I have a 87 gt 5 speed. I am encountering a overheating issue with the car. I have a sve aluminum radiator. Dual sve electric fans . I never had problems with the factory stock cooling fan and radiator. I just wanted to upgrade. Well i try to grt the car out for the first time this year and it overheats now. I have changed thermostat and verified that it opens and closes. Burped system for about 20 minutes. It still overheated. Climbing to the 260ish mark. I was readong that the fans i got only push 1867 cfm combined. Is this mot enough ? What does the factory fan push.?
Foxbody Overheating Issue
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mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
260 is way too high man. That can cause some damage. Dont drive it until you fix this or you could pop a HG or worse.
does it overheat at idle or in stop and go, or at highway speed. If while idling or stop and go, it is your fan or water pump. if at highway speed, then it it is an airflow problem- radiator, front air dam.
Yes- 1867 cfm is not enough to cool down your car. I would highly recommend if your car is N/A to get a single Contour or MkVII fan They will pull more cfm than any aftermarket fan and are OEM and cheaper. With any E fan, you must upgrade to a 3g alternator.
Couple of questions
does it overheat at idle or in stop and go, or at highway speed. If while idling or stop and go, it is your fan or water pump. if at highway speed, then it it is an airflow problem- radiator, front air dam.
Yes- 1867 cfm is not enough to cool down your car. I would highly recommend if your car is N/A to get a single Contour or MkVII fan They will pull more cfm than any aftermarket fan and are OEM and cheaper. With any E fan, you must upgrade to a 3g alternator.
Couple of questions
- what fan controlller- what temp do the fans come on
- what temp thermostat
- what is your motor setup
- sure all the air is out of the system
- hoses are not collapsing?
- does the temp rise right away or after a few minutes... at idle or when driving
Yeah i didnt think it was enough cfm. Do you know the factory cfm ? And it will rise to like 235 at idle and higher soon as i get moving.
I have the fan controller from lmr. Its set st 150ish
Tstat is 160 degree
Motor setup is gt40 intake and heads i was told. Cai ud pullies and msd coil .
Not a hundred percent sure on air out of system. How long should i burp it for .
No hoes collapsing as i see. And
It will continue to eise from a cold start might take a few mknutes but will get hot. I think its the fans because it was fine before i swapped rad and fans . And dod you mean a mark 7 or 8 fan.
I have the fan controller from lmr. Its set st 150ish
Tstat is 160 degree
Motor setup is gt40 intake and heads i was told. Cai ud pullies and msd coil .
Not a hundred percent sure on air out of system. How long should i burp it for .
No hoes collapsing as i see. And
It will continue to eise from a cold start might take a few mknutes but will get hot. I think its the fans because it was fine before i swapped rad and fans . And dod you mean a mark 7 or 8 fan.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
- factory clutch fan pulls around 3000cfm and is very effective. put it back on unless you get a decent E fan
- 235 at idle means your fans are not pulling enough cfm
- Are you sure you have all the air out of the system.- get a Lisle funnel and burp it until there are no more bubbles.. That is probaly causing a lot of your problems.
- 160 stat is too low- it has nothing to do with controllling the temp on your car- it will open at 160 which is too low and not allow the coolant to stay in the block long enough to soak up the heat and also wont allow the car to reach optimum temp to take it out of open loop- you car will actually run worse- put the stock 192 back in unless you run a blower. That is what Ford designed
- you cant see a collapse hose. the spring in the lower hoses often gets old and allows the hose to collapse. When the car is warmed up grab the lower hose- if it is a lot colder than the upper then it is collapses. It should be somewhat cooler but not cold.
- get rid of the UD pullies- they slow down your water pump and make the car run hotter. They are not worth the 5hp at 4500 repm
- I meant MKVIII fan- what controller are you running. LMR is not a model. They are a vendor. Yoru setting is to low. The dan should come on at around 180 ish. Coming on at 150 again keeps your coolant and engine from reaching operating temp and willl cause it to run worse
Bottom line- your engine runs better when hot- 180-195. That is what Ford designed. Run it too cold and your motor is not as effiicient and will get worse mpg and performance.Did someone tell you to put on UD pulleys , 160 stat, and those fans or did you read that on some FB page? Those are some of the most common mistakes newbs make.
I will mess with it tmrw after work. I will try and burp it again. Any time lenght i should try and burp it for. Also the eletric fans i got in a real good deal. Ud pullies were on when my dad bought the car 5 years a go and the tstat was pjt on because my dather in law told me to run it . His 65 has a 160 in it .
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Pulled everything off radiator fans tstst and housing. Went to store and got a oem ford 195 tstat i believe. Im going to install it tmrw and let it sit for 24 hours. In the mean time while it sits i have a single electric fan i am putting in front of the radiator and putting the stock fan clutch back on. Hopefully this solves my problems.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
- The thermostat should have the temp stamped on it.test it first in boiling water before installling.
- do not install a pusher fan along with the stock clutch fan.it will actually work against thestock fan.
Go back and read my posts and check the other items, burp the system with a Lisle funnel and remove the UD pulleys.
Mike has the answers.
The Lincoln Mark VIII fan if I remember correctly pulls 5000 cfm. It worked well but my cheap fan controller stopped working and then caused my motor to overheat and blew my head gaskets.
The cars computer needs the temp to be right in order for it to run at maximum efficiency. The temp sensor is telling the car that the motor is never coming up to the proper operating temperature.
For a stock thermostat that starts opening at 195 the setting to turn on the fan is at 210 - 220F. I don't know the differential setting of whatever controller you are using but it will usually shut the fan off 10 - 20 degrees lower than your setting. You also need a 130 amp or higher alternator.
If you're running U\D pulleys, look for the 1993 cobra water pump pulley. The 1993 Mustang Cobra came stock with a under drive pulley on the crank, but they had a over drive pulley on the water pump so that the water pump runs the stock\normal speed.
The Lincoln Mark VIII fan if I remember correctly pulls 5000 cfm. It worked well but my cheap fan controller stopped working and then caused my motor to overheat and blew my head gaskets.
The cars computer needs the temp to be right in order for it to run at maximum efficiency. The temp sensor is telling the car that the motor is never coming up to the proper operating temperature.
For a stock thermostat that starts opening at 195 the setting to turn on the fan is at 210 - 220F. I don't know the differential setting of whatever controller you are using but it will usually shut the fan off 10 - 20 degrees lower than your setting. You also need a 130 amp or higher alternator.
If you're running U\D pulleys, look for the 1993 cobra water pump pulley. The 1993 Mustang Cobra came stock with a under drive pulley on the crank, but they had a over drive pulley on the water pump so that the water pump runs the stock\normal speed.
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