Head Gasket Repair + Performance Goodies

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by GrandmasterK, Aug 23, 2011.


  1. GrandmasterK

    GrandmasterK Founding Member

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    Just an update on the longest headgasket repair, I finally got back to really working on this. Got the driver side value cover off. Got one of the fuel link quick connects undone but I'm struggling with the other.

    [​IMG]

    See where the quick connect tool is currently set, I just cannot get this to come apart. I'm pulling hard enough to a point I'm worried I might break / bend the lines and it isn't budging. The tool goes in (like it did with the other quick connect line) but maybe it doesn't go in far enough? It's slightly bigger than the line I successfully disconnected and the tool does seem to fit this. Any tips? Any other way to disconnect this?
     
    #21
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2013
  2. Noobz347

    Noobz347 Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor Admin Dude

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    Those are a beeoch. I prefer the plastic disconnect tools to the metal ones (I have both).

    With the metal ones, it seems like you always run out of the necessary number of hands you need to do everything. With the plastic ones, you pop it into place then have both hands to bend, pull, and pry the pieces apart.

    Try this:

    Get the metal tool to "click" under the release spring. Use a small vise grip to GENTLY hold the tool in place. Then you can use both hands to try and pull the fuel connections apart. You have to feel that tool CLICK though. That's how you know it's under the spring inside of the connection.
     
    #22
  3. k00ksta

    k00ksta Member

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    +50 to this comment!!!! I do this every time I pull the motor and it makes life so much easier. Also TAKE PICTURES.
     
    #23
  4. k00ksta

    k00ksta Member

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    You should not need to pull the quick connects on your fuel rails .. just take the 2 bolts off the fuel rails on EACH side of the motor and pull the vacuum line off the FPR (Fuel pressure regulator) and try to pull the rails aside for a head gasket job.

    Pull the plug wires and the dizzy cap off as well to get them out of the way.
     
    #24
  5. GrandmasterK

    GrandmasterK Founding Member

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    That'd be nice if I don't have to do that, I'm struggling right now to get them off. Spent more time today with no luck.

    How do I disconnect the fuel line from the injectors then? They sit ontop of them and it appears I have to either take the fuel lines off, disconnect the fuel lines from the injectors, or remove the injectors.
     
    #25
  6. mikestang63

    mikestang63 Mustang Master

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    Now if it were me, I would disconnect the two fuel lines. Yes they can be a PITA but it's easier and cleaner. If you want to leave them attached, after you remove the upper intake unscrew the 4 bolts that hold the fuel rail to the lower intake and then wiggle all 8 injectors out of the top of the fuel rail, leaving the injectors in the lower intake.
    Plan on replacing the O rings for the top of all the injectors as insurance and inspect for any broken pintle caps.
     
    #26
    stykthyn likes this.
  7. GrandmasterK

    GrandmasterK Founding Member

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    I bought the cheaper plastic quick connect tools and was able to get the quick connect off in about 20 seconds. Much better than the at least half hour I struggled with the metal tool. Managed to get the fuel rails off and the other valve cover. Got most of the bolts off the lower intake but needed to take a break for the night.

    Is it worth getting some better fuel injectors now while I have them out? The stock are 19 lbs? To save you re-reading, I'm adding GT40x cylinder heads and the GT40 upper / lower intake.

    Any tips on getting the heads off? Should I be taking the intake off and then the heads or vice versa?

    [​IMG]
     
    #27
  8. 7991LXnSHO

    7991LXnSHO Well-Known Member

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    Valve covers, lower intake, then heads. The heads can not stay connected to the intake and come apart right. And pull the dist. first like jrichker says.
     
    #28
  9. mikestang63

    mikestang63 Mustang Master

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    Just some general observations and certainly not all inclusive. ( Especially after 3 jack n cokes)

    First thing is to get a good Chilton or All Data manual if you don't have one. Second, take pictures as you are disassembling. Get some zip lock bags and put all the intake, head, valve cover, etc. bolts in a bag and mark the bag with a marker. Then, you need to pull the distributor- first find TDC and mark the position of the rotor on the inside of the cap with a marker and make a reference line so you can line it up with #1 when you reinstall it.. Remove the lower intake- make sure all the hoses and connectors are undone. Eight. Unplug the alternator power and D connector and remove the alternator. If you still have the smog pump you can remove the hose off the back and then remove the alt/smog pump bracket with the pump as a unit. Then unbolt the A/C compressor but leave the lines connected- just lay the compressor on the side. Then you can unbolt the P/S bracket with the P/S pump attached. Then unbolt the headers and pull the headers back a little. If you have the steel thermactor hose still hooked up, unscrew the clamp holding the rubber hose to the metal tube coming off the back of the heads.
    Then loosen up the rockers but leave them on, remove the pushrods and if you plan on keeping them stick them in an old pizza box or other piece of cardboard standing up, and mark the number of the cylinder next to each pushrod for when you reassemble. . Then you should be able to unbolt the heads with the rockers intact so you can transfer the rockers to the new heads without messing up which rocker goes where. Again if you still have the thermactor hoses going into the back of each head just pull up on the head a little to move it forward so you have more room to put a wrench on the nut holding the tube into the back of the head. Once the tube is off, remove the head.

    Your 19 lbers should be fine but if you plan on growing the setup and can get it cheap, a matched set of 24's and MAF won't hurt.
     
    #29
  10. GrandmasterK

    GrandmasterK Founding Member

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    Any tips on getting stuck hoses apart? I've got a couple that just won't come apart. Can't seem to twist them and they don't pull apart.
     
    #30
  11. mikestang63

    mikestang63 Mustang Master

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    If you are talking about either the little bypass hoses on the water pump or to the heater core, if they have been on for a while your best bet is to cut them with a razor lengthwise where they are connected to the pipe/tube and just remove them that way, vs. risk damaging the heater core or water pump tubes.

    Iit also helps to spray a little PB blaster in the crack between the hose and the fitting and with a vise grip or channel lock , gently work on rotating the hose off.
     
    #31
  12. 7991LXnSHO

    7991LXnSHO Well-Known Member

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    Please specify which hoses. I promise not to be a smart alec and say loosen the clamp first.:doh:
    If the hoses are rubber over metal for antifreeze, there is a tool like a bent back flat screwdriver to help go around the perimeter to free them. The problem is the hoses get stretched out then. And at that point you will want to replace them anyway, so you can gently cut and peel them back. Just do not score the metal with the cutting tool or you may make a little path for a leak.

    As far as the fuel lines, (which I hope you have already gotten apart) a little twist can help once the spring ring is out of the way. The spring ring is either out of the way or not, and it is either easy or really not easy for some of us to get the silly high pressure connections apart. But you might be surprised how far the pipes are in each other.

    If they are the emissions hoses, rubber over plastic, a little WD-40 can help there, and it leaves a cleaner finish on the hoses after you are done wiping it up. I've never had it hurt plastic either.

    If it is a rubber vac hose, just cut and replace or at least inspect it carefully and make it a little shorter. How many times have we been told about weird idle symptoms from a vac. leak? Those hoses are cheap and not worth messing with if you have it all marked.

    You did not ask, BUT I have to. DID YOU USE MASKING TAPE and label where every line and connector goes back, right????????? :bang: It makes life much simpler.
     
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  13. GrandmasterK

    GrandmasterK Founding Member

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    The hoses I cannot get apart are connected to the black metal rails that have a bracket bolting them to the lower intake. They aren't the fuel lines (those are silver) but I'm not sure exactly what their purpose is. I'll try a little WD40 and also look into finding / cost of new hoses. If the hoses are easy to come by, I may just go that route. And I did label them and did disconnect the clamps :) Thanks.

    I removed the lower intake, roller rocks and push rods and am only removing the bolts (and hoses that are kinda in the way too) away from getting the cylinder heads out. Feels good to be this close finally. Anything I should look for / inspect once I get everything apart? I don't want to start putting it back together if there are more issues that will cause me to have to take it back apart again.

    I did notice this inside of the lower intake where it connected previously to where the thermostat is. Any idea what that is? I had a blown head gasket which is why the oil is all brown and maybe this is related.

    [​IMG]
     
    #33
  14. 2000xp8

    2000xp8 Mustang Master

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    With gt40x heads goto 24's with the matching meter, pro m, pmas etc.

    My worry would be how long you drove it with a blown head gasket. Most stock engines i've seen that blew the head gasket were pretty much useless when put back together. Would suck to put it back together and have it devour oil.
     
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  15. jAEded

    jAEded Active Member

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    Sometimes for me with stuck hoses I try and get a small jewelers screwdriver or flat-head between the hose and the tube and break it loose all way around. Generally I'm not saving the hoses if they are so old they're that stuck. I just use pliers and twist the hose around the tube, but it usually trashes the hose.

    The black tubes are for your heater core. It bypasses coolant around your thermostat and through your heater core. Make sure and keep or replace the restrictor that is inside the larger hose at the firewall.

    The deposits in the pic are just mineral buildup. Service sheet says change the coolant every 30K miles or 36 months. Whichever comes first. Make sure to use de-ionized or distilled water. It really helps prevent mineral buildup.
     
    #35
  16. jAEded

    jAEded Active Member

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    Lol.

    Still good info.
     
    #36
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2013
  17. stykthyn

    stykthyn Commander of the snuggie cultists

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    x1billion. Almost watched my car burn down because I tore an O-ring.
     
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  18. jAEded

    jAEded Active Member

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    Are you doing the 58cc gt-40x or 64cc?

    64cc you're good to go with the roller rockers.

    58cc you need the M-6529-A302 shim kit for the pedestal roller rockers. For mine with a 0.04" head gasket and stock deck height I only needed the thick shims. I had one valve that ended up needing a custom shim on the #7 cylinder, but the thick shims worked for all the rest.
     
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  19. GrandmasterK

    GrandmasterK Founding Member

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    Thankfully I've got the 64cc model, no need for buying more. I'll look around for 24lb injectors and replace if I can find a good price on them.

    Any more elaboration on this so I know what I can do to check / avoid this situation? I didn't drive much and it was never so bad that I had to stop driving or had overheating issues, it was just some white smoke if I was hard on the car and oil that was the wrong color. I had a roommate in college that blew the head gasket in his car and it smoked like crazy and he could drive maybe 10 minutes before it overheated... mine was really minor in comparison to that.

    Additionally is there is anything else I can do to clean out the old oil? I didn't want to go as far as disassembling / removing the pistons but there will obviously still be bad oil left in there too.
     
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  20. jAEded

    jAEded Active Member

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    I got mine here - http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/

    If you check out ebay you can find a reman set pretty cheap flow matched and w\ warranty.

    The 24# in the 93 Cobra are Ford#: F1Te-D5A, Bosch#: 0280150947 or Motorcraft#: CM-4721

    High Impedance EV1 Body
     
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