heater hose replacement

lostin67

New Member
Aug 9, 2005
3
0
0
I have a 67 coupe and need to change the heater hoses. It looks like I need to drop the heater to get at the hoses inside the car. How do I drop that heater? Are the 5 nuts under the hood around the heater fan motor all that holds that heater in? I looked under the dash and can't see any other way its held in place. Any help would be great. This is one of the last things I need to do for the car to be finished. Thanks
 
  • Sponsors (?)


On my 66 there a four nuts around the blower motor on the firewall, and that's all that holds it in place - there is no way (on a 66) that you could get the casing clips back on, if you could get them off in the first place insitu.

Take all the heater control cables off, remove the nuts and drop the whole assembly down - you'll have to watch the defroster ducts as they're made of paper/cardboard and will be pretty fragile after 40 years.

As the best haynes manuals say "reassembly is the reverse of this procedure."

Bear in mind that this is advice on a 67 from a guy with a 66...
 
On my 67 coupe, I opened up the heater box (clips) under the dash. I removed the glove box to have better access. It's possible to change just the hoses without removing the heater box, but the core only cost a few bucks, so decided to change everything at the same time. I'm too old to be crawling under the dash all the time. The hoses just route through the firewall into the heater core and might be a bear to remove just the hoses. You may end up cutting the hoses near the firewall and having to take out the core anyway. When reinstalling the hoses, I lubed them with petroleum jelly to help slide through the firewall.
 
Besides the 4 nuts on the firewall holding the blower motor, there's also an 'L" tab above the flapper door and the horizontal part of the 'L' is screwed to the bottom side of the dash. Most people don't bother with this and use only the 4 blower motor nuts, as limey66 says.
 
Thanks guys for the info. I don't see how you guys got those clips off.
I did it. If anyone is interested how I did it here goes. The four nuts around the fan motor under the hood have to be removed. Also there is one screw inside under the dash near the fresh air door. That screw has to come out. There are two cables that need to be undone, very easy. cut the hoses near the firewall under the hood and detach the cardboard plenum( mine fell apart so it came out real easy)
and pull out and drop the heater box. Replace the hoses and put the heater box back in. It helps to have two people for this as one holds the box in place from inside the car and one puts the nuts on under the hood. I did it by myself, holding the box to the firewall with a screw driver as a prop. Took me around two hours not bad for someone who didn't have a clue how to do this.
 
How much smaller is the room to take out the heater box assembly on a 67 than it is for a 70. Yeah, placing the heater box back into the car is a real pain in da ass. I didnt bother bolting the top half first, instead I just had both halfs clipped together and then I bolted it back in.
 
since your already taking the core out,why dont you get a piece of tubing and cut a couple of lengths,put some hose over the ends onto the heater core and stick the tubes through the firewall so next time you dont have to pull the core out to get the hoses off.it worked for me.
 
iskwezm said:
since your already taking the core out,why dont you get a piece of tubing and cut a couple of lengths,put some hose over the ends onto the heater core and stick the tubes through the firewall so next time you dont have to pull the core out to get the hoses off.it worked for me.

Nice idea. I have my old heater core out of my 67, (which BTW came out by just undoing some clips on the cardboard box under the dash after cutting the old hoses off) and it still looks good, so was thinking of taking it to a radiator shop to have the two tubes extended through the firewall, but then thought I'd have to install some grommets so the metal tubes wouldn't bounce around and wear themselves out on the firewall. I guess it's still possible, but the tubes would be really close to the intake manifold. Oh well, until next time..................