Going To Bore 0.030 Over My 250k 96 Explorer Block And Gt40 Valve Job. Need Cam Advise Please!

Guys, I am not going to be racing or taking the car to the track. I do want a cam that sound good!

What cam is better: TFS-51403001 or the Ford Racing M-6250-E303 ?

Any ideas on how much horsepower I will gain over stock explorer cam (which is 185-197 duration at .050 lift & 0.421-0.446 with 1.6 rockers) at flywheel with either cam, carb setup, GT40 heads ?

From what I understand, GT40 heads are still weak on exhaust side so the TFS is better with longer duration and lift on exhaust side?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-51403001/overview/make/ford
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-6250-e303/overview/make/ford

For now, just going to use my GT40 heads with GT40 Drop In Valve Spring Kit from Alex Parts ($100).
http://www.alexsparts.com/sb-ford-gt40-drop-in-valve-spring-kit-hyd-roller/

Thanks

Waid
 
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Either cam is fine for your use.
As for the hp gain, that's a tough one, easier to estimate a total with intake, gt40 iron heads and the cam, which should put you somewhere in the 250-260rwhp range.
 
So you are using your eye to verify the sealing ability of a brand new valve and seat? No prussian blue, lead pencil, fluid, or vacuum? You my friend have a good eye.

Didn't see that post it was on page 1, gives me a lecture on value of a valve job (which i agree is worth money, but doesn't make the heads better than tw's) yet is eyeballing heads to determine if you need one? lol.

Only one way to see if you need a valve job, take them in to be valve jobbed.
At the same time he will put the springs on so he can check the seat pressure.

Realistically, you are either getting a valve job or you are not, there isn't much "checking".
 
Since we are on valve job topic, here is my "valve job" using lapping compound & a drill and no leak with mineral spirit!!! My valve seat width is at 0.080". Not sure if I really need a professional valve job.

What about the cam?

Waid
 

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Didn't see that post it was on page 1, gives me a lecture on value of a valve job (which i agree is worth money, but doesn't make the heads better than tw's) yet is eyeballing heads to determine if you need one? lol.

Only one way to see if you need a valve job, take them in to be valve jobbed.
At the same time he will put the springs on so he can check the seat pressure.

Realistically, you are either getting a valve job or you are not, there isn't much "checking".
You measure the spring pressure and installed height and shim them accordingly.
 
Since we are on valve job topic, here is my "valve job" using lapping compound & a drill and no leak with mineral spirit!!! My valve seat width is at 0.080". Not sure if I really need a professional valve job.

What about the cam?

Waid
Ummm..Ya..you have a single angle valve job that is essentially lapped in with the widest seat I've ever seen. It will run. Will they burn? Will they seal under pressure? I have a coin you can flip.
 
So you are using your eye to verify the sealing ability of a brand new valve and seat? No prussian blue, lead pencil, fluid, or vacuum? You my friend have a good eye.

the superflow at the shop 'sees' an almost a 20cfm difference between and out of the box summit 170 TW (most are in the mid 240s) and the same head with a real valvejob (mid to high 260s). there is a lot more to it than just sealing. just because a valve and seat seal doesnt mean it will run worth a :poo:. hell, with a TW the wrong VJ angles (or the wrong valves) will make it run like a dog. but yes, if you wanna buy a base summit TW 170 head, and buy a FAC 190 (they have a decent VJ and ferrea 6000s) or a Total Engine Airflow ported head, pull the valves and look at the difference in the seats, it is visually observable.
 
Didn't see that post it was on page 1, gives me a lecture on value of a valve job (which i agree is worth money, but doesn't make the heads better than tw's) yet is eyeballing heads to determine if you need one? lol.

Only one way to see if you need a valve job, take them in to be valve jobbed.
At the same time he will put the springs on so he can check the seat pressure.

Realistically, you are either getting a valve job or you are not, there isn't much "checking".

i guess since i can take the valves out and look at one that has beat up seats or a non existent cut i assume everyone can. funny, my boss seems to think he can look at one and tell if it looks like it needs to be freshened or not too. as far as 'checking', some seats are softer than others and ive seen heads go a season with 730lb open springs and an aggressive solid and the VJ still looked new. yet another set that have a season on them and look like they have 100k miles using sub 400lb open springs and a HR with a slow ramp rate. but hey, we are morons, even though he used to work at reher morrison. you are right. sell the gt40s and buy some summit TWs and itll run great. make sure you get the one with cheap valves, because if you think joe bob down the streets 3 angle is the same as one from someone who knows what they are doing then it wont matter. you are too smart for me bro.