I'm sure that I haven't been the only one to experience this, but I couldn't find anything in the search. I have been trying to finish a T-5 conversion in a 66 V-8 coupe, when I went to replace the u-joints, and install my new T-5 conversion slip yolk, I experienced problems. It appears as though ford had two different size end caps on the shaft itself for 66, one just under an inch, and one just over and inch (1.065). My shaft has the holes for the smaller caps, while my slip yolk has the larger holes. Is there a conversion joint for this or is there anything else I can do short of buying a new drive shaft? I am trying to avoid paying for a new drive shaft as with the slip joint specifically for this conversion I do not have to shorten my dive shaft, and I have plans for a 9" rearend probably around next year and I basically do not want to pay for the drive shaft twice. (P.S. this is the front U-joint, not the rear (which does require a conversion joint from the factory) and FRP U-joint, and all joints in the part book at AutoZone only convert from 1.065 to 1.125 which does not appear to be the correct application for me.)
Funny U-joint Problem
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Can you just buy one of the other u joints and switch the caps? If they fit on the u joint itself with no wobbel then I don't see why it wouldn't work. You useing the stock v-8 drive shaft? The new drive shaft I got from street or track came with the yolk and u joints and they where all 1330s and if I'm not mistaken a 57 fairlane has the same size caps as what I used so might be the bigger ones your looking for.
I already tried the buying another joint with the correct size caps, it seems that the center shaft is made different (larger) for the larger size cap. It should be the stock drive shaft, as the stock U-joint I ordered fits the drive shaft, just not the slip yolk, which is the conversion yolk from CJ Pony parts. If you look on Advance Auto Parts website, it list two different sizes for 66, the 1310's (1.065) and 1".
302 coupe
Founding Member
I got my driveshaft shortened for $30, or roughly the cost of 2 u-joints. If you can get a refund on the conversion yoke, you'll actually be dollars ahead.
I measured the from the rearend to the trans with the slip yolk installed and pulled out approx. 3/4", and it seems to be the correct length. Again, I do not wish to purchase a new drive shaft at this time as I will be installing a 351w and most likely a 9" rearend next year and will be required to shorten or buy a new drive shaft at that time. My luck though, after I find the correct U-joint it will end up being to long.
You can get a u-joint in just about any cap size and spacing you could imagine. Just measure very precisely and go to your local drivetrain shop, if they don't have the right one on the shelf they can literally make the right one for you. Should only be about $20.
I realize swap joint are common, but the 1" cap size is the hard part to find. I just tried the only shop in my area that does drive shafts, and struck out, the use the NAPA down the street from them, the one I had just come from asking about to part. All the book references to swap joints that I can find start a 1 1/16" wich is the larger of the two sizes that I need.
302 coupe
Founding Member
they should have a slide rule like thing, that will show end cap diameter, width, and clip/ring style. If they have one, and know how to read the damn thing, you should be able to find one that will work. It took me awhile to figure out how to read those things back when I was selling car parts. I had a hard time the first time I bought u-joints, mine were different size than the ones listed, maybe it was like yours, I don't remember the exact problem. The set I have in there now, that connects to my pinion flange on the 9" is a Precision u-joint, #505. The front u-joint is the original size for the car, it just wasn't listed, so I used the slide rule thing to match one up, but I don't remember the part number.
As a side note, when I switched to a T5, while I still had the 8" rear, I had the shaft shortened 3/4". When I switched to the 9" while still using the T5, the driveshaft length was still ok. And now with the C4 back in, still using the 9" rear, driveshaft length is still ok. I used the original C4 yoke in the T5 and I'm still using it now. The rear u-joint is a conversion joint to fit the pinion on the 9".
As a side note, when I switched to a T5, while I still had the 8" rear, I had the shaft shortened 3/4". When I switched to the 9" while still using the T5, the driveshaft length was still ok. And now with the C4 back in, still using the 9" rear, driveshaft length is still ok. I used the original C4 yoke in the T5 and I'm still using it now. The rear u-joint is a conversion joint to fit the pinion on the 9".
I needed a new one to connect my aluminum shaft to the 9" pinion. As a matter of fact it arived today and is sitting next to me now. It is prescision #280. From what I've been told Prescision is similar to Spicer with regards to strenght/quality, but I intend for the rear u-joint to be the weak link in the chain on purpose.
Driveshaft loops are highly advised
Driveshaft loops are highly advised
302 coupe
Founding Member
for the size they are, and for what abuse they have to endure, I have to say u-joints are some tough little cookies......driveshafts too.
Shakin66
Founding Member
302 Coupe,
Where was your drive shaft work done? Im trying to remember who to measure my new combo right now and it will have to be shortened. I am in Waycross, Ga by the way.
Where was your drive shaft work done? Im trying to remember who to measure my new combo right now and it will have to be shortened. I am in Waycross, Ga by the way.
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