Going to get a tune....

N8Dogg98

10 Year Member
Apr 4, 2005
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Some of you know I recently installed cams and new guides, tensioners, and gears. What do you think she'll put down (mods in sig). Not that the number matters but I'd really like to see 270 RWHP.

The car feels like a beast with the new cams. She comes on really strong from 3K all the way to redline. It feels like I gained a ton of mid-range torque from 3K to 4K.... I can't freaking wait to drive her after the tune as I'm sure there's plenty more torque and HP to be had with a decent tune.
 
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I'm thinking the 18x10" wheels will cost me in the neighborhood of 5-10 rwhp

Thats one of the things that would give me a hard time when I go to choose the size rims that I want... Someone told me that my 3.73 gears would be like 3.55's...:(

Btw good luck with the dyno, I have never been on one and I want to get mine tuned someday...
 
I doubt that it will make 275. I could be wrong, but I seriously doubt it. Granted dynos and weather conditions vary greatly, most full bolt on, full exhaust (long tubes/no cats), cammed, PI headed cars that I personally know only make 290-300.

You are down the cats, long tubes, and PI heads. I'm gonna say 259 rwhp, 292 rwhp.

BUT, I hope you prove me wrong. :nice:
 
I doubt that it will make 275. I could be wrong, but I seriously doubt it. Granted dynos and weather conditions vary greatly, most full bolt on, full exhaust (long tubes/no cats), cammed, PI headed cars that I personally know only make 290-300.

You are down the cats, long tubes, and PI heads. I'm gonna say 259 rwhp, 292 rwhp.

BUT, I hope you prove me wrong. :nice:

Yeah, you might be right. I think if I installed my stock 17's I'd have a much better chance... oh well, not gonna change my wheels to boost my numbers. I'm excited though... never seen a dyno in action before :nice:

Im thinking 315 rwhp ( not really but it should make you feel good)

who is tuning it hi tech?

I thought about them, but decided to go to DB Performance. I've bought stuff from Dan in the past and he used to specialize in Mustang tuning only, so I thought it would be a good place to go.

My SFC's were installed at hitech and I don't know... something about the service was kinda weird... maybe it's just that I went there at a bad time but I felt like I got the run around.
 
Le sad... My base run w/ no tuning was 225 RWHP/270 RQTQ

After he played with the AFR and timing it only went up to 237 RWHP and 281 RWTQ :( The car was run on a dyno dymanics (really was a nice dyno... has it set up for AWD as well).

Oh well, I was glad to have it done. She idles much better now and doesn't die and it seems like the car runs smoother when running through the gears.

He said I probably would have done better if I had a CAI, an o/r mid-pipe, and had 17x8" wheels instead of the monster 18x10's. It was perfect weather for it too, in fact the SAE correction value during all of the runs was between 0.989 and 1.005.
 
Le sad... My base run w/ no tuning was 225 RWHP/270 RQTQ

After he played with the AFR and timing it only went up to 237 RWHP and 281 RWTQ :( The car was run on a dyno dymanics (really was a nice dyno... has it set up for AWD as well).

Oh well, I was glad to have it done. She idles much better now and doesn't die and it seems like the car runs smoother when running through the gears.

He said I probably would have done better if I had a CAI, an o/r mid-pipe, and had 17x8" wheels instead of the monster 18x10's. It was perfect weather for it too, in fact the SAE correction value during all of the runs was between 0.989 and 1.005.

Horsepower is only a small piece of the monster machine pie, still, those numbers are not bad.
 
Yea, I remember reading some REALLY old stuff back when these 2 valves were new about camming the NPIs. Seems like I remember those exact same numbers coming from cammed NPIs.

AND, do not ever forget, a dyno is a TUNING tool, not a bragging rights tool. What really matters is the improvement at the track, or if you don't track it, how much better it feels to you. Have you/are you planning on running it at the track?

And also, can you post up the dyno sheet? Peak numbers really don't mean much. If it has an 80% powerband ratio of more than 1.5, then I already know that it's a strong feeling/running car!
 
And also, can you post up the dyno sheet? Peak numbers really don't mean much. If it has an 80% powerband ratio of more than 1.5, then I already know that it's a strong feeling/running car!

What do you mean 80% powerband ratio of more than 1.5?

The only 1/4 mile track is over 2 hours from here up in Brainerd (that I know of) and the big NHRA guys run there. Not sure if they have test and tune nights, but if they do I may go up there this summer.

I guess I was just suprised that there are some of you on here w/ 99+ Mustangs running stock cams making around 270 RWHP. I figured with the PI intake, cams and my bolt on's I'd be close to that. He also said the gears hurt overall RWHP... oh well... it was fun seeing my car run on the dyno. I took some video and I'll try to figure out how to get it on the computer and post it up later. Here's my dyno sheets... I was really suprised that my car didn't pick up more in the tune alone. I mean I gained 12 RWHP after tuning. :(

I'm really happy with the fat a** torque curve though. She feels like a beast in the midrange.

Here's the comparison baseline vs tune

Dyno1.jpg


Here's the final HP/TQ curve

Dyno2.jpg


Here's the HP and AFR curve

Dyno3.jpg


He had the AFR at 12.5:1 and it actually picked up some power when he richened it up across the board.
 
Remember how restrictive the NPI heads are. I believe 98Cobra has some monster port work done and monster NA cams and still puts down around 330rwhp, if I'm right. But he would easily beat my 380rwhp 'vert in the quarter mile.

If you gained LT's and went ORX I think you would easily see 15-35hp depending on the conditions.

But, like said before, hp and tq will only get you so far. Although you put down what a bolt on 99-04 GT does, having the powerband of cams would let your car run a strong mid to low 13 depending on tires and suspension.

Have fun with her!
 
Those are great numbers for your mods. Dyno dynamics are notorious for reading almost 10% lower than dynojets and 5% lower than mustang dynos on average- that puts you at roughly 260rwhp dynojet / 250rwhp mustang dyno so that you can compare with most of the numbers posted on here. Those are average guesses, each shop sometimes adjusts values but overall I think your numbers are very comparable to most of the bolt-on / cammed stangs on here. But numbers are just that, numbers. How the car drives and sounds are 100x more important than a benchmark number. :nice:

As everyone has been saying - long tubes would really help those cams out. An off road midpipe would net you <5hp but nothing like the long tubes. Plus I think a catted X sounds much smoother/better than the o/r. :p
 
What do you mean 80% powerband ratio of more than 1.5?

It means that it makes 80% of your peak horsepower over a certain range. That ratio is an indicator of how well the car performs overall.

Here's how you calculate it: you take 80% of your peak horsepower; then you take the uppermost rpm that it makes that power and divide it by the lowermost rpm that it makes that power.

For example, with your dyno sheet:


80% of 237 is 190. The uppermost rpm that it makes 190 horsepower is at redline (6000 rpm), and the lowermost rpm that it makes 190 horsepower is at about 3800 rpm. So your 80% powerband ratio is 6000/3800, or about 1.6. The higher the ratio the better, and anything over 1.5 is pretty good. Two cars with the same peak horsepower, but one has a powerband ratio of 1.3 and the other has one of 1.7, the car with the 1.7 powerband ratio is going to walk all over the other car. And typically speaking, the bigger powerband ratio car is much more fun to drive.

I have a very similar powerband ratio as your car, and I can very well relate to how much fun it is to drive. :nice: