has anyone raced a stock gsr?

If you can install the gears yourself.... then go for it. 3.73s FTW. I just pulled mine out and switched to 3.55s to get ready for more power than the 331 H/C/I I currently have.

Zex kits are fun... but don't get this "Just for this guy". When you win, he'll just say you cheated. Not that he won't anyway. :D
 
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I say borrow a supercharger race him beat him by 2-4 secs Wait at the end of the track when he gets there say "I thought we were going to race!" :rlaugh: :D :rlaugh:

after that day return the supercharger. Make sure he doesn't find out about the high performance alternator. ;) :D

Just my thoughts.
 
I have mac pullies...I am not a big fan of mac products.

That said, I had a charging issue and swapped the mac alt. back to the stock alt. pully and no more issues (been that way for YEARS now). Mine rusted fairly quik but I spent a good bit of time cleaning them up and painting them when I put them on the new motor. I would say get them if you can get them cheap and paint them ASAP.

March and ASP have some good pullies as well.

with 500$ and a father and brother that can help you install them yourself I would get that and pullies and bump the timing to 13-14 and be done. With these very things I ran 14.3.
 
If you can install the gears yourself.... then go for it. 3.73s FTW. I just pulled mine out and switched to 3.55s to get ready for more power than the 331 H/C/I I currently have.

Zex kits are fun... but don't get this "Just for this guy". When you win, he'll just say you cheated. Not that he won't anyway. :D

nah, i plan on racing hopefully two nights a month starting this new year. I don't want to make a all out track vehicle, but i want something that will be fun on the strip, and still be able to drive on the street.

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/iwwida.pvx?;item?item_no=ZEX-82023 1&comp=LRS

i like that kit, but at the same time, i don't like the fact that it works at open throttle.

what i would want to be able to do is basically have a cut off switch on my dash, and i would like to get one of those hurst shifters with the button on it and hook that up to the nitrous. if that kit can work like how I just described it, maybe i see what i'm going to do with my money.

the nitrous would improve my time alot more then gears and pullies and such right?
 
get an off road x pipe. its a little more money but i recommend a dr gas x pipe. i have mac pullies and had no trouble with them at all. put some 93 octane in the car, bump the timing up to 14-16 degrees, while those cai dont show much gain on the dyno is because the car is sitting still. its not gonna do its job to suck cold air while the car is sitting still. if your cats are getting clogged then your best bang for the buck will be the midpipe. i personally like dr gas cause of the sound and its a better design than the rest and a few more hp too.

if you do all that you should definatly have no problem taking that acura or just about any mild import for that matter.

couldnt tell you on the gears cause i havent done them yet but are getting some 3.73s.

I think i want to go with an H pipe, unless theres a huge horsepower difference.

from what I hear H is alot deeper and throatier, and X is alot more raw sounding.

i can see about the CAI not adding at all on the dyno, i didn't even think about that.
 
i like that kit, but at the same time, i don't like the fact that it works at open throttle.

what i would want to be able to do is basically have a cut off switch on my dash, and i would like to get one of those hurst shifters with the button on it and hook that up to the nitrous. if that kit can work like how I just described it, maybe i see what i'm going to do with my money.

the nitrous would improve my time alot more then gears and pullies and such right?

All nitrous kits operate at full throttle (except in fast n the furious) the reason for this is because the nitrous kit is jetted for wide open throttle operation. Also, the blades of the throttle body at part throttle would interfere with the flow, possibly causing pooling and a nitrous backfire.

You are welcome to do the hurst shifter button as well, just wire it in series with the WOT switch. That way, you can drive the car how you like, then when you need the juice just floor it and hit the button when your ready. Personally, I would just leave it to the WOT switch, so you could just floor the car and it would spray automatically, then let off and it would stop. Nitrous is for getting maximum power anyways, so it only makes sense to use it at WOT.

In regards to your last question, yes, nitrous will improve your time significantly more than bolt ons. You will be in the 13's with nitrous, something that a gsr will be hard pressed to touch ;) Id highly recommend it for this setup, just be safe (colder plugs, window switch, fuel pressure safety switch, dont use a dry kit on stock injectors, dont go above 100 shot.. maybe 125 but Id stick to 100, do a test run and read the plugs for detonation, run 93 octane.... quite a mouthful there but those are the main precautions)
 
you'll like the gas....you might like it so much you'll say screw the supercharger haha

there's only one thing about all power-adders though...you HAVE to make sure your bottom end is in good condition. If not...then your motor might last a couple passes and some more miles....but it'll tear it up fast.

take it to a shop and have them to a compression/leakdown test.


for what you're wanting to do...here's what I'd do. Get the pullies and bump the timing up. If you're money's in good shape...then maybe throw some 3:73s on there.

the rest of the money I'd put towards a 331/347 shortblock....that way when you finally get around to doing the blower...you won't have to worry about the bottom end.
 
get some drag radials and learn to launch
check it out my friend showed me how to launch these cars
with some nittos bring your rpm to about 3500 - 3800 rpm
then bring clutch up to right before it engages
on your launch bring up the clutch kinda quick and you will launch pretty good :)

+1, some "real" tires are your best bet... then practice using them. PRACTICE the launch...

Nitto 555Rs aren't bad if you want to use them as your daily driver tire.

Wes
 
also i would if you havent already do a full tune up with new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. h pipes and x pipes are almost about the same in power. the x pipe is gonna give you a little more power on the top end. the dr gas is the best x pipe to get because the design of it is more advanced than the rest. the crossover is much closer towards the engine than the other designs and it makes all the difference. they are worth more power than the other pipes too.
 
nah, i plan on racing hopefully two nights a month starting this new year. I don't want to make a all out track vehicle, but i want something that will be fun on the strip, and still be able to drive on the street.

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/iwwida.pvx?;item?item_no=ZEX-82023 1&comp=LRS

i like that kit, but at the same time, i don't like the fact that it works at open throttle.

what i would want to be able to do is basically have a cut off switch on my dash, and i would like to get one of those hurst shifters with the button on it and hook that up to the nitrous. if that kit can work like how I just described it, maybe i see what i'm going to do with my money.

the nitrous would improve my time alot more then gears and pullies and such right?

Trust me on this... you DO like the fact it works at WOT. I still turn my zex kit on manually as you speak of.... but it won't come on unless the car is at WOT. This is a safety measure that you NEED.

I have my switch installed in the ashtray.

stang_switchpanel.jpg
This way I can close the ashtray cover to hide all the switches.

I can't launch my car on the bottle on drag radials or street tires. But I can feather the launch, hit WOT, once the tires hook, press my thumb on the power switch and kachow! :D Nitrous hits and it's time for your body to pucker your arse up a bit.

On a stock engine (with bolt ons) I went from a 14 flat to a high 12 on the 125 shot dry kit.
 

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