Getting it all done.
- Thread starter getinaGTsoon
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WhiteDevil
New Member
Your gonna put a holley Systemax II, and a cam on a stock headed stock trannied auto?? I think maybe you should look into a converter or shift kit before you get into that stuff. Or just get some heads now and do the intake later.getinaGTsoon said:
GTJake
Founding Member
WhiteDevil said:
Exactly....the Systemax II is the kind of intake you want for a high reving 302 or a 331/347.
Jake
AznStanger3v
Active Member
1105
I AM the random post master...bow down
The best thing to do is have a plan allready for your car and thinking what would be the easiest way and less work for you later on down the road. I agree, get a shift kit and stall converter first, then start saving up for some heads and a cam and do thoes both at the same time. Then why not just wait a little longer and buy an intake to do put on too?
AznStanger3v
Active Member
read one of the stickys up top. It has a bunch of setups, times, and numbers for you. it also makes you wish you were a millionaire
with all that on a stock car?...
GTJake
Founding Member
Are you asking about everything....like the whole Sytemax H/C/I package or just the intake?
Jake
Jake
Guys he never said it was the intake, the holley systemax II is the entire kit unless you denote it as the intake. I think he ment it as the kit.
GTJake
Founding Member
I don't really think the Holley intake is that great with stock heads and cam. Paul, what do you think? I think getinaGTsoon would be better suited with an Edelbrock Performer, Trick Flow Street Heat or Cobra/GT-40 intake.
Jake
Jake
If it is in fact the intake, then I agree with everyine else in that it is a BAD choice to run it on the stock heads, especially in an AODE. It could quite possibly slow him down. I think he needs to spend some more time on researching his parts before he spends anymore money. The cam is a bad idea as well as the intake... both of those should be re-thought.
Killercanary said:
I'm not really sure what you mean by your comment guy. Your saying I'll lose power by going to a Systemax II upp/low intake ?? I'm sorry man, its just not possible.
As far as researching... I had a previous 94 convertible w/ BBK headers, BBK H-pipe, MAC CAI, pulleys, borla exhaust, BBK 75mm throttle body.... now that car facking screamed.. it was a 5spd. I raced a LT1 w/ 2 people in it (automatic), and I had 3 people in my car. From a dead start all the way to 100mph we stayed dead even. Now we all know LT1's are rated at 275hp, and have about 245 actual.
Back to the original post you made. I don't see how its possible to LOSE power by getting a bigger intake over stock. From what I've seen on this board, many people worship those silly GT40 and K&N upper/lower intake. I dont see the logic in that when you get decent heads, and have to get a Edlebrock VJ intake or Systemax II.
I have nothing but fayth since I've already done this setup one time, and I am following it through and through. Just like I did on my previous car.
If it helps any, my last car (the 94 Convertible 5-spd) ran a 11.58 in the 1000ft at the track. The track is only measured in 1000ft. That equals out to low 13's in my head. Figuring the car ran a 12.5 or so bone stock, it gained 100rwhp total over stock (200hp). Prove me wrong ?
Did you put on your flame suit before you typed? Are you an idiot by any stretch of the imagination? Your car ran 12.5 bone stock huh? Was that in the 1/8? That certainly wasn't in the quarter. Back to the post...getinaGTsoon said:
If you understood anything about velocity and airflow, you would have the slightest idea. The Holley intake is an intake for higher revving motors - you don't have a high revving motor, and you would be loosing low end torque because the velocity isn't there from idle until about 2000 RPM. Actually, that "silly" GT40 intake would make tons more streetable power and torque than that Holley would.
If you know so much, why are you on here anyway? The first thing you need to do is buy a 3000 stall speed torque converter. Call me an idiot now, but you'll thank me later. Yes, I know everything too.....
Joe
Joes95GT said:
Did you put your glasses on and read how the track is measured ? 1000 FT BUDDY. NOT 1/4 mile. one thousand foot. 1000'.... Yes, I would lose LOW END TORQUE, but as stated above.. "I will lose power"... power = hp, torque = torque. I will NOT lose power.. I WILL lose some torque, meaning.. LOWER GEARS will almost correct that. I'm NOT going to spend $200 on a used GT40, and then spend 600 on a Systemax a year down the road. that is plain stupid.
Please put on your glasses next time you read one of my posts.. GT40 =
Who ever heard of a 3/16 mile track? What happened to the last 1/16? Anyhow, your saying that your car with just exhaust ran a low 13? I, as well as many others doubt that.getinaGTsoon said:
Lets get a few things straight - you use torque on a street car to propel you, not horsepower. You use torque to pull those low 60 foot times, not horsepower. Sure, you would pick up power on the top end at about 5500, right before the shifting point, but that isn't where it's needed. It's needed from idle to 5500, not after that point. It's all about the area UNDER the curve, not the peak points. Would you rather have a torque and horsepower curve that looked like an upside down V or a flat line? The flat line will not be produced with a Systemax intake on a stock headed, stock cammed, stock convertered GT.
As for the lower gears, sure you'll make up for the low end torque, and you will also smack the rev limiter. With a free flowing intake, the car will just keep pulling and pulling and the gears will allow it to do so without sending any type of signal to the trans to tell it to shift to the next gear. A 3.73 is the maximum gear that you can run in an automatic car with a free flowing intake manifold without running a custom chip to prevent you from hitting the limiter.
The choice is yours about which manifold you want to run. The Holley is an excellent piece, it's just not for you at this stage of the game. You could always get a GT40, and have it ported down the road. The price of the manifold (used) plus the port job will be less than 500 bucks. For me it was anyway. But then again, what do I know?
Joe
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