Front Frame Rust. Is this save-able?
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Rusty67
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
I think you mean the stut rod mount. I would be very concerned if that was pulling away from the front core support. I think you should consider parking your car somewhere where you can leave it there and working on it over time. You need to repair that thing.
Rusty67
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
I believe it is held on by a number of spot welds. If the rust gets bad enough it will pull away.
Figured I would give you guys an update. The drive train (331, and the toploader) are going into an 89 LX notchback. Ill be putting new floorboards in that car within the next 2 weeks as my first project. I ended up going out and getting a mig gas welder. I figure that that will be a very nice first project to get me used to welding. From there, I will strip apart the 65, get it down to the front frame, and put in a new frame rail. I assume one side at a time, and taking many measurements. I figure taking out both sides at the same time is not very smart, as you loose all of your rigidity at once as well as marking spots. At least the heart of my 65 will be running in my 89.
Photo with removed rust to bare metal would be much more useful. If the upper part of the profile is good you can patch it; it's very simple I would say sat morning job. Just need a small mig and auto darkening helmet especially for first cca 10 spot welds to keep the sheet metal in place (then weld all around). No way you can do it with an electrode welder, mig is a must. Overall would cost you about 1/3 what you would pay to the body shop
i havent read what everyone has said but it looks very repairble. i wouldnt give up on her yet. i have the save rust out on mine. but yours looks better to be honest. they sell the bottom rails i belive so i would just have it replaced. i would pick up a welder like someone eles said and do it yourself. belive me you can weld with some practice. even if you take a quick class or have someone sit odwn and teach you. it would take to many man hours to fix. looks worse than it is. good luck we all have hit rough spots.
zookeeper
Founding Member
this is a pic of what i am dealing with, how bad do you guys thnk it is? fixable? or? ideas please.
That's not too hard to fix, all the parts are available, and if you take your time and make a good drawing of bolt locations BEFORE you start, you can do it yourself. That is assuming you can weld. I fixed a car with the exact same problem, and I'm no brain surgeon.
Well guys, heres the update:
I tracked down a local 89 mustang coupe that is clean except for the need for a new floor pan. I also purchased a mig that can run gas, and the new floorpan for that car. I'm going to remove the floorpans out of the 89, and weld in a new set. The motor and drivetrain out of the 65 will be going into that car. Once the motor is out of the 65, I'm planing on tackling the frame rail damage. Hopefully its fixable with patches, and the experience I get with the 89 will help me repair the 65. At that point, the 65 will probably get a stock block 5.0, and either a junkyard turbo set up, or as much nitrous as a stock 5.0 can take. Very basic motor set up that should run well and for not a ton of coin.
So heres my question: for tackling frame patches, do you need unhang all of the suspension? Also, since your welding the frame, and usually your using the frame for jack points, whats the best way to support the car now (keeping it as straight as possible)?
I tracked down a local 89 mustang coupe that is clean except for the need for a new floor pan. I also purchased a mig that can run gas, and the new floorpan for that car. I'm going to remove the floorpans out of the 89, and weld in a new set. The motor and drivetrain out of the 65 will be going into that car. Once the motor is out of the 65, I'm planing on tackling the frame rail damage. Hopefully its fixable with patches, and the experience I get with the 89 will help me repair the 65. At that point, the 65 will probably get a stock block 5.0, and either a junkyard turbo set up, or as much nitrous as a stock 5.0 can take. Very basic motor set up that should run well and for not a ton of coin.
So heres my question: for tackling frame patches, do you need unhang all of the suspension? Also, since your welding the frame, and usually your using the frame for jack points, whats the best way to support the car now (keeping it as straight as possible)?
zookeeper
Founding Member
If it were me, I'd support the car under the frame rails but behind the front suspension. Some where around the firewall would be fine. The make the frame rail part you're replacing level, by raising or lowering the rear end with a jack and supporting that with axle stands under the frame. I never rely on axle stands under the suspension when doing frame work because the first thing you know, someone will get into the car for some reason, bounce the suspension and there goes your "levelness". Anyway, place a level ( a "torpedo" level is fine) on the front frame rails (front-to-back) and the front crossmember (side-to-side) to make sure it's level, then measure the bumper bracket mounting holes on the frame as closely as you possibly can and make a nice drawing with every possible dimension. Measure from the bumper bolts to any point back on the frame rail (bolt, hole or anything you are leaving alone) to get the length right and you can't really go wrong. The frame extensions you buy are in two parts (inside and outside) so you can weld on both sides so you can grind the outside smooth and have it look factory. Don't forget to paint the inside with something rust resistant before you weld it together for good. Be thorough and be careful and it'll turn out nicer than if you had a collision shop/bondo palace do it at $70 an hour.
If I were replacing a frame rail in the absence of a chassis plate I would level the car and weld stands to the ends of the rockers (as far forward and back as possible). Then I would mark the placement of the car on the floor with a sharpie in case it gets bumped or something you can get it back to where it was. Then I would pick a bunch of reference points on the old frame rail and use a plumb bob to mark those spots on the floor as well as marking out reference points on the opposite frame/chassis. Then measure from the floor to the reference point on the rail, measure crossways, etc. You could even make a jig if you had time. If it's not a convertible you should be OK without bracing the car if you do one side at a time, but bracing never hurts, I guess. You should be able to get it in the ballpark this way. The car was probably never perfect even when new, so it may even be better. There used to be a guy on eBay who sold frame charts for Mustangs, not sure if they're still on there. There's also body assembly manuals available.
12sec67
Active Member
not gonna lie, its pretty bad in those spots but is repairable. It will be cheaper to go mustang 2 up front and get rid of the shock towers all together. Doing mustang 2 will also make it easier to replace the frame rails with all that crap out of the way.
cobra92usa
New Member
I wish I would have had that advice when my paint/body guy quoted me $6500 to do the paint/body/hood/ground effects on my car. Even after I told him the paint and materials alone would be 2/3rds that, easy. Didn't help that I had him do some "Xtras" like weld KB Matrix Brace and fill in all the extra holes in the engine compartment . . . yup . . . $6500 X 2 = THAT's ABOUT RIGHT !!
Wouldn't change a thing though . . . no regrets here.
