You are talking about the trim that goes around the frame for the window, right? And not the belt moulding?
Paint and Body Fox Body Painting 101
- Thread starter Davedacarpainter
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If you are talking about the aluminum "cap" that sits on the door frame around the window glass, that just peels off. It's held on simply from a tight fit. I just got a screw driver under an edge, and started prying it off a little at a time.
If your talking about the drop rail, it's held on with a couple of screws at the front back edge ( i think) if that is the case, after the screws are removed, that trim sits on the pinch weld and is held on with little friction clips,..it just pulls off.
That's plastic and I have already taken care of that.
It's the metal trim around the sides and top of the door window frame. It looks a lot like the metal trim around the top and sides of the windshield.
In that case, what mike said.
I would pry lightly(relatively) out from the window side with your fingers. Start at one end, once it's started, you can do like mike says and slip a screw driver under it and walk it the rest of the way off.
Post a picture, if you wouldn't mind. It would be good for people to see how it comes off.
View: https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1876942362527245&id=1530876717133813
Check out this paint job Dave
I noticed 2 things:
1.) The painter does a very good job of consistently maintaining the same distance between the tip of the spray gun and the surface being painted.
2.) The painter maintains the same speed and timing as he sweeps the spray gun over what he is spraying.
That means steady hands and don't be in a hurry. Don't paint when you are hung over, have had too much caffeine, or having a nicotine fit...
Of course, you could say that about almost anything that requires concentration and a clear mind...
1.) The painter does a very good job of consistently maintaining the same distance between the tip of the spray gun and the surface being painted.
2.) The painter maintains the same speed and timing as he sweeps the spray gun over what he is spraying.
That means steady hands and don't be in a hurry. Don't paint when you are hung over, have had too much caffeine, or having a nicotine fit...
Of course, you could say that about almost anything that requires concentration and a clear mind...
Uhm, his style of painting is different than mine. Really can't say much more. It may work for him.
No offense Joe, but he pulls right to left quicker than left to right.
I don't really like critiquing other painters too much unless they are the ones asking me too. Or they're just clowns that i want to ridicule.
That's were a practiced eye picks up things that the rest of us don't notice...
Looks like it should work; the hard part is getting a weather tight electrical connection where the PIP sensor inside the distributor connects to the TFI module.I have a @jrichker might possibly answer question.
Can I make my own tfi relocation kit ?
Like splicing/extending the OE pigtails etc?
Sorry Dave, last derail I'll do for a while
Thought I'd share a question I had for Dave today, that may help someone else. I was going over each panel on the car, looking for blemishes and anything I might have missed. The car will be a daily driver, not a show car, but, the car is black and we know how that will magnify every flaw. After wet sanding, I found a low spot on the door by wetting the panel with wax and grease remover. I asked Dave, if I filled the spot with glazing putty, would the black base coat hide the repair or should I shoot the repair with primer. Dave said the filler would absorb the paint and leave an obvious stain. So primer over filler, even if the repair is very small. Thanks Dave, I appreciate it 
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When painting trim and trim like parts. What would you suggest? Sem?
In my application I need to reprint the entire t-top frame area, all of it was painted body color. I'm worried sem won't be very resistant to the constant removing and installing of the t tops.
With my car going back to black... I shouldn't just paint it with the rest should I?
In my application I need to reprint the entire t-top frame area, all of it was painted body color. I'm worried sem won't be very resistant to the constant removing and installing of the t tops.
With my car going back to black... I shouldn't just paint it with the rest should I?
You can, but the t-tops were a matte (ish) finish though.
I would go ahead and use the SEM stuff. If you happen to scratch it, it's an easy fix.
Ok, really thinking of using this.
Says it's dtm and sandible for top coat. Seems real good for a budget job
Thoughts
http://www.tamcopaint.com/hpdtmgr2kprw.html
Says it's dtm and sandible for top coat. Seems real good for a budget job
Thoughts
http://www.tamcopaint.com/hpdtmgr2kprw.html
Sounds fine to me. I would definitely reduce it though. It says that it could be made into a sealer by reduction alone. I wouldn't if i were you. Primers are more porous and don't have the necessary resins to be a real sealer. Just as a primer though, sure.
