Front suspension problems

[ballajb64]

I am having front end suspension problems. When im on the freeway at high speeds and hit a bump car swerves. My steering also seems really loose, where as i speed up sometimes the wheel turns as if the alignment is off, but the car is still moving straight. What are somethings i can do to fix this?

here are some kits from mustang plus i was thinking about ordering, which one should i do or what do you think about them?

Mustang Parts from Mustangs Plus :: Suspension and Handling :: Spring & Handling Kits :: 1965-66 Grab-A-Trak® Performance Front Suspension & Handling Kit

Mustang Parts from Mustangs Plus :: Suspension and Handling :: Spring & Handling Kits :: 1965-66 Grab-A-Trak® Spring and Handling Kit

I dont think i need the rear as much but do you think these are good?

 

[rsweld]

Have you inspected all front end parts? Tie Rod Ends, Center Link Ball Joints, Idler Arm what about the backlash in the Steering Box?

 

[TeamEntity]

tires are the first thing i would look at no matter what type of suspension your getting. then check as stated all of the suspension components. if any have play, replace em. then check the steering box for excessive play.

 

[ballajb64]

I need to check those things out to make sure

 

[65 fastback]

My guess, is it's going to be due to the alignment. If you took it to a shop and had them do a stock alignment, the car will feel very twitchy and want to wonder a lot at highway speeds. If this sounds like what you are experiencing, go back and have the alignment set to the performance specifications:

The original stock alignment setting for '64 - '66 Mustangs are:
Caster: -0.5*
Camber: -0.5*
Toe-In: 9/32"

The Performance alignment settings for the "Shelby" drop are:
Caster: +1.5° to +2.5°
Camber: 0 to -.5°
Toe: 1/8"

The biggest difference being in the Caster setting. A positive Caster setting will help the car to track straighter and return to center more quickly after a corner. The easiest way to describe it would be to think of a bicycle and angle of the front wheel fork. If the fork that connects the handle bars to the front wheel were to be straight up and down (0 degrees Caster) you would constantly need to steer to keep the bike going in a straight line. Now if the front fork were installed at an angle (think chopper - Positive Caster), you could take your hands off of the handle bars and the bike would continue to track in a straight line.

 

[ballajb64]

Thanks for that I will look at my sheet for what they set the alignment for at the shop and post it along with taking it back and telling them to do the specs that you just put. Thanks for that info

 

[ballajb64]

Right now this is what my alignment is set at in total for the front:

Camber: .7
Caster: .9
Toe: .49

 

[65 fastback]

Right now this is what my alignment is set at in total for the front:

Camber: .7
Caster: .9
Toe: .49

I would ask them to give you 2* positive caster and see if it makes a difference.

 

[MitchGT]

Is .49 toe in inches? half an inch is wrong....an eight or so would be fine (.125).

 

[2+2GT]

Half-inch toe? Yikes! That would be massively too much with OE bias tires, and radials need even less! 1/8" or even a tad less is ideal.