"Frugal"(cheap) audiophiles...I have some questions.

Discussion in 'Mustang Sound & Shine All' started by reddy351, Jun 14, 2008.


  1. reddy351

    reddy351 New Member

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    I have done a search for my question. (Didn't really find an answer.) I see that there are a bunch of knowledgable types the check-in, here.

    I have a 1994 GT. I'm wondering, what (approx) is the cavity volume of the doors? My plan is to put 7"-8" woofers in the doors and on the rear deck. I would like to have an idea of the volume, so that I can (possibly) use that to help narrow my selection of drivers.
  2. reddy351

    reddy351 New Member

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    Oh well. Maybe I'm not in the "in" crowd, here. :shrug: This is the third time I've posted in the Sound Shop and have gotten no answers.

    Thanks so much for the help.
  3. 03TrueBlue

    03TrueBlue New Member

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    I dont know the volume. All I do is fully deaden the doors outer skin and then seal them as good as I can and deaden the the inner. all with at least 2 layers. I have used several 7" mids in the doors with good results, 8s might be a little tough being they are normally deeper. If I remember right 3" depth is just about as deep as you can go with a 3/4 adapter.
  4. 08blueskunk

    08blueskunk New Member

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    Your airspace inside your doors acts like a Ginormous space it is good for almost 3+ cubic feet. because it isn't very tight (big rattles and lots of metal. ) they do offer "open air subs" which work for these instances. if not i would suggest custom building speaker pods MDF and fiber glass, to give yourself some .5 cubic feet of space for a decent 8" driver. MTX made some decent open air drivers but that was awhile ago.
  5. ZakeriD

    ZakeriD Member

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    you need an "infinite baffle" sub. which will work well in an open air environment. i wouldn't mess with putting the subs in the doors, unless you want to "deaden" the doors heavily (more money).
  6. 08blueskunk

    08blueskunk New Member

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    A friend of mine did a nice setup with two 8" subs in his door, he used alot of sound deadening and sprayed over it all after, the truck sounded awesome.
  7. reddy351

    reddy351 New Member

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    I really appreciate the answers, guys! I never really considered an IB woofer. 3cf is a LOT of space. I do plan to dampen them, pretty good. I'm not going to go "hog wild", on it, though.

    To be clear, these are not going to be subs. I plan to cross them over as woofers/midbass. (80-500hz?) I like subs to be mounted to large, solid objects. I will probably run a single 8" or 10" sub. I just don't know where I'll put it, yet.

    Do IB woofers require more power, generally? I have 90wrms@4ohms x2 to play with. I was planning two 8ohm drivers wired in parallel per channel. I was hoping to find something that would work with about 75wrms/each.

    Thanks again, for the help!
  8. 08blueskunk

    08blueskunk New Member

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    my only concern is with the 8ohms. Most car audio will only be 2-4ohms. Same volume levels will need twice as much power.

    If your going with woofers, i would bridge the 2ch amp. and run it parallel to each sub. most IB 8" drivers will be SVC, 4ohms. so now it would double the power going to the drivers. And that 90w amp would be plenty for a sub setup.

    You wouldn't want stereo signal going to thos drivers.
  9. 03TrueBlue

    03TrueBlue New Member

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    You need to go to this forum and ask questions. These guys run 8 ohm drivers in their cars and I have also. There is a topic on 8 ohm drivers being just as loud as 4 ohm but I cant find it. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/index.php
  10. 08blueskunk

    08blueskunk New Member

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    you could run 8 ohms no problem but you would need to run them to a different amp.

    90wX2ch @ 4ohms= will be close to 150w Bridged @ 2ohms.
    but...
    (2x) 8 ohm parallel = 4 ohms
    to a bridged port on the = 90w because your hooking it to 4 ohms, split between the subs = 45w/sub =CACAPOOEE

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