Headlights, Fusebox, Battery, And Wiring Issues And Questions

[JordanB21]

Decided to make this easier to read
Problems List:
1.Headlights don't work-Plan on reverting back to glass ones when I get out to the pick n' pull.
2.Air from what sounds like the brakes-when I press it the noise changes sound in pitch
3.Cut wires and crimps that need to be reconnected where they belong.
4.Replace upper dash portion-any special way to remove the headlight and hazard buttons?
5. Put back together Steering Column
6.Interior work, clean carpets, replace arm rest, replace center console latch, replace shifter handle, replace leather shifter bezel, replace shifter bezel, replace ashtray door.
7.Replace rims with non-chrome, non wrecked rims.
8.Replace hood-pin kit that is rusted.
9. Repair exterior door handle and lock
10. Get keys made for the lock
11. Remove aftermarket alarm system.
12.Upgrade alternator to 3G-BOUGHT IT, need to install
13.Hook up stock horn to aftermarket steering wheel (part of inspection)
14. Fix horn

My long term goal is 300 to 310 horse power, with the cars weight i'll be able to beat out the cute 2012/13 automatic v6 camaros, mustangs, and chargers the spoiled kids get at school
Also aiming for low 13s to high 12s in the quarter mile.

The idea of this thread is now geared toward cleaning up the car and making it street legal and a bit less hood-rat like.
Thanks, Jordan.

 

[JordanB21]

Video one

Exhaust, the video doesn't do it too much justice.

 

[JordanB21]

So to anyone who is reading (me myself and I), the alarm system was partially connected, I started yanking cords out. It's pretty easy to tell what belongs and what doesn't

The headlights don't work more than likely because they were somehow connected to the alarm system, that'll be the hardest part of making this car street legal.

The low voltage issue might be because of under drive pulleys, the pulleys are shiny silver so I figured they weren't stock. Now I'm debating new-old pulleys or a 3G alternator.

There are two red horns on the passenger side with a metal relay box or sorts, this doesn't belong right? So I can just rip that out? or is it stock, looks a little got-ti to be stock.
I also have to pick up a new upper dash since there was a spot for an Led drilled into it, most of the wires in that area were already cut for the security system so it's easy pulling.

One Last Thing! Please, if anyone could tell me, there's a single purple or pink looking cord that was connected to the security system harness that leads all the way to the back of the car with a lot of other wires, what is this and where does the cut end by the steering column go?

 

[88LX5.Oh]

A 3G alternator is an upgrade any fox owner should do. Ever catch yourself on a cold rainy day/night? Wipers, head lights, blower going? That's a good voltage drop right there. 3G will take care of that.

 

[tca7291]

My best advice would be go through what that alarm system is hacked into, and undo all of it. As far as those "horns and relay box" it ain't stock. Probably the alarm horns. Remove them also, once you got all that cut/hack job out of there, you can start putting everything back the way it should be.

 

[JordanB21]

The alternator upgrade is a bit a way, aiming for street legal and passing inspection first, which is why I need the horn working. The button doesn't do anything on the steering wheel.

Thanks tca, can't wait to take a bit to them and get them gone. Ugly red things.

 

[tca7291]

The factory horn, and the headlights are probably part of the alarm problem, lights flashing, and horn blowing is generally part of an alarm system. There are probably wires cut and spliced into the alarm system that feed those things, and interrupting the factory function of the accessories.

 

[JordanB21]

Spent a good hour removing more wires and got those horns and relay out. Everything left related to this alarm system is out, finally.
The hard part comes now, I'm a monkey with wire cutters, and there's a ton of splices all throughout the ignition, and to the left behind the side dash panel.

Oh and the purple cord I believe was the door ringer. Not sure where that's suppose to go, since the module for the door beeping does work.

The ignition cylinder that I bought since the last one's sensor was cut won't let me take the key out, like it wont turn the last notch back and is in postion II constantly.It does allow me to start it up by turning forward, but won't release.
--Took a look at it, I can take it out, but I have to turn it to the electronics on position to remove it, so it seems the ignition is turned a click too far forward possibly? Im at a loss

Atleast the engine bay looks a bit cleaner.

 

[jrichker]

The horn circuit has a button that supplies ground, a relay that uses the button to switch the horns on and off, and two horns. The relay reduces the current that the horn button has to carry. This makes it possible to use a small and simple switch and slip ring on the steering wheel.

Note that the horn ground is built into the horn mount bracket, so the horn must be mounted on metal with a good connection to the car body.

The horns typically develop an internal short to ground, which causes the fuses to blow.

The horns are located under the car on the driver's side, forward of the front wheel well. Disconnect BOTH horns, replace the fuse: if the fuse blows immediately, the problem is most likely in the cigar lighter circuit. If not, then press the horn button on the steering wheel: if the fuse blows the problem is in the wiring between the horn relay and the horn. If doesn't blow when you press the horn button, connect ONE of the horns and try again. If it still doesn't blow the fuse, connect the other horn. Chances are that the first horn you re-connect will blow the fuse. Whatever horn blows the fuse at this point has an internal short and is trash. Time for a trip to the junkyard...

Horn does not honk, but does not blow fuses:
Run a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the horn input connector: the horn should honk. If it does, then your problems are in the other parts of the circuit. If it does not honk, replace the horn.
Use a test light or voltmeter and connect one lead to the horn wire under the fender and the other to ground. Push the horn button: you should see 12 volts or the test light will turn on. If it does not, check the fuse. If the fuse is good, check the relay.

The relay will click and honk the horn if you short the Yellow/Lt Green wire to ground. If you have a test light connected in place of the horn it will light. If it does not activate the horn or test light, look for 12 volts at the Lt blue/white wire. No 12 volts at the Lt blue/white wire, you have fuse or wiring problems in the circuit that supplies the 12 volts to the relay. Good 12 volts at the Lt blue/white wire and the Yellow/Lt Green wire shorted to ground and no honk or flash of the test light, replace the relay.

The rubber foam usually deteriorates over time and that is what makes the horn switch fail. Take it apart and replace the foam with some from packaging material. A little creative engineering may be required, but you can do it.

 

[JordanB21]

The fuse is good, but i'll double check and tomorrow afternoon when it begins to cool down i'll take a swing at what you're saying for testing the horns and circuit, I also might have to take off the steering wheel and making sure it's all connected. But for now it's 2 a.m. and not much I can do
Update: tested the horns. both bueno, wish they were both bad, easier fix
and the headlights and horns were taped all together at one crossing section, some shop must've installed the headlights and security system at the same time and put them together.
That purple wire I was asking about earlier was also not meant to be there, it was spliced into the black door chime wire.

On another note, I found a guy down in houston who is interested in trading his turbine rims for my chrome cobra Rs (one of them is cracked bad which is why I want different ones, plus it would also cause it to fail inspection), so if the deal goes smooth i'll have 150 more dollars and new classier rims that make my car look a little less ghetto.

Update question: over by each headlight and by the passenger side firewall there are connectors that aren't in use, they look like a household plug.
pics!

 

[JordanB21]

hey, where is the relay for the horn real quick? I think the problem might be there

 

[jrichker]

See item C187 for the horn relay.

 

[JordanB21]

I had already found it, it's on the back of the chime box for the doors next to another relay under the driver side, i'm not sure why the diagram and that are different, I know some of the older foxbodys had the relay under the passenger/center like that diagram. But thanks, saving the diagram for future reference.

I ran out of time to finish continuity checks between the fuse to relay, horn to horn button and such. I think the relay might be bad but didn't finish testing it all. I've identified all the wires (thank yah veryusefulstuff.com!), from the horn to blue wire to the relay to the yellow/green to the horn, which the horn button was disconnected but that wasn't it.

and pulled out the radio today, whoever installed the unit did a terrible job, half the wires are capped and half aren't connected. Only two speakers work, hoping it's from that. The radio antenna also is cut.

 

[JordanB21]

Took me a bit to get back to the car.
Blue wire is from the horn to the relay
Blue/white wire is from the battery to the fusebox to the relay
Yellow/Green wire is from the relay to the horn button
I read at the relay:
Blue/white to Blue wire 17.4 M ohms
Blue/white to Yellow/Green 62 ohms
Blue to Yellow/Green O.L.
This would mean the relay is bad because between the horn and horn button in the relay I couldn't get a reading, right?
Reference: http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangLights-Horn.gif

 

[jrichker]

Took me a bit to get back to the car.
Blue wire is from the horn to the relay
Blue/white wire is from the battery to the fusebox to the relay
Yellow/Green wire is from the relay to the horn button
I read at the relay:
Blue/white to Blue wire 17.4 M ohms
Blue/white to Yellow/Green 62 ohms
Blue to Yellow/Green O.L.
This would mean the relay is bad because between the horn and horn button in the relay I couldn't get a reading, right?
Reference: http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangLights-Horn.gif

Remove the horn fuse.
Set the multimeter to low ohms, connect one probe to a solid ground.
Put the other meter lead on the green wire at the horn relay.
Push the horn button, you should see less than 4 ohms. More than that and you have some bad connections or broken wiring.

 

[JordanB21]

FOUND IT. Finally. Thank you so much for your help, but it turns out, after further tearing into the steering wheel the paper thin band of wires were cut and aren't connected. Probably because of the aftermarket steering wheel the guy didn't hook it up properly. I need to look up now how to remove this piece so I can get to the band of wires to hook it up to the two black ones since I dont think it is.
The two bands when clicked together makes the circuit complete, not the button since it isn't hooked up. kinda silly looking back at all the testing and following wires.

The band of wires is on the lower right spot of the circle, and the tan piece and metal piece are connected which I need to remove to really get to the wires.

 

[JordanB21]

So. i have simple question, if I take a wire from the relay to the hub and connect it to the black wire that is meant to be hot and then contact it to the horn button with the ground would that work?

Here's the diagram I edited to show what I mean, why would or wouldn't this work?
I've read about the 90 to 93 mustangs having issues with horns not going to work with grant wheels because of airbags. But wouldn't this provide a fix? just a shot in the dark

 

[JordanB21]

I did basiclly what I said above ^
Except i added a toggle switch, on the side of my dash, the previous owner as part of his security system had an led installed on the dash, I popped it out, dremeled the hole bigger, popped in the toggle switch and hooked up in a hot minute. Works great, plus all the kiddies at school are going to think I have nitrous (you guys really don't understand how ill-informed teenagers are about cars, "a loud exhaust must mean a fast car!").
I went with a toggle switch over a button because all the buttons at advance auto jutted out by an inch, ugliest thing ever.
This just leaves the headlights, and rims I'm buying from this guy. and then.. street ready!
crappy picture quality picture:

 

[JordanB21]

horn went out again, need to look into it, fixed the headlights and first set of rims got here, take a look!
The guy sent two in one box and two in another, bad thing is that one box got here today, the others got sent to kansas-___- now they're expected to arrive when im out of town on the 14th.

Here's one of them, they're basiclly new tires, with the color markings, and smell to match. 300 dollars.