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Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by Venom351R, Sep 9, 2010.
I take it those type are different then the standard MM full length ones?
yes you need to cut your floor. Custom ones usually go into the back frame rail and sit in the front rail. thats my plan this winter
I'll take some pics of the ones I have now and how much they come off the bottom of the floor and if you guys think Id be ok with MM SFC b/c I know they sit flush with the bottom.
My exhaust exits looking as though it should, but the pipes under the car are quite low. I cant get an accurate pic of how low they are b/c the headers are off obviously and the mid pipe is laying down on the floor which pulls the exhaust down a bit more then what it really is. I'm ok with running no SFC for awhile VS having severe clearance issues.
How much of an under taking is it to get the through the floor SFC as far as the install
i saw a car yesterday on the hot rod drag week that had oval pipe it was an sn95 with side exhaust
Must be from the mid west where its all flat
Can it be done? Yes I just have to be really careful when driving most roads that I go on its fine w/ no issues but its always that unknown thing such as going over a bridge where the concrete and tar come back together sometimes its not a smooth transition and thats when really bad things can happen if your carrying a lot of speed
You can get some square pipe, that cuts it down to about 2 inches. But two inches is still a lot of ground clearance to lose.
Id hate to not run any subframes at all but maybe I'll have better luck w/ the MM ones. I tried to take a few pics today of mine but they came out like crap. I'll have to jack it up to get better ones.
I did get the front of the block painted today though.
Before with dirt grease and grime
that looks real good and will look even better, when you get it put back together, nice job
Thanks, first time I painted the front of a block so Im happy with how it came out. Actually this whole project is first time doing a lot of things. I'm trying to get as much done while the weather permits it so I figured now would be a good time to do some paint. Im tempted now to tape it all off again and do the water pump but it has some yellowing type stuff incrusted onto it. Im not sure what its from but it does not wipe off have to scrape it off w/ a screw driver so at this point if I wanted to do anything with it it would probably be better to take it off and send it w/ the other brackets to get powder coated.
I know Im going with trickflow 205's but whats the difference between these two heads to have a price difference of $800?
Trick Flow Specialties TFS-5141004-C02 - Trick Flow® Twisted Wedge® Track Heat® 205 Cylinder Heads for Small Block Ford - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Trick Flow Specialties TFS-51400004-C02 - Trick Flow® Twisted Wedge® 205 Cylinder Heads for Small Block Ford - Overview - SummitRacing.com
I'm not real sure on all the differences, but a couple I noticed looking at those links....The track heat heads don't have the heat crossover, and they're sold individually so they're $1000 each.
oh yeah one is a pair and the other is not. Not much of a price in difference between both. I noticed that both are CNC machined, does that pretty much mean the ports have work done to them more so then standard out of the box heads would?
they are the same heads one price is for each the other is for a pair , cheaper to get as a pair i guess
some of the nut sizes are different not sure what that matters. If you look i think the rocker arm nut is different sized and something else was too I believe. I was under the impression the track ones are more "racing" heads.
Both heads have the same part #'s so the only difference in them should be how they are sold.
IIRC Jay Allen is set up as a dealer for TEA who cnc's these heads for trickflow. I think he can also get them with a few other things done to them. I know that Jay sells them with better hardware than comes on them from summit and usually his prices are very competitive with summit. He can also mill them some to bring your compression up some.
TFS 205's are some pretty big heads with port sizes nearly on par with afr 225's.
If that's the case, I'd talk to Jay Allen. Better hardware is worth every penny. A head of that magnitude really needs to be customized for the cam you are running. Once you start getting to heads that big, you need to stop thinking of "out of the box."
and thats exactly why I want to figure this out now so I know what I'm looking at price wise. As it stands with the AFR's being sold and my old manapack mufflers I'm looking at 960 to put towards the Trickflows so I just need to save up whats left on them. The other thing is that I only want to do this once. I want a set of heads im 100% happy with and not wish I had done anything different thats also why I am wondering if I should do any port work on them at all or if it would help me out to have additional port work done on 205CNC heads.
I was thinking about the side exhaust today and I was wondering if this makes much sense.
If I were to go to a muffler shop and have them cut the exhaust pipe before it bends to exit under the car and have it extend further down and exit out at the same spot but just make it so the bend is further down so that it goes around the end of the subframe. I know the bend would be at more of an angle then it is now for the exit under car but still not as much bend as piping has going over a rear axle...thoughts?
My other concern is PVC with the TFS heads. I know the only way to know for sure is to check with clay but what if I do that and there is not enough clearance then what??? I have notched pistons but I'm not sure if they are notched enough or in the right area.
That's a funny looking piston. Looks like a super dish piston to me. What kind of compression is that suposed to be?
As far as I know its 9:0:1 its deff not high compression considering my dyno numbers.
Yeah that's different then mine and AFAIK mine are stock.
Well I believe you have 2 options in if there is clearence issues
1. Replace the pistons with ones that will work
2. Cut yours to the needed clearence. There's a name for it but I forget what it's called. A buddy from another forum did this to his engine he got for his TA. I think he has a site or 2 on how to do it I can see and get links for you if you'd like