-My 2¢...
---If you can, scrap that POS, stamped steel, FailSafe or stant T-stat and get a RobertShaw, the only name in T-stats I will ever use, for as long as I can find em. Maybe the one you purchased is under warranty. If so, return it and put the $ toward a good one.
---Match your old one up to a Mr. Gasket even. Even if you have to ignore a rubber adapter that I never saw on a T-stat until around 1990. What was known as RobertShaw was owner by Cooper last I knew - but prior to that, stant owned them and did a terrible job, basically used the RS name to sell their own junk T-stats. Now MG has the design and functionality of the RS. Don't know exactly how that happened. Don't know if Cooper is part of Mr. Gasket or if they all fall into the Tenneco or Dana Corp family when we get to the root. All I know is that they have been tested and they work exactly like RSs did.
---RobertShaw was well known in the racing industry for response/accuracy and reliability (they're also the top name in commercial & residential HVAC controls). The T-stats operate (in reality they "close") at the temperature they are rated for and return to default (open) when they reach 6° below that specified temp. They do not stick part way, they do not open part way, close part way, they are either opened or closed and most of all, most importantly, they have the correct "bell" to fit the housing to properly direct flow to bypass and allow a thermostat to do what it is meant to do...
... which is, keep the water in the block until it has heated up enough to warm the oil, so the oil will become thin enough to do its job properly.
Mr. Gasket T-stats that cross to the 2.3L
4365 = 195°
4364 = 180°
4363 = 160°
---OEM was 192° (413-192) and you can often find them on eBay for dirt cheap, but T-stats have been known to go bad after 20+ years of shelf life, so your choice on if you want to buy cheap or pay the price of one Mr. Gasket from What-oZone's rack. When buying RS, stay away from the style that resembles the Stants and stick with the style that looks like the Mr. Gasket
link to Amazon.com images, I am too tired to upload pics right now.
Part number break down for RS:
prefix = style/series
suffix = temp
413-160 (if available) was 160°
413-180 (if available) was 180°
413-192 was 192°
413-195 (if available) would have been 195°
-Note that stant is still using the 413 prefix.
---Screw the 50/50 mix suggestion and even a 50/50 mix when coolant & water comes in separate bottles. Even if some $20 from city hall, cracker-jack ASE licensed mechanic says it's "recommended" and mix your coolant at least 60/40 (I run 70/30 and did when I was in N. Michigan facing -20° ambient winter temps and 100+° summers without gelling issues). If you want to effectively combat corrosion, you have to combat the acids. To combat the acids, you need a better mix than 50/50 cause out of the bottle, antifreeze's composition is just barely above what's needed to protect an engine from internal corrosion. Never use tap water, always use distilled. It costs about 80¢ from Wal-Mart and ShellZone Concentrated Antifreeze runs about $12 at a local FlyingJ Truck Stop or similar. Ethelyn Glycol of course, so you don't have to worry about mixing the wrong red with your Propylene Glycol red crap that GM came out with cause they were skimping on material to make gaskets & seals.
---While you have the T-stat out, heater hose off, disconnect the other hose and with no more than around 20#, reverse flush the core with your garden hose, then direct flow the natural direction.
---I would also ask if you're certain the water pump is pumping and if you burped the bottom hose.
---I'm tired and goin' to catch a power nap. Hope you all had a great Turkey day and got to spend some time with those you love or doing what you love doing.
---If you can, scrap that POS, stamped steel, FailSafe or stant T-stat and get a RobertShaw, the only name in T-stats I will ever use, for as long as I can find em. Maybe the one you purchased is under warranty. If so, return it and put the $ toward a good one.
---Match your old one up to a Mr. Gasket even. Even if you have to ignore a rubber adapter that I never saw on a T-stat until around 1990. What was known as RobertShaw was owner by Cooper last I knew - but prior to that, stant owned them and did a terrible job, basically used the RS name to sell their own junk T-stats. Now MG has the design and functionality of the RS. Don't know exactly how that happened. Don't know if Cooper is part of Mr. Gasket or if they all fall into the Tenneco or Dana Corp family when we get to the root. All I know is that they have been tested and they work exactly like RSs did.
---RobertShaw was well known in the racing industry for response/accuracy and reliability (they're also the top name in commercial & residential HVAC controls). The T-stats operate (in reality they "close") at the temperature they are rated for and return to default (open) when they reach 6° below that specified temp. They do not stick part way, they do not open part way, close part way, they are either opened or closed and most of all, most importantly, they have the correct "bell" to fit the housing to properly direct flow to bypass and allow a thermostat to do what it is meant to do...
... which is, keep the water in the block until it has heated up enough to warm the oil, so the oil will become thin enough to do its job properly.
Mr. Gasket T-stats that cross to the 2.3L
4365 = 195°
4364 = 180°
4363 = 160°
---OEM was 192° (413-192) and you can often find them on eBay for dirt cheap, but T-stats have been known to go bad after 20+ years of shelf life, so your choice on if you want to buy cheap or pay the price of one Mr. Gasket from What-oZone's rack. When buying RS, stay away from the style that resembles the Stants and stick with the style that looks like the Mr. Gasket
link to Amazon.com images, I am too tired to upload pics right now.
Part number break down for RS:
prefix = style/series
suffix = temp
413-160 (if available) was 160°
413-180 (if available) was 180°
413-192 was 192°
413-195 (if available) would have been 195°
-Note that stant is still using the 413 prefix.
---Screw the 50/50 mix suggestion and even a 50/50 mix when coolant & water comes in separate bottles. Even if some $20 from city hall, cracker-jack ASE licensed mechanic says it's "recommended" and mix your coolant at least 60/40 (I run 70/30 and did when I was in N. Michigan facing -20° ambient winter temps and 100+° summers without gelling issues). If you want to effectively combat corrosion, you have to combat the acids. To combat the acids, you need a better mix than 50/50 cause out of the bottle, antifreeze's composition is just barely above what's needed to protect an engine from internal corrosion. Never use tap water, always use distilled. It costs about 80¢ from Wal-Mart and ShellZone Concentrated Antifreeze runs about $12 at a local FlyingJ Truck Stop or similar. Ethelyn Glycol of course, so you don't have to worry about mixing the wrong red with your Propylene Glycol red crap that GM came out with cause they were skimping on material to make gaskets & seals.
---While you have the T-stat out, heater hose off, disconnect the other hose and with no more than around 20#, reverse flush the core with your garden hose, then direct flow the natural direction.
---I would also ask if you're certain the water pump is pumping and if you burped the bottom hose.
---I'm tired and goin' to catch a power nap. Hope you all had a great Turkey day and got to spend some time with those you love or doing what you love doing.
:Zip2:
