My small ground that goes to the fender gets extremely hot, melting insulation kinda hot? What would cause this? My car did fine for about 1 week after putting it together and now as soon as I crank the motor over it's so hot you can't touch it. Could it be my starter drawing a ton of amps? Any help or ideas would be appreciated!
Ground wire gets HOT!!!
- Thread starter TheNoachSHO
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Resistance is your enemy. I assume you're referring to the computer ground?
*borrows pic from jrichker*
Is this the wire you're referring to? It could either have a bad ground to the inner fender, or be full of corrosion. Either of which could cause it to get hot, and if it's enough to melt the insulation, DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR until you can solve the problem. You may end up watching the car burn.
*borrows pic from jrichker*
Is this the wire you're referring to? It could either have a bad ground to the inner fender, or be full of corrosion. Either of which could cause it to get hot, and if it's enough to melt the insulation, DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR until you can solve the problem. You may end up watching the car burn.
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If it's the factory cable, a replacement may be in order. My 95 melted the terminal off the negative cable and left a nice pool of lead on top of my battery. Luckily, that's the extent of the damage it did, since there was no possibility of me stopping a fire without a fire extinguisher in my car.
As mentioned, plan on replacing the cable. Clean the place on the front of the engine block where the ground bolts down.
Also check the secondary power ground between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges.
Also check the secondary power ground between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges.
88mouse
New Member
Check your negative ground from the engine to the battery where it connects to the engine. If this gets loose, or corroded, or cut, the vehicle looks for an alternative way to chassis ground usually through smaller wires that cannot handle the current.
What will cause it to crank up intermittingly an run for 20 or 30 minutes then die and lose spark from the coil, Let it sit over night then it cranks right up
Bad/loose grounds can cause this. You really need to check all your cables...both ends. Clean them up, and reinstall nice and tight and see if that helps
I would bet money your battery Neg to engine block ground is poor
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There are several ground wires in the engine compartment, battery to block, not the timing cover, not any accessory bracket, to the block, the small wire from negative cable/post to a small screw between the battery and the solenoid, another black wire from there into a cylindrical connector then into the wire harness, on the drivers side rear of head to small screw in firewall, one in the injector harness that is usually bolted to the intake on the passenger side under the fuel pressure regulator or to the back of the passenger head. I don't know how long you have had the car but the ignition switchs are susceptible to bad connection causing the plastic connector to discolor and make for start/run problems. Not the key switch but the electrical switch under the dash on the steering column.
Mr_cad3
Member
The ground wire to the side of the engine block wiggled itself loose on my car and caused the same problem
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