HCI No Start (Part 2)

Strype

Cuthbert catcher
Founding Member
May 11, 1999
61
35
104
Huntsvegas, AL
93 5 speed, 66K

Just installed aluminum heads, b cam, intake

The car will crank and idle briefly but will not hold an idle. It stumbles and sputters around about 500 rpm.


1) Fuel pressure is holding at 40 with the vacuum on, I think its holding the same with it off too

2) Timing is set to 10 degrees.

3) Dizzy is new and was working before the build.

4) There is still gas in the oil, I haven't changed it yet. Plugs are new and shouldn't be fouled out.

5) Rocker arms were torqued to 15 and shimmed. It almost looks as if they don't all travel up and down equally but my buddy said they looked fine.

6) Checked compression right after the build and it was holding over 120 in each cylinder.


Any ideas guys? I've checked the vacuum lines. Its holding fuel pressure. I think grey smoke is only coming out of the driver's side. It pops when it drops to 500 rpm and dies soon after. :(

Where is the main engine ground? I have a flat braided wire connected from the motor to the firewall. Also I have a secondary negative cable running from the head to the sway bar that I had installed before.

It sounds as if it's losing time or it's got a vacuum leak. Remember the car was running fine before the install.
 
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Do you know for a fact that you're getting fire at every plug? I chased something similar and wound up pulling each plug out of the head one at a time, leaving them attached to their corresponding plug wire, and watched each one for spark by grounding the body of the plug against the power steering pump while I turned the engine over. Found 2 bad plug wires that way.

If you see one that isn't sparking, swap out a plug. Still no spark, try a different wire.

Just something to try.
 
hmmm...it sounds like you may be a tooth off on the dizzy. try re-stabbing it and make sure cyl 1 is TDC and the rotor points directly to the #1 post on the cap. when i rebuilt my motor, it was doing the same thing and i was a tooth off.
 
As long as the spark plug wire going to the #1 cylinder, is on the terminal marked #1 on the cap, your timing is correct. Now, if you can't adjust to the desired timing setting due to interference with the T-stat housing, then you need to re-stab.

Repeat, as long the terminal marked #1 on the cap, has the plug wire going to the #1 cylinder AND you can adjust to your desired timing. The distributor is installed correctly.

Edit: That's strange, I can't post s-b-f tech.com threads????

Strype,

It sounds like mechanically, that everything is there. i.e proper timing, good compression, valves okay. I can't remember if you replaced/upgraded throttle bodies. Did you remove or install the TPS sensor?
 
As long as the spark plug wire going to the #1 cylinder, is on the terminal marked #1 on the cap, your timing is correct. Now, if you can't adjust to the desired timing setting due to interference with the T-stat housing, then you need to re-stab.

Repeat, as long the terminal marked #1 on the cap, has the plug wire going to the #1 cylinder AND you can adjust to your desired timing. The distributor is installed correctly.

Edit: That's strange, I can't post s-b-f tech.com threads????

Strype,

It sounds like mechanically, that everything is there. i.e proper timing, good compression, valves okay. I can't remember if you replaced/upgraded throttle bodies. Did you remove or install the TPS sensor?


I sure did... Well a buddy actually took it out of the TB. Interesting...
 
Have you checked the TPS voltage? What about the idle setting?

You might need to raise the idle using the screw on the back of the TB, then reset the TPS sensor.

You said the motor starts briefly and wont hold an idle. Can you keep it running with throttle input?
 
It will keep running with throttle input until you let it stumble and then there's no bringing it back. A little popping. Some grey smoke on one side. I swear it sounds like timing or vacuum, and the timing is dead on. The vacuum lines are plugged up.

I'll change the oil and check the voltage.
 
the TPS should have no effect on it starting or staying running even if it were disconnected. what's this about fuel in the oil? I wouldn't be running it until this is taken care of first!

WHT306 was over my house and he said the same thing. He said the TPS isn't used until acceleration. Hmm...

Definately changing the oil. I really don't see that fixing the issue but it needs to be done. Who knows, at this point I'll try anything.




SOOOOOO...

I was under the same impression as 67Coupe- That it doesn't matter where the dizzy is pointing as long as the rotor is pointing at the number 1 plug at TDC.

Anyone know for sure? I tried the dizzy placement exactly where it was before I started the build and it was like 30 degrees off if I recall... :scratch:

Again, the cam was installed straight up.
 
Question...

If the MAF is hooked up, do you still have to have the elbow piece connected to the TB for it to idle correctly? It slipped off.


Another...

Do the valve covers being off make any difference? Does it affect vacuum in any way? I had them off.
 
Question...

If the MAF is hooked up, do you still have to have the elbow piece connected to the TB for it to idle correctly? It slipped off.


Another...

Do the valve covers being off make any difference? Does it affect vacuum in any way? I had them off.



Did the intake hose slip off enough to pull air in (bypassing the MAF)? If so, yes, that would be a big reason the motor is popping, running rough.

Having the valve covers off would be a giant vacuum leak. Un-metered air is entering the intake via the PCV system.

I would fix these two before doing any additional trouble shooting.