Head Swap Build Thread: And other Improvements

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by Venom351R, Sep 9, 2010.

  1. How does that work?? You need the one part of the puller to "pull" the pulley off.
     
  2. I got the bracket off this morning w/ the pump still on it. Almost have the other head off, finishing my subway then its coming off.

    With out taking the pulley off its still bolted to the bracket b/c the bolts are behind the pulley that hold in on the bracket and I tried but you cant get the pulley off w/ out a puller so I just undid the lines to the pump and unbolted the whole bracket off the head and took it off
     
  3. How do I get the driver side head off with head studs? When I pull the head up to take it off the block it keeps hitting the brake booster before its cleared all the studs.


    NINJA EDIT: Never mind I got it but it took some serious muscling the head around to get it to clear the booster. The passenger side was so easy, headers, head...but the drivers side was a total **** w/ everything
     
  4. Project day 6 update


    Phase 1 is complete which consisted of the complete tear down and take off of everything that was being replaced or improved.

    002-49.jpg

    003-45.jpg


    Phase 2 will consist of taking anything left on the accessory brackets and cleaning them up and cleaning up the engine block as best as I can.

    Also does anyone know what this is for? It was connected to the back of the heads and was not sure what its for exactly.....

    014-9.jpg
     
  5. That's part of the thermactor(air pump) system. Actually it looks like a Delete set-up for the air pump. Normally they are a T and the open part runs to the air pump. It pumps fresh air into the exhaust ports of the head.
     
  6. That tube pumps air in from the smog pump. There should have been a tube coming off the side of it at one time to go to the smog pump.

    Kurt
     
  7. I have no more smog at all. That tube in the picture is all that was there. Was not connected to anything else. So I take it that it does not need to go back on the new heads when I get them?
     
  8. I would assume 205's won't have the passages for the tube to connect to. It's a option on AFR 185's.
     
  9. Yup that's the heat crossover pipe. I don't recall mine being any different then that. I still have all the smog junk so I'll have to take a look
     
  10. Thats odd... you just have to cut the ends off and put them on backward with some RTV :shrug:
     
  11. So you're saying cut them off the tube and put them on the opposite side they are supposed to be on, backwards? I have been wanting to delete my air pump for a while now. I may try this during winter storage.
     
  12. The Trick Flow 205s shouldn't have the air passages in the heads. Most heads that size don't. I'm not 100% on that, but I'm pretty sure. Call Trick Flow and find out. If there are no passages in the heads, then you can just leave it off, nothing else required.

    Kurt
     
  13. Thanks Kurt, if it has the passages I'll just put that back on, if not then I wont.


    Another thing is should I treat the cylinder walls that are exposed and the top of the pistons with anything at all to prevent any rust or are they fine in the open air like that? I wont be putting it back together until this spring.
     
  14. IIRC you can get them with or without the holes. I think I sprayed my truck cyl. every so often with WD-40. I forget I have a really ****ty memory
     
  15. You don't need to put it back on there. You can do one of two things. You can get the block out plugs from Ford and screw them in. Or you can get bolts that screw into the back of the head. I think they are 5/8" coarse thread. You can get them from Ace hardware. No reason to put that ugly tube back in. I'm pretty sure those heads have the passages blocked anyway.

    I've had mixed results spraying WD-40 in the cylinder walls. It doesn't spray evenly, and you can get rust spots. I recommend taking a regular household dish sponge, dipping it in oil, and rubbing down the cylinder walls until there is a good coat of oil in there. That's guaranteed to keep the rust away.

    Kurt
     
  16. Sounds good Kurt, I'll do that today, Have to do some work out there and remove the side skirts anyway. Will be doing a swap plus some cash for a set of these...


    cid__IMG00194.jpg
     
  17. Keep in mind with the side exhaust. If you have sub frame connectors under your car it's hard to use a side exhaust. Not impossible, but it does cut into your ground clearance. That's what's kept me from doing it all these years.

    Kurt
     
  18. The side exhaust was already on before I started this project and the exhaust is really really low. I also have Roush SFC which are the round style and they hang a few inch's off from the frame rails. Ive been considering having those removed and getting a set of the MM full length ones b/c they hug much closer to the bottom of the car.

    I was cleaning up the engine block today on the front end and was wondering if its worth taping off everything and spray painting the front of the block just to make it look better. Thoughts????

    007-14.jpg
     
  19. now is your chance to make it look good by the dist. i would paint it now while you can get to it
     
  20. Yeah, I would go ahead and paint it. A block is not hard to paint. You can almost free hand it. A set of through floor sub frame connectors would solve any questionable exhaust problems. Not that I'm willing to do that kind of work myself. But to some it's worth it.

    Kurt