fuel pump?

88mustangGT

New Member
Apr 6, 2003
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i went on like a 2 hour drive and my car was running like crap, it was hesitated kinda bogy, lack of smooth power. and when i got home from this trip my fuel pump was probably 4 times as loud as it has ever been. so i let my car sit for a day and i drove to work, it was fine. then last night i went to drive it on a 30 min drive and i got on it once and it detonated and feel on its face really bad.

Does this sound like a bad fuel pump or what else could it be
?
 
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The fuel pump is a good possiblity, however, to eliminate anything else from being a problem, dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

Since your car is an 88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
 
stick a pressure gauge on the schrader valve and try to set it up so you can see it while driving. check your pressure.
i also think the FP is a good bet. they get hot and take a poo. the pinging you hear also fits.
good luck.
 
the in-tank fuel pumps that are electronic slow down a bit and get louder...... but dont make a ton to make a diff in my opinion, then these pumps die, they just die....one min there fine and the next ur car wont start. but check other cheaper options first like filters, plugs ect....
 
I'm guessing maybe its your muffler bearings!, yeah when those go out the car just doesnt run right. Or it could be your muffler belt slipping gotta get the muffler belt tensioner from ford Part# FMS20396969. Nah sorry Brian saw your post and Just had to be a Smart ass. Lemme know if your gonna do your fuel pump i'll give you a hand if you need it.
 
also, as i recall, the return line dumps extra fuel on the pump, helping to cool it. when the pump is dying, it works harder and flows less, diminishing the amount of fuel being returned (to help cool it).
 
I just changed my FPR to an adjustable one, and wouldn't you know, I swear the pump sounds quieter/smoother, the car runs smoother from idle, and seems to pull harder. The old regulator seemed to run a little higher than stock pressure, maybe 1-2 pounds. I set the new pressure to 39 and went from there. I would take Hissin's advice and spend 20.00 bucks and get a FP gauge. Than take Richer's advice and check your codes. Then you go right upstairs, brush your teeth and go straight to bed young man!

Just kidding lol...sorry to seem to be so bossy-like, but until you pull codes and maybe check to see if the FP regulator is working ok, it could be anything. Pulling codes is super easy,and may help a lot.