Have an oil leak around oil filter

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech' started by str8stang036, Mar 1, 2009.

  1. Yea, there should be one on the bottom of the engine block, if you remove the lower coolant hose you should not need to go through the trouble of using that port.
  2. Mine leaks too. Its coming from where the block meets the oil filter adapter, not the filter. Mine has been leaking for years. I haven't changed it because it started leaking when I went to synthetic. It only leaks when I start it up. Once the car is up to normal operating temp it stops and will not leak again until the car sits and gets cold again. Not really a big deal for me.
  3. I had this problem too. Try tightening the bolt holding the oil filter adapter to the engine block. It's a allen bolt and the bolt is actually threaded on the outside and is the piece the oil filter screws on to. Try tightening this up and see if it fixes your leak
  4. After a oil change by a dealer I noticed an oil leak on an '06 GT. The dealer said they couldn't find the source, on two separate occassions. Their sister dealership found the leak to be the oil filter adapter - a $500 repair. It's a slow leak, pint every 2.5 weeks. Since I don't have another vehicle to rely on I wanted to get some intel on this fix and have a few questions to those who HAVE done the work:

    Do I have to remove the coolant hose? Is the adapter held in with regular bolts or allen bolts? A third dealership said I had to lift the engine up and remove an exhaust manifold, is this true? Aside from tools, oil, filter, and adapter, is there anything else I should have on hand before I start? Can this be finished in a day or less?

    I'm not a pro mechanic but I've kept Fiats running, so... Thanks!
  5. I have a 2003 Mach1 and this is what I found just today under my car. Could this be just as easy as replacing the gasket?

    Attached Files:

  6. Yes. The gasket is under $15 at Fordparts dot com. The site can also give you prices from your local dealer which may be even less. You'll need supplies for an oil change, gasket sealant, and anti-freeze because there might be a hose in the way. Do this as soon as possible (seriously!) because the amount of oil that comes out through there is too fast to keep up with and may cause internal damage to your engine.
  7. Much like every other forum there's a lot of questions but rarely actual answers. So I figured I should be part of the solution. I replaced the oil filter adapter gasket on a '06 GT in January 2012. It was leaking for weeks after an oil change at a dealer (doesn't matter which one - they all suck). I found the problem they didn't or didn't want to. The bitterness part ends here.

    The gasket costs $15 at Fordparts dot com or $12 if buy it online and pick it up at a dealer. The dealer will charge you $15 if you buy it there. Make sure you get 6 quarts of 5W-20, anti-freeze, a new oil filter, and a tube of gasket sealant. The gasket might come with instructions, maybe. Get whatever you need to do a standard oil change.
    1. Start by emptying the oil pan and removing the oil filter.
    2. Replace (reinstall) the oil plug once all the oil has drained.
    3. Remove the hose near the oil filter adapter to drain the coolant. Don't drink the coolant! Move the hose out of the way once it empties.
    4. Remove the oil filter adapter via 4 bolts.
    5. Clean off the old gasket from the adapter and the engine block.
    6. Apply new gasket to gasket and use the gasket sealant to hold it in place.
    7. Align the oil filter adapter with gasket to the mounting holes on the block. Tight but don't damage the bolt heads.
    8. Reconnect the coolant hose.
    9. Install the new oil filter. Do not wiggle or shake it - the oil filter and attached adapter is NOT a rattle.
    10. Refill with new oil.
    11. Refill with new anti-freeze.
    12. Drop the car and crank 'er up! Move the car to clean ground and check for leaking oil or coolant. Check it again tomorrow! (Schedule it on your myPhone or whatever.)
    If you don't fix this problem as soon as possible the bottom of your Mustang might look something like this (see below). I'm talking about oil all over the chassis and drivetrain, staining driveways, killing grass, cats and dogs sleeping together! End of the world kinda stuff. But even worse than that it can cause some damage to your engine (best observed by a clikkity-clakkity in some part of the engine bay you didn't know existed). I hope this helps.
  8. Thanks for the write up and pics. I'm sure this will be helpful to many in the future. Keep up the good work!
  9. Thanks Angel D. My 05 Mustang GT was leaking oil bad on start up and I took it to my friends at Jiffy Lube to see if we can find the source. Turns out it is the Oil Filter Adaptor. They scared the crap out of me when they said they think my Adaptor is cracked. After reading your write up and seeing the pics. It looks just like my undercarriage. I am buying the gasket now and will replace today. Saved me about 500.
  10. Ok all you Mustang lovers... Angel D was right on the money. I replaced my oil filter adaptor and no more leak. Seriously saved me some money. I followed the directions and it was a piece of cake. Solved my problem. I did not have to remove the hose for the coolant though. was too difficult. Took me about 45 mins to complete the job. Not difficult at all. If any of you get it checked, dont listen to the mechanic...check it yourself and know that you can repair this on your own and save tons of cash. Good luck everyone. Hope this helps.
  11. I'm glad you found it in time. It seems the long time it took to find and correct the same problem on my car had taken it's toll. Compression tests have found the cylinders to be very worn and there's a low but constant clanking. My hope for a world record in car mileage has been dashed.

    On the bright side, I found out that you should automatically change your spark plugs ($100) and coils ($600) at 100k miles. If you have the funds I would suggest new injectors + seals ($740), too. Though if you're not having trouble accelerating the injectors can wait another 20k miles.

    Check fordparts.com for current prices. Remember to pay for them online and pick them up at the dealer for the lowest possible price.
  12. It wasn't quite that simple for me. Now I'm the owner of hose clamp pliers. Fortunately the tool was only $35 and available locally. Vise-Grips were okay for getting the hose clamp loose but rubbish for getting it back in place. Also, the coolant was even messier than I thought it would be. Dumped around 2 gallons of coolant out. Still, it was cheaper and more fun than having the dealer do it.
    trombonedemon likes this.
  13. Is it a ***MUST**** to drain the coolant ?
  14. My 2001 GT is in the shop now, and I was just informed the oil filter adaptor where the pressure sensor screws in is cracked at the threads. Supposedly the part is $500 at the dealer. The Ford people obviously make way more money than me. I'm tempted to tell them to put it back and I'll just wrap a towel around it and trade the car in. My 2000 GT has 300k on it and has never leaked a drop - the 2001 has always been a lemon.
  15. If you don't care about getting coolant in your oil or getting oil in the coolant, then no.

    If you intent to re-use the coolant, then yes you need to drain and capture enough coolant to get the level below the oil filter adapter.
    Just wondering. Are you aware that the oil filter adapter on any Grand Marquis, Crown Vic, or Town Car (non-oil cooler version) are the same as the Romeo Mustang? There should be tons of them in the salvage yard.

    I also found an example for sale on ebay for $288


    My advice is to try the salvage yard route. The ideal motor will be one with so much damage that the whole motor can't be sold. This will be the motor that a salvage yard would be willing to part out.