Forced rebuild do I add a cage or not

Old Skooler

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Feb 27, 2012
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Before thanksgiving I had a slight mishap and blew my 347 built by the PO. So instead of doing a full suspension and break upgrade I'm rebuilding my motor. The new combo will be a 383, AFR 225 heads, victor jr intake, demon 750, tremic 5 speed, 9" rear with 410,s nitrous xpress 250 shot.

My real question is do I cage the car? This is a street car lowered suspension and I will be riding on 10th anniversary cobra rims. The nearest track is 5 hours away and I don't own a trailer so the odds of me actually running this more than 1 or 2 at the track is slim. The only reason why I'm considering it is because this will be a low to mid 9second car and safety applies on the street but are there any other benefits? Is it worth the money to cage a street car? Ay other questions about the combo just ask.
 
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Well I'll offer my opinion. No disrespect intended. I understand the need for speed, I really do. But it sounds like a lot of motor and power adder to just play on the street. I mean you sacrifice reliability greatly for no real purpose. Does it need a cage? Yes. It would structurally improve the car not to mention the safety aspect of it. Why not build a 306 with a super charger so you can drive it to the track and back? You'll have more fun and be able to enjoy it any day you want.
 
Well I'll offer my opinion. No disrespect intended. I understand the need for speed, I really do. But it sounds like a lot of motor and power adder to just play on the street. I mean you sacrifice reliability greatly for no real purpose. Does it need a cage? Yes. It would structurally improve the car not to mention the safety aspect of it. Why not build a 306 with a super charger so you can drive it to the track and back? You'll have more fun and be able to enjoy it any day you want.

How would a 306 with a supercharger be more reliable? I think i know the reason why he wants a big motor with nitrous. Cause its fun, plain and simple.

If you are never really going to go to the track i think the cage is pointless personally. It will stiffen up the car, but it will also be a hazard if you ever get into an accident. I had an 8 pt, and i didnt really worry about it much, but when i converted he cage to a 10pt 8.50 legal cage, i saw the danger of having the bar right above your head. It is very close with stock seats. I put kirkeys in my car and now its not as bad.

I would put a thru the floor subframe connector in the car to stiffen it up some, and reinforce the torque boxes. When you go to the track, make a few 1/8th mile passes, then on the last run, make a full pass. Realistically, even if you do get the cage and the car runs in the nines, you will get kicked out for not having a competition license anyways, and seeing as the closest track is 5 hours from you, odds are you wont get the NHRA licence cause it'd be a waste of money if you only race once a year.
 
I get it, build what your into. I'm looking forward to following it. Do the cage! Its added rigidity and added safety. Not bashing your driving skills, but this one sounds like it will be a bigger beast than your last. If it happens to surprise you, you'll be a whole lot safer. Besides, with the cnc tubing benders, the cost has been reduced greatly. 20 years ago it was a guy bending it off a floor bender and trying to recreate each bend. Now they can place the tubing into the jig and the machine bends it according to pre-programed spec. Go with mild steel, its alot more forgiving and will alow for a less experienced welder to add to it. Chromoly tends to get brittle with poor or excessive welding. Good luck and let us know how it comes out.
 
Sounds like a bad ass build! I know you didn't ask this, but if you're going to do a stroker Windsor, there is no reason not to go 408, unless someone is giving you the 383 parts for cheap or free.

Like 90lxcoupe said, I don't see the need for a full cage in it if you're never going to track it. Just don't be stupid and wad the car up at 120. Word of advice, having a hooked up nitrous system on the street is illegal in a lot of places. Check your local laws and be smart!
 
I think if the motor is built right, nitrous will be pretty dangerous on the street. My car has been 9.93 at 136 at the track on a 150 shot, i tested the nitrous on the street, and it is way too violent, i rolled into third gear, went to WOT, when the nitrous hit the car was moving out, and i had to drive the sh it out of it to keep it straight. Im used to fast cars, and that was just too risky for me, one piece of sand or something stupid in the road and you are totally fuc ked.
 
Cage will make car stiffer. True. Car will be safer on street. Opinion. If you do a cage do padding too. In tests the padding hasn't been enough but, some is better than none if you bump your noggin.
 
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I would do at least a four point roll bar, and maybe some low slung door bars. Not 9 second legal, but will stiffen up the car, and the padded hoop above the seats will give you crash protection if you lose it and roll in a ditch or something. The chances of hitting your head behind your seats is slim, and if your head makes it back there it would be crushed by the roof in the event of a roll over and youre lights out for sure anyway. Just my $.02.
 
All valid opinions I decided to go with the 383 because everything was available at a buddies shop left over from someone who ran out of money before finishing the build. Same with the heads. Truth be told this set up is a little crazier than I wanted but the price is right, so why not. I don't plan on juging it on the street much, its more for when I do hit the track. I was kicking around an 8 point cage but getting in and out of the car maybe an issue.

I'm looking at brake up grades also so any advise would be appreciated. I' ll post up pice soon
 
Ditch the cage idea and just install thru the floor subframe connectors. After that the car will be as stiff if not more so than if you had only an 8 point. Further more if you ever install the cage later you have better points to land the bars on. Ie not just sheetmetal.