Front suspension idea

Sorry ROB, didn't see this thread come back up. You can buy just the K-member, or the arms alone. For both I think the cost is 7-800 ? I know guys have done that, then run fox or SN-95 stuff to their parts. Not sure if the arms you want would fit the k-member like you are thinking though. I've sold a few sets of K-members and arms, and they assemble the rest. Almost as many as complete kits.
 
  • Sponsors (?)


I've done something similar to what you guys are talking about. I too really liked the Griggs but the price is a little out of what I wanted to spend. I am putting in a 4.6 4V motor too so I needed to get rid of the towers. I am not crazy about the mustang II setup for what I was wanting. I am using the SN-95 spindle, fox rack, and a custom crossmember and towers. Really, you can make any track width you want. I set mine up a little wide since I am running FR500 wheels made for the SN95. The fox track width is almost exactly the same as the 67-70, but the fox spindles are not as nice. You can use '94-95 spindles which are the same track as the fox, but use the same brakes as the 96-04. If you are doing your own deal, you really need to pay attention to your geometry. I looked at a stock K-member suspension points for the lower and modified from there. I moved the lowers a little and designed a shock tower, upper a-arm, and a-arm adapter. I tried to use a standard round track style a-arm but ended up making the ones on the attachment.
The rack is moved a little bit from the stock sn-95 geometry. Personally, I would not go to strut design like the stock sn95. In my opinion, a strut design would be a step back from a modified stock sla setup.

so you have a k-member that holds the rack and LCA's, then the UCA's attach similar to stock at the base of the tower...with the top of tower removed to fit the mod motor? how bout some more pics, im still in the mental design stage(that means the shop is full of other projects right now)

i couldnt agree more about your strut vs sla opinion:nice:
 
Wow.

I'm going to have to come back and read this thread when my brain is working. I think I'll just print it out.

I'd wanted to do a rack and pinion steering on my 73 mustang, but gave up on that project and just purchased a rebuilt stock gearbox. The problem was the location of the engine bay crossmember.
 
Made my own uppers and lowers. For coil overs, I am using 7" stroke Pro Shocks, like a lot of roundy pounders use. They can be revalved easy and cheap if needed. Here are some pics that may better explain what I did. I laid it all out in 3D cad so I kind of cheated :). Still, I threw my first attempt in the trash. I tried to use off the shelf A-arms but I did not like how it turned out. I could make a deal to use the stock towers, but the upper a-arm would have to come down a bunch compared to the stock location. Plus, I designed everything with a pretty low ride height. I still have 4.5-5" of ground clearance at the rack, but the tires are tucked up in there.
 

Attachments

  • 100_4380.jpg
    100_4380.jpg
    73.2 KB · Views: 278
  • 100_4330.jpg
    100_4330.jpg
    68.6 KB · Views: 167
Nice work shawn-cds, looks like a combo of Mustang 2 crossmember meets stock car control arms meets a metal fab creator. I like the work, and thanks for the info, you just gave me more food for thought on the ideas swimming in my head.
 
I'm going to make a spring rate suguestion. If you are using a small block and decide to use a stock type setup with the upper arm and keep the spring in the stock location, don't use the 620s. I think they will be too harsh. If you have a big block in there and need the spring rate then go for it but otherwise go with a 500 or so spring rate. I have 620 1" drop springs in mine now and I'm going to change it out. They are too stiff and don't let the suspension do what suspension is supposed to do.