having subframe connectors welded in on fri. (standard lngth)

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by 90lxwhite, Mar 6, 2013.


  1. 90lxwhite

    90lxwhite I'm kind of a She-Man

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    Well on Friday I'm having subframe connectors welded in on the ole '95 project. And guess what, they're the standard length. After researching for months the only threads I've found about the topic went something like this, "just do the full length" but I never read anywhere where someone was like, "man I did the standard length and it totally blew." Max Motor was the brand of choice for most of the folks who bough subs (full length) but were they just buying the name like the kids in the early 90's w/ Air Jordan's? Did the max motor sports really make you "run faster and jump higher" than brand X, ehh prob not. My guess is that tubular steel is tubular steel. But anyways just wondering what am I to expect w/ the standard length subs welded in? Cruising down the street will I fill something, nothing?

    take it ez out there

    mike
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  2. RIO5.0

    RIO5.0 Mustang Master

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    my subs were 48" long...you should be about the same as they have to span front to rear. Mostly in the corners is where youll see a dif. you won't be rolling out of the seat on exits anymore. Car feels much more planted...if your running 17" tires it's mucho better than the stock 16s.
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  3. 95PGTTech

    95PGTTech Member

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    Based on the amount of money you spent on them, I can almost guarantee you will feel something whether you feel something or not, that's human nature. While it is better than stock, it's not what it could be, or should be. Tubular steel is tubular steel, but its diameter, wall thickness, composition, shape, and most importantly...what areas of the chassis it ties together...can be very different.

    The two real times I have seen significant differences displayed in subframes (stock, standard, full, bolt-in, and through-floor) are:
    1. when jacking the vehicle up
    2. on the road course, especially on turn-in after extremely long braking periods

    Being that most don't do enough of #2 to feel the difference (my best description would be a feeling of disconnect between initial steering input and turn-in), jacking up the car is obvious. Lift a Fox-4 chassis by either the rear driver or passenger side on the torque box. A stock car and bolt ins or standard lengths will allow a disturbing amount of gap between the tire and the ground before lifting any other corner. Many cars will not lift the front wheel at any point. Full lengths will lift the opposing rear tire much sooner, and very well installed ones will lift the front wheel at some point. Through-floors will lift both the opposing rear and the front very soon, if not at the same time as, the tire nearest the jack point. At the extreme end, some AIX guys can lift 3 tires at IDENTICAL times because the subframes run all the way from the rear suspension pickup point (LCA front bolt) to the K member in front, are crossed perpendicularly in multiple places, and tie into the cage for additional bracing and support.

    Since you're paying someone to do this for you, I'd say you're wasting your time/money. I've seen little to no differences between the brands other than some bad fitment on some of the really cheap ones and the higher quality ones involve tying the seat mounts in which is a nice feature. About the only thing they are going to help is with your door clunk, provided they are done correctly and your car isn't bent beyond repair already. Take a look at the OEM sheetmetal where the standard would attach (front) and where a FL would attach and reconsider this decision.
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  4. 90lxwhite

    90lxwhite I'm kind of a She-Man

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    Wasting time, not really, Im off work. Wasting $ maybe some but not a boat load. But I wasn't expecting "nite and day" like most of the replies people get when they inquire about sub connects. As far as body being beyond repair she's in good shape, I'm the 2nd owner (had er since late '95) and it's never been wrecked. But anyway I went ahead and pulled the trigger and got the sfc's I mean after all according to the bagillion fourms "it's one of the 1st mods one should do to their mustang"
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  5. revhead347

    revhead347 I have face herpes.

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    I've never seen any real difference between different brands. It's nice to have ones that have the crossmembers that attach to the seat bolts. However, so long as they attach the front subframe to the rear subframe, it's all about the same. Also there is no difference between tubular or box frame; the strength is the same. You'll notice the car feels stiffer, and it doesn't wag it's tail as much when you floor it with subframes. It is a noticeable difference. Make sure whoever welds them in uses a drive on lift. They need to welded in with all four points of the car supported, preferably on the tires as with a drive on. If the car is lifted on a two post lift, the heavy engine and the heavy axle cause the car to sag on each end. The subframes then lock the car in this sagging position. Then your doors won't ever close properly again.

    Kurt
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  6. Sharad

    Sharad ALWAYS choose the V over the P!!! Wait... what? Site Sponsor

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    You can also feel the improvement from the SFCs when you pull into a driveway at an angle. Without SFCs the unibody twists and makes creaking noises. With SFCs, that goes away.
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  7. 90lxwhite

    90lxwhite I'm kind of a She-Man

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    Hey Kurt, yeah I got the ones w/ the crossmembers. One shop I was talking to that said that they do sfc's said they don't have a drive on lift they have the four point lift or whatever but when they do sfc's they use jackstands to support the axle and such. Do you think that is ok or should I go elsewhere?
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  8. revhead347

    revhead347 I have face herpes.

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    That sounds fine. So long as they have a way to support the weight on the end.

    Kurt
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