Going Kenne Bell (again)
- Thread starter BlackVert
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Cool! I may not make quite as much HP as you beacuse mine is only 1.8L, but I do have the ported heads and the good lower intake....stanger maniac said:
BTW, welcome to the forum!
Well, I picked it up today. It is beautiful, all shiny and new looking. Completely rebuilt blower, polished SystemMax lower.
It will probably be a few days before I have pics tho, because of all the other stuff I need to do related to moving into the new house and selling the old.
- Chris
It will probably be a few days before I have pics tho, because of all the other stuff I need to do related to moving into the new house and selling the old.
- Chris
yes it was. patrick had it rebuilt and it just came back a couple of weeks ago.94GTLaserRC said:
i am finally starting to get some time to work on installing this bad boy!
i have disconnected the maf and t/b. the egr tube was really loose, probably the cause of my exhaust leak and it also explains the valve noise i was hearing. hmmmm, maybe even my vacuum leak too ...
i currently have a trick flow street heat intake, so that has to come out and the systemmax lower goes in. what kind of bolts are holding it in? i have never seen a head like it (but i don't have the most experience in the world either). sorry, i don't have pics of them right now, but i can take some if necessary.
anyone want to buy my street heat intake? i paid $400 for them (upper and lower) 1.5 years ago, i'll sell them for much less shipped anywhere in the lower 48. email me at [email protected] if interested. it will hopefully be off next weekend.
i guess i also have to take off the fuel rails and injectors before i can take off the lower intake, right?
tia for the info.
i have disconnected the maf and t/b. the egr tube was really loose, probably the cause of my exhaust leak and it also explains the valve noise i was hearing. hmmmm, maybe even my vacuum leak too ...
i currently have a trick flow street heat intake, so that has to come out and the systemmax lower goes in. what kind of bolts are holding it in? i have never seen a head like it (but i don't have the most experience in the world either). sorry, i don't have pics of them right now, but i can take some if necessary.
anyone want to buy my street heat intake? i paid $400 for them (upper and lower) 1.5 years ago, i'll sell them for much less shipped anywhere in the lower 48. email me at [email protected] if interested. it will hopefully be off next weekend.
i guess i also have to take off the fuel rails and injectors before i can take off the lower intake, right?
tia for the info.
If you are running the systemax lower don't forget you will need a spacer between the snout and pulley on the blower since the holley moves the KB back towards the firewall a little bit. If you don't the belt won't line up.
since patrick and jr have run this on their cars (both 94/95 verts), i am assuming it is already there. but i'll definately check for it just to be sure.Killercanary said:
I am still hoping for an answer to this question:
The heads on the bolts look SORT OF like what the end of a very large TORX bit might look like. About 12 points or so. Anyone know what they are called? My local AutoZone doesn't have a socket for them. I'm trying Sears today at lunch.BlackVert said:
Don 95Vert
Founding Member
You just use a 12pt socket.
Here's a couple more tips for you:
While you have the lower intake off - it is does NOT have a threaded port for the ACT in the #5 runner, drill it and tap it so you can move the ACT from the TB-MAF powerpipe to the #5 intake runner. You can also tap the KB discharge to do the same thing. Chances are your tuner will want the ACT there so it sees boost and pulls timing when things get too hot.
What MAF are you running? We always suggest that our customers use a 90mm LMAF - it's good to 450 RWHP or so and you will not get that high, plus it's OEM quality. You will need a chip for it to work right though. Astock MAF will peg - usually C&Ls and Pro-Ms give driveability problems.
Be sure you connect the fuel pressure regulator to the BOOST side of the blower and use something to keep the hose ends from blowing off - even zip ties will work. If you do not connect it to the boost side of the blower, the motor will go lean.
Use a stud on the back rear lower intake (driver's side) to connect the KB to the lower. Then use a distributor wrench to tighten the nut - otherwise it is VERY difficult to get to.
When you are putting the blower on, leave the EGR tube off, then torque the blower to the lower. If you connect the EGR tube first, it will hold the blower up slightly and you will get inaccurate torque readings and you may blow the upper/lower gasket.
Or use a block off plate on the EGR port and delete it and plug the hole in the header with a 5/8" flare cap and have it shut off in the chip. Unless of course you have smog checks. The EGR normally doesn't hurt a thing because it only works at part throttle when the motor is warm - but with a KB - it recirculates exhaust gases creating even more heat at part throttle - something a KB does quite well on its own.
When you get the blower on the car and take it to the track - with a KB you cannot hot lap it. You have to let it cool between runs - or you'll get detonation - those blowers are HUGE heat sinks and need to be cool to work well.
If you need any guidance, I'd be happy to help - I used to run a '95 Vert with a KB and I think it was probably one of the quickest 5.0 Verts on drag radials it went 11.1/123. Plus we have tuned TONS of 94-95 KB cars. Email me at [email protected] and I'll be happy to help.
Don
Here's a couple more tips for you:
While you have the lower intake off - it is does NOT have a threaded port for the ACT in the #5 runner, drill it and tap it so you can move the ACT from the TB-MAF powerpipe to the #5 intake runner. You can also tap the KB discharge to do the same thing. Chances are your tuner will want the ACT there so it sees boost and pulls timing when things get too hot.
What MAF are you running? We always suggest that our customers use a 90mm LMAF - it's good to 450 RWHP or so and you will not get that high, plus it's OEM quality. You will need a chip for it to work right though. Astock MAF will peg - usually C&Ls and Pro-Ms give driveability problems.
Be sure you connect the fuel pressure regulator to the BOOST side of the blower and use something to keep the hose ends from blowing off - even zip ties will work. If you do not connect it to the boost side of the blower, the motor will go lean.
Use a stud on the back rear lower intake (driver's side) to connect the KB to the lower. Then use a distributor wrench to tighten the nut - otherwise it is VERY difficult to get to.
When you are putting the blower on, leave the EGR tube off, then torque the blower to the lower. If you connect the EGR tube first, it will hold the blower up slightly and you will get inaccurate torque readings and you may blow the upper/lower gasket.
Or use a block off plate on the EGR port and delete it and plug the hole in the header with a 5/8" flare cap and have it shut off in the chip. Unless of course you have smog checks. The EGR normally doesn't hurt a thing because it only works at part throttle when the motor is warm - but with a KB - it recirculates exhaust gases creating even more heat at part throttle - something a KB does quite well on its own.
When you get the blower on the car and take it to the track - with a KB you cannot hot lap it. You have to let it cool between runs - or you'll get detonation - those blowers are HUGE heat sinks and need to be cool to work well.
If you need any guidance, I'd be happy to help - I used to run a '95 Vert with a KB and I think it was probably one of the quickest 5.0 Verts on drag radials it went 11.1/123. Plus we have tuned TONS of 94-95 KB cars. Email me at [email protected] and I'll be happy to help.
Don
I guess that should have been obvious, but all my sockets are 6 point, so I didn't make the connection.Don 95Vert said:
Thanks for the other info. It will really help, seeing how this is my first time doing anything as major as this. It is info like this that makes this forum so great.
I have an 80mm C&L right now, but I think I'll dump it and get a LMAF. My tuner (me with my TwEECer) will have a much easier time tuning with it than the C&L which I can't get a flow sheet for(since it is for a 4.6 1996-1998 GT, not a 5.0).
We do have emissions here, but it is a sniffer and the guy did not do a visual the last time, so I think I'll be OK without it. If I don't pass (2 years from now), I can always put the EGR back on for a few days.
I am planning to have a dedicated vac/boost line to the FPR because I read that it is really important for the FPR to see all the boost.
I'll also check to see if there is already a port for the ACT. The lower has been used for this same KB by the other owner(s), so it may have already been tapped.
I don't plan on going to the track, but I will dyno it once I think I have the tune close.
thanks.tmoss said:
i hope it is a SAE bolt, because that is all the home depot had in 12 point sockets.
NPT = National Pipe Thread - what the ACT, EGR coolant line and water temp sensors holes are sized to..........
sorry, i know that. i realize my reply was confusing.tmoss said:
the comment about the 12 point sockets was about another sub-thread (in this thread) about the bolts used to hold the intake(s) down.
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