Head Gasket Trouble - Pull Engine
- Thread starter stang89bidges
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Oh, I see what your getting at. It's definitely 55mm that was already determined. My question is the physical piece of metal the stock piece from Ford in 1989 or is it aftermarket. Can you tell by just looking at it?
It appears to me it's stock by its design and casting. Usually aftermarket MAF's are "purdy" and don't have all that crazy mounting casted in it and are more of a modern smooth look. But I simply have never seen a stock unit(if mine isn't stock that is) to compare. So far, everything on this car when I bought it has been pure stock except for bolt on mods.
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Do the jy upgrade..... go grab a 94-95 unit and swap it out sensor and all, it's plug and play 70mm.
What benefits will I get with 19lb injectors?
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The injector tune is in the ecu. You will have one less restriction in the intake path. It will only flow as much air as the smallest point.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
sorry- you NEVER swap out sensors. They are calibrated specific to the housing. I agree on swapping out the 94-95 MAF- the entire unit. It is 70MM vs the 58MM for the fox body. You will need to either fabricate or purchase a flange to bolt up to the stock Fox Boy intake tube as the 94-95 unit bolts on to one side vs slip fit.
I looked up pictures of the maf setup last night and I see the flange. That sux. I will keep doing research on it. I have 70mm tb, upgraded heads and intake, and a vortech v2. I'm just worried with my 19lbers if it will even make a diff.
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Oh it will make a big difference. The vortec is trying to pull air thru a small hole. Open her up some and you might need bigger injectors.
Are you tuned or running an fmu?
Are you tuned or running an fmu?
I figured at this point my starvation was the injectors but if you think I will gain more ponies(or even better throttle response) then I'm game for the upgrade
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The starvation is injectors . Instead of waisting the money why not use it toward buying a pro m maf for the injectors you plan on eventually switching too and using the car the way it is until then
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Custom Headlight Harness
While I was installing my new guages in the a pillar and upgrading the LED lights in my dash cluster I also decided to do the Fog Light Switch Fix. Then as I did research on this I found that the headlights are also under powered due to the factory harness setup. So, I decided to rewire it.
Parts list from SummitRacing.com:
I ended up getting the wrong pigtail above for the relays but it was just wire color and not awg size so I ended up using them anyways. Worked great. I also needed a second relay and fuse kit for the fog lights, cuz I rewired that too while I was in there. I already had purchased a cheaper relay and in-line 12awg fuse from autozone. They are working fine right now but the parts from summitracing I got are far superior!!
I ended up tearing out the factory headlight harness and completely replacing it with upgraded wires, new split braid sleeving(awesome stuff btw) and also split up the wiring from the alternator and headlights and rerouted them completely.
Here you can see the factory wiring exposed.
Drivers side wires/colors/connectors
Here you can see 2 split sets of wires. The split red wires with black stripe are the high beam power leads. The split green wires with black stripe are the low beam power leads.
Connectors.
Red=fog
Blue=high/low beam
Green=Turn signal/parking lamp
Tiel=Parking lamp
Here are all my supplies. I upgraded all power and ground wires to 12awg.
Factory harness had stamped/solder the black grounds and the brown parking lamps together at the drivers side.
Grounds
Parking lamps
I soldered almost every wire I could. Others got butt connectors. All got heat shrink.
I rerouted the new headlight harness through the upper frame rail. Here you can see my passenger side end result. I bought some fabric tape to use after I finished up with the sleeving. Stuff is awesome. I ended up using the factory location for the ground wires for now. I will eventually, some day, tear the whole car down and hide all wiring.
Here you can see my drivers side with both relays wired and connected.
If you look on the fender you can see my new sealed fuse holder on left, and on the right the fog light relay is mounted.
On the inside.
Headlight switch was melting.
Here is new vs old fog light connector I bought. You can see the little plastic clip in the old connector was broke so it didn't hold the wire inside the plug.
New plug:
For the fog light fix you cut the blue wire off behind the connector. Then you splice it into one of the brown wires on the headlight switch so you can power them on when the parking lamps are on.
I used a blue quick splice.
A year ago or so I did the 3G alternator upgrade. I decided to clean those wires up and reroute them as well.
5 wires on bottom are the factory headlight wires(heading to passenger side) and the top 3 are the alternator wires.
While I was installing my new guages in the a pillar and upgrading the LED lights in my dash cluster I also decided to do the Fog Light Switch Fix. Then as I did research on this I found that the headlights are also under powered due to the factory harness setup. So, I decided to rewire it.
Parts list from SummitRacing.com:
I ended up getting the wrong pigtail above for the relays but it was just wire color and not awg size so I ended up using them anyways. Worked great. I also needed a second relay and fuse kit for the fog lights, cuz I rewired that too while I was in there. I already had purchased a cheaper relay and in-line 12awg fuse from autozone. They are working fine right now but the parts from summitracing I got are far superior!!
I ended up tearing out the factory headlight harness and completely replacing it with upgraded wires, new split braid sleeving(awesome stuff btw) and also split up the wiring from the alternator and headlights and rerouted them completely.
Here you can see the factory wiring exposed.
Drivers side wires/colors/connectors
Here you can see 2 split sets of wires. The split red wires with black stripe are the high beam power leads. The split green wires with black stripe are the low beam power leads.
Connectors.
Red=fog
Blue=high/low beam
Green=Turn signal/parking lamp
Tiel=Parking lamp
Here are all my supplies. I upgraded all power and ground wires to 12awg.
Factory harness had stamped/solder the black grounds and the brown parking lamps together at the drivers side.
Grounds
Parking lamps
I soldered almost every wire I could. Others got butt connectors. All got heat shrink.
I rerouted the new headlight harness through the upper frame rail. Here you can see my passenger side end result. I bought some fabric tape to use after I finished up with the sleeving. Stuff is awesome. I ended up using the factory location for the ground wires for now. I will eventually, some day, tear the whole car down and hide all wiring.
Here you can see my drivers side with both relays wired and connected.
If you look on the fender you can see my new sealed fuse holder on left, and on the right the fog light relay is mounted.
On the inside.
Headlight switch was melting.
Here is new vs old fog light connector I bought. You can see the little plastic clip in the old connector was broke so it didn't hold the wire inside the plug.
New plug:
For the fog light fix you cut the blue wire off behind the connector. Then you splice it into one of the brown wires on the headlight switch so you can power them on when the parking lamps are on.
I used a blue quick splice.
A year ago or so I did the 3G alternator upgrade. I decided to clean those wires up and reroute them as well.
5 wires on bottom are the factory headlight wires(heading to passenger side) and the top 3 are the alternator wires.
Last edited:
More pictures:
Parking and turn signal connector
Fog light
Outside parking lamp
Low/High beam connector
Parking and turn signal connector
Fog light
Outside parking lamp
Low/High beam connector
I wish I had before pictures. Over the holidays here it rained for 3 days straight so I hit the pole barn and decided to use an old polisher/buffer my parents had. My 89 still rocks it's original paint and with my newer fiberglass hood you could really see the difference from the old vs new. The hood was matched to the original paint maybe 5 or 6 years ago.
The original paint was starting to oxidize and had a terrible white haze over it. I wash and wax the car quite often but it still oxidized. Plus, everytime i wax the roof the white applicator pad turned completely black. So I figured my clear coat was completely gone. Little did I know that's not what that means. Thin maybe but not gone.
So I bought a clay bar, good polish and wax, and went to town on the old girl.
The clay bar took the over spray right off from a previous whoops. It also took all the road grime and contaminates out of the paint that I didn't even know where there. Mostly on the front of vehicle and top of vehicle.
Then I started polishing. Bam! The oxidation came right out. I was pumped. I had no idea it was that easy.
Followed up with a good yellow wax and that buffer really turned this old paint job into a nice shine again. Looks new again. From 2 feet, not 50.
It's still old and has its issues but overall I am impressed!
Shines so good all you can see is the barn roof!
Here you can see where I need a high speed polisher for where the water sits in the spoiler when it's out in rain. And that isn't very often.
Not a great pic from indoors but you get the idea of how shiny and nice it turned out.
The original paint was starting to oxidize and had a terrible white haze over it. I wash and wax the car quite often but it still oxidized. Plus, everytime i wax the roof the white applicator pad turned completely black. So I figured my clear coat was completely gone. Little did I know that's not what that means. Thin maybe but not gone.
So I bought a clay bar, good polish and wax, and went to town on the old girl.
The clay bar took the over spray right off from a previous whoops. It also took all the road grime and contaminates out of the paint that I didn't even know where there. Mostly on the front of vehicle and top of vehicle.
Then I started polishing. Bam! The oxidation came right out. I was pumped. I had no idea it was that easy.
Followed up with a good yellow wax and that buffer really turned this old paint job into a nice shine again. Looks new again. From 2 feet, not 50.
It's still old and has its issues but overall I am impressed!
Shines so good all you can see is the barn roof!
Here you can see where I need a high speed polisher for where the water sits in the spoiler when it's out in rain. And that isn't very often.
Not a great pic from indoors but you get the idea of how shiny and nice it turned out.
Very nice! My car is done in semi gloss I wanted that old school "hot rod" look. Little did I know it's a PITA to keep up, every month or so it gets a scrub from a clay bar then liquid wax. If I don't it turns flat.
I wish I had before pictures. Over the holidays here it rained for 3 days straight so I hit the pole barn and decided to use an old polisher/buffer my parents had. My 89 still rocks it's original paint and with my newer fiberglass hood you could really see the difference from the old vs new. The hood was matched to the original paint maybe 5 or 6 years ago.
The original paint was starting to oxidize and had a terrible white haze over it. I wash and wax the car quite often but it still oxidized. Plus, everytime i wax the roof the white applicator pad turned completely black. So I figured my clear coat was completely gone. Little did I know that's not what that means. Thin maybe but not gone.
So I bought a clay bar, good polish and wax, and went to town on the old girl.
The clay bar took the over spray right off from a previous whoops. It also took all the road grime and contaminates out of the paint that I didn't even know where there. Mostly on the front of vehicle and top of vehicle.
Then I started polishing. Bam! The oxidation came right out. I was pumped. I had no idea it was that easy.
Followed up with a good yellow wax and that buffer really turned this old paint job into a nice shine again. Looks new again. From 2 feet, not 50.
It's still old and has its issues but overall I am impressed!
Shines so good all you can see is the barn roof!
Here you can see where I need a high speed polisher for where the water sits in the spoiler when it's out in rain. And that isn't very often.
Not a great pic from indoors but you get the idea of how shiny and nice it turned out.
Looks good. Gotta love black. Always looks amazing when clean. my first mustang was black. I loved it but what a pita to keep looking good lol.
That is a good looking hood brotha, looks like a picture worth framing and hanging in the garage
Well my first part that wore out after the rebuild is the cheap autozone felpro exhaust manifold gaskets(MS90000).
I ended up buying Percy's reusable aluminum exhaust gaskets.
They are double layered.
I found the problem with the old ones!
Passenger side and driver side both.
Used a die grinder to shave the metal back to my heads. Used old gaskets for template.
No more leaky.
I ended up buying Percy's reusable aluminum exhaust gaskets.
They are double layered.
I found the problem with the old ones!
Passenger side and driver side both.
Used a die grinder to shave the metal back to my heads. Used old gaskets for template.
No more leaky.
For now anyway. Mine started leaking a few weeks after I installed them.... now I just use high temp silicone
