren't sure if you set the timing to 30 or if it jumped I would make sure your timing is good. I would suggest pulling the timing cover and making sure the chain didn't jump and then make sure that you have the distributor stabbed right.

 

[keesor]

Also, the balancer can spin and you may not notice any vibration. I had one do that. I would recommend putting the #1 cylinder at TDC and then see if the timing mark on the balancer lines up with the timing pointer. If it's way off then you probably spun your balancer.

 

[jrichker]

Some help fo finding TDC...

TDC location process courtesy of Michael Yount
If you're trying to find ACTUAL TDC for cam installation/degreeing or check balancer timing mark accuracy, follow the steps below:

Positive stop – obtain an old spark plug for the Ford engine – most of us have at least one laying around. Put it in your vice, and with a tool of destruction you deem appropriate – cut off the ground tip and bust up the ceramic around the center electrode. Keep pounding to get the ceramic and center electrode removed so you’ve got a good ¾” or so of hollow space inside what used to be the ‘business’ end of the spark plug. If you happen to break the ceramic on the other end of the spark plug, don’t worry about it. Once you’ve got a nice hollow space in the tip of the plug, take a 5/16” tap, and cut threads inside that end of the plug. I found that diameter to go right in without any drilling required. Once you’ve cut threads, screw in a 5/16" bolt about 1.5” to 2” long. Then take your hack saw and cut the head off the bolt. Wouldn’t hurt to take your file/grinder and dress up the freshly cut surface so no sharp edges or shrapnel enter the combustion chamber. Also clean up the threads on the plug so that it easily screws into and out of the plug hole.

Determining TDC – remove the passenger side valve cover. Rotate the engine (socket on crank bolt) until the #1 piston is down the cylinder on the intake stroke. Unscrew the spark plug in that cylinder, and replace it with the positive stop you just made. Only screw the positive stop in hand tight. Install your cam degree wheel and pointer (no easy task in some cases as harmonic balancer and other accessories will have to be removed). You may want to remove all spark plugs at this point because it will make it easier to smoothly turn the engine over in small increments. GENTLY rotate the engine clockwise until the piston comes to rest against the stop. Note the degree wheel reading. GENTLY rotate the engine in the opposite direction until the piston comes to rest against the stop. Note the degree wheel reading. TDC is exactly half way between these readings. Calculate where that position is on the degree wheel, remove the piston stop from the cylinder, and rotate the engine to TDC as you calculated it.

 

[ebiggs1]

Are you sure you have the firing order correct? Have someone else check it. You'd be surprise how easy it is to overlook a mistake you've made. I bet this is a timing thing caused by incorrect firing order. Also make sure you have number one in the correct place.